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Rear wheel stud

HemiItIs, thanks for posting the pixs. suspension components are not my forte, but it appears that by replacing the perches, you get to re-align or center the rear end. My other question is let's assume i can center the rear with 1/2 inch on either side, when 'under load' or peeling out, do you know if the rear-end will move out of alignment where the tires might still hit the fender...or is that something you have to just try and see what happens kinda thing. hope that makes sense.
 
Also you get to set the pinion angle.IMO Leaf spring cars should be 4 to 5* nose down.

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me thinks it may be altogether easier if i just get slightly narrower tires. alignment/fender rolling/cutting appears to be a slippery slope.
 
HemiItIs, thanks for posting the pixs. suspension components are not my forte, but it appears that by replacing the perches, you get to re-align or center the rear end. My other question is let's assume i can center the rear with 1/2 inch on either side, when 'under load' or peeling out, do you know if the rear-end will move out of alignment where the tires might still hit the fender...or is that something you have to just try and see what happens kinda thing. hope that makes sense.

When you center the rear and over 1/2 inch on the inside tire yo tub,it might rub a little like on a driveway apron where the rear is uneven.

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me thinks it may be altogether easier if i just get slightly narrower tires. alignment/fender rolling/cutting appears to be a slippery slope.

Considering everything, this might be the way to go.
Now if you have the ability to cut the perches, determine the correct placement of them then weld them to the housing, I'd say go for it. Or you might start by measuring what you have to determine whether the factory screwed up, or a previous owner did some work that put things out of whack. If the perches aren't where they should be maybe someone nearby has a spare housing with correct spacing of the perches that you could purchase then switch your components over to.
Of course maybe something is up with the unibody itself.
I have switched positioning of perches on rear ends in the past on a rod or two and it went well, but if you don't get things set up right and properly welded in you can have problems.
Just some things to think about.
 
How about selling those wheels and buying some with a 1/2" more back spacing to move the wheel/tire in further, providing you have clearance to the springs. Seems like a way easier solution to me...
 
hmm, i think i maxed out on the backspacing for these wheels. i'll have to check, but that's certainly a good suggestion. wheels would be cheaper than tires and i like the look of these tires.
 
Speaking of back spacing and such, what size wheels and tires do you have now? Maybe you posted that and I missed it.
If it's just a matter of going with wheels with more back spacing definitely look into it.
 
I did not post wheel/tire info:
Mags: 15x8 w/4.5 Backspacing
Tires: P255/60-15

MAGS.PNG TYRE.PNG
 
Forgot to mention these are going on a 1966 Dodge Coronet 500.
 
Forgot to mention these are going on a 1966 Dodge Coronet 500.

I was wondering about that, because I run 255/60-15 tires on the rear of a '68 and '69 Coronet and have 3" between the tire sidewall and the wheel well trim.
The '66 Coronet is pretty tight in that area.
 
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