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Rear window gasket

DWinTX

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Location
North Texas
I have a 65 Coronet 4 door that had some severe rust through on the top of the Dutchman panel. I have repaired it but had to remove the rear window to do it.

I'm wondering what your thoughts or experiences are on reinstalling this yourself, versus taking it to a glass company. I suppose if you have done a windshield it would be similar. Is it too risky? This back glass is hard to find and expensive if I break it.

If you've done it before, what types of sealer(s) did you use. The gasket has to be glued to the window frame and to the glass, correct? Do you use the same sealer for both?
 
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Neighbor....I can put you in touch with the right people in North Dallas that can do this for you at your home. It is worth the additional cost and they will be doing mine in a couple months or so....Price to do front and rear and install trim for my gtx was quoted 400 I think. I have both front and rear glass and front gasket and they bring the rest.

PM me and I will send you the contact info
 
MoparNation74, PM is sent. Thanks.

I probably will let the glass guys do it. I had read somewhere that glass companies nowadays don't do many installs with gaskets since modern cars install with sealant only. Because of that some didn't want to mess with it for fear of breakage. But if MoparNation's guy will come out and do it, that's what I'd prefer.
 
Two years ago, I opted for new rubber install regarding the front windshield (using a professional installer). Make sure your installer uses a thread sealant on all trim clip screws, to ensure you don't have leaks at these points later on. Concerning the rear window install, I opted for the new sealant vs the original gasket method. I was given a long song and dance explanation, that the new sealant created a much stronger bond between the window and body, that in the event of a roll over, helps to maintain the body integrity and also prevents the rear window from popping out so easily, as is often the case when using the older style rubber seals. In addition, your insurance company, may, in the advent of later serious damage claims, attributed to the window flying out, have a problem, should you use rubber today, when stronger bonding materials were available to you, during the vehicle's resto. Just sayin, you might want to check with your insurance company, before deciding one way or the other. Also, if using the new 'liquid' sealant, be sure the tip of your sealant tube is custom cut with a "V" shape to create a triangular bead, that should be laid upon the inner cleaned and properly prepped edge of your rear window, immediately prior to install. The channel should also be properly cleaned and prepped, immediately prior to install. Pre alignment of the rear window over opening is critical, as dropping the window into place in error and needing to move it (up/down/left or right) after making contact with the body opening, can be a disaster. Rubber alignment blocks, are required at the bottom corners of the channel, to ensure that, given the weight of the rear window, it does not slide downward to the very bottom of the channel, during the subsequent curing process of your liquid bonding material. Once pressing into place, you may have the false impression, that the window has been set to the correct depth, to best accommodate your later molding fitment. Several hours after installing the window upon liquid sealant, you may discover, the window has settled deeper into the channel, than you had anticipated. If so, your moldings, may not come into complete contact with the glass when completely dry. As you can see, there are many issues, and for these reasons, window installs are best done by a professional. Yes, there may be alternate methods, other than those described above, that professionals prefer to use. What ever works best. Good luck and take care :)
 
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