rear suspension

[biomedtechguy]

That looks like a nice kit.

Agreed! I'm very interested, but

I like it, but I "think" a weld in would be exponentially more effective than bolt in.
What has your experience been?

 

[pro-streeter]

I like it, but I "think" a weld in would be exponentially more effective than bolt in.
What has your experience been?

Weld in would create a more ridged overall structure IMO. That said when jacking the car without anything you can see the doors move in the openings. After installing the Unlawful design frame ties the doors stayed in place with no visible movement. Both have advantages in functionality and appearance. I guess it depends on ones personal use of the car. Full race weld in. Bolt in street/race.

 

[biomedtechguy]

After installing the Unlawful design frame ties the doors stayed in place with no visible movement.

That is a good indication!
Thanks!

 

[383man]

My car is a very streetable street / strip car. I am getting more serious about bracket racing though, so when I needed new rear suspension a few years back, I went straight to the full Calvert setup. The really nice thing about it is you can go from full race suspension, to a nice soft street feel in about 5 minutes with a few simple adjustments. It may be more than I really need, but I’ve never regretted the purchase, I can tell you that.

I don't blame you as most serious racers will use the Cal Trac setup over SS springs because they will 60 ft better. But for me where my car is mostly street and my budget is tight I could not see me spending the money. But if I was a serious racer and had the cash I would for sure run Cal Tracs. Ron

 

[Plymouthrocks]

Just to reiterate what Budnicks said I had a 440 on the dyno with HP manifolds and the torque was 461 then Randy said “ I have some headers why don’t we the them out”. The torque went to 518.

 

[ksurfer2]

Just to reiterate what Budnicks said I had a 440 on the dyno with HP manifolds and the torque was 461 then Randy said “ I have some headers why don’t we the them out”. The torque went to 518.

There is no doubt I am loosing out on a lot of power by keeping the stock HP manifolds. My motor build was never about building a max power engine, it was about building a motor that LOOKED stock, but made gobs of power. That was my goal, that is what I achieved. I want to continue with that theme in making the car perform better within the confines of stock appearing. If some day I want to do something different, I'll put on headers, replace the 6bbl with FI, tub the rear end....hell, maybe I'll cage the whole thing and build a race car. But until then, I want a stock appearing car that performs to the maximum that the stock look allows.

 

[LemonWedge]

Looks pretty standard to me. I used the MP bolt in units, but welded them in at each end. On my “to-do” list is to stitch them to the floor with 1/8” steel plate mid-point in the bar.

 

[Mike Gaines]

After looking at the cost of a full CalTracks setup, and not having to "keep" leaf springs for any reason, I am going to get the Gerst or RMS triangulated rear suspension system.
I'm leaving the old tech behind, despite how well some of you have done with variations of it.
At appx $1850-$2k it's about 25-30% more than the full boat CalTracks setup.
The triangulated setup is more in line with my "retromod" direction I'm moving in.

If I were doing it all over again I would NOT have spent $1225 on my complete Cal Trac Setup because I have now OUTGROWN the Cal Trac setup...I now need to install a Ladder Bar Setup. I have priced out at JEG'S Adjustable Ladder Bar KIT for $446.00 (made for Jeg by Chassus/Eng) which is complete except for shocks. JEGS has Strange Single Adjustable Coil Over Shocks, complete with Hyper Coil Springs for around $470 a Pair....that is less than $1000 for the complete setup. I talked to the Chris Alston Sales Manager at the March Meet this weekend and he confirmed to me that with Ladder Bars the "double adjustable" shocks were NOT necessary.....On 4 links he said YES, but not for Ladder Bars. My local Fabrication shop wants me to put his big decal on my fender and if I did that he would do 100% install for only $500, including 4 corner weighing and setup. A real bargain. He has done many, many, ladder bar and 3-link setups.
Any takers for my complete Cal Trac Setup for $800 plus the ride.
Cal Trac Bars, Cal Trac Mono-leaf springs, Cal Trac 9-way Adjustable RR shocks plus Cal Trac 90/10 front shocks.
I went 10.04 and 10.06 on my last 2 runs with this setup.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Mike Gaines
I have made my decision to go with the triangulated rear suspension system, and I have had forum members with cars whose performance is outstanding who have 100% encouraged me as they have the same setup I want to get...
Having said that, I greatly appreciate your input because of your experience.
What can you say about the triangulated rear suspension system cars that you have seen or talked with the owners that you can pass along?
Thanks

 

[Cojohnso1]

I have had decent success with SS springs with a snubber. There are decent adjustable shocks if you need some stiffness control. Keeps a more stock appearance. And spools energy far better than stock springs to help get out of the hole. Which is important if running smaller tire. I run on my 10 sec Duster with a 10.5" slick. If you someday are looking to go under 9.90? Then lots of things change.

 

[Mike Gaines]

Mike Gaines
I have made my decision to go with the triangulated rear suspension system, and I have had forum members with cars whose performance is outstanding who have 100% encouraged me as they have the same setup I want to get...
Having said that, I greatly appreciate your input because of your experience.
What can you say about the triangulated rear suspension system cars that you have seen or talked with the owners that you can pass along?
Thanks

I know no one with Gerst, etc type suspensions.