Rear wheel stud

[Gilach]

i'm in the process of replacing the drivers side rear wheel studs. the problem is that the replacement studs i obtained from napa seem too large to be able to seat themselves into the hub. i have ground them down to taper them so that they might lock into the groves, but to no avail. i'm wondering if:

1. anyone can suggest a source that has better replacement studs for the rear wheels.
2. would it makes sense to pull out the hub, then i could hammer in the studs...not sure if this is a viable option, ie i don't know how involved that job would be.

thanks in advance.

best, Paul.

 

[oldbee]

Gil's has pound an old one out & try to match up with new is the best way. Haven't done it myself for years but I wouldn't do any grinding to make one fit. The easiest install is pop the axles & hammer in, but you could use a sacrificial nut/washers with a good nut & pull the stud into axle if you don't want to pull the axles.

 

[Gilach]

thanks for the insight. yes, i've tried pulling grinding it, pulling it in, heating it up and such but no dice. i need only do one side, and i know that the stud will fit because i've knocked it in from the outside just to see that it will go in.

i'll do a search on how to pull the hub. i'm assuming i'll need to undo the centerpiece, there's probably a tool for that as i see the two notched, see attached.

 

[coloradodave]

No! Don't hammer and chisel anything. As you turn the axle (the round disc) you'll see nuts accessible through the larger hole in the 'disc'. Use a socket and extension to remove those nuts. The axle will slide straight out of the housing. If it's stuck, put a couple of bolts in from behind the 'disc' and bolt your brake drum loosely on backwards and use it as a slide hammer to shock the axle free. Good luck.

 

[oldbee]

If you put a stud in already, pitch it. One time use, it gets deformed. Slide hammer will pop axle right out after you take off the 4 retaining nuts. What yr. diff are we talking? You'll probably have to reset the axle end play. We can help with that.

 

[beanhead]

That Hub you are pointing to in your picture, is your axle flange.. it's the end of the axle shaft, all one big glorious piece.. you can't separate it, do as the other guys are saying you will need to remove the entire axle shaft if you want to get to the backside of that disk to easily to install your new wheel studs... the way you are describing trying to remove that hub, it doesn't work that way the axle shaft is retained in the housing buy a plate with four bolt as mentioned above

 

[oldbee]

Just hope the heat didn't travel down to the seal/bearing area.

 

[oldbee]

Just hope the heat didn't travel down to the seal/bearing area.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Should be 1/2 inch-20

 

[oldbee]

"Hemi" is right but there's more than 1 thickness, shaft length, etc. that they list. Due diligence is required.Been there, done that.

 

[oldbee]

Here's the end play adjustment, if needed.8 3/4 diff.

 

[Gilach]

ok, so I see the four bolts and can easily access them....i'm reading the axle shaft end play...it mentions a 'dial indicator'....not sure what that is...do i need that to re-set the play? i'll yank the bolts and shaft now.

 

[oldbee]

Before you go crazy- what size/type is diff?????

 

[Fran Blacker]

If it's an 8.75 or a dana 60 there are 5 nuts to remove before you take out axle.

 

[Gilach]

let me check....

 

[Gilach]

5 bolts

 

[Gilach]

i'm pretty sure its a dana

 

[oldbee]

We need more info- are there any bolts on the rear cover of the diff itself! I think you need to figure out what diff you have first. The picture I sent is for a 8-3/4 diff. Not a Dana,9-1/4 or anything else w/o further checking.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Post a picture of back of the diff.

 

[oldbee]

Definitely with a pic. With iPhone it's super easy(hey I can do it, anyone can).