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Removing Clutch Pedal Assist Spring - '64 Belvedere

Husker

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I recently purchased a '64 Belvedere that has a diaphragm style clutch. The clutch engages at the same time as the clutch assist spring is at max resistance....makes it really hard to drive and enjoy the 4 speed trans. After reading through a few posts about it I am going to remove it and put a return spring in the bellhousing. My question is....how do I remove the clutch assist spring from under the dash. Spent some time trying this weekend without much luck. Thanks
 
Stack washers between the coils of the spring to keep it extended while you remove it.
 
It should have a clutch linkage return spring from the TO bearing arm to the block as stock, regardless of the clutch type.

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I haven’t done it yet but I understand the process is with the pedal at rest, insert as many washers as possible between the coils and then depressing the clutch fully which releases some tension on the spring and lever the end loose.
 
Depressing the pedal stretches the spring out so you can fit the washers in between the coils easier? Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Works for some I guess. When I bought my Dart, I couldn't figure out for the life of me why there was about $1.50 worth of quarters in the spring. Then I asked a friend. Not the easier way, I pulled the frame work out and cleaned, repainted and lubed the clutch shaft. The important spring is the fork to bellhousing. The next thing will be to complain that the clutch pedal isn't even with the brake pedal.
 
It's called an over center spring.
It helps depress ye 'ol borg & beck clutch past the center, and returns the pedal back at the center.

If you leave it in with a diaphragm clutch it could hold the pedal to the floor.

Push the pedal halfway, fill the spring with washers, let the pedal go, it should be extended and easy to remove.
 
On mine there is a point with the clutch depressed about an inch where it wants to hang up instead of returning all the way to the stop. @matthon describes it as halfway down but on my particular car, it’s much closer to the top, possibly due to a sprung retainer spring on the fork.. I understand that is the over-center point where the spring has its maximum installed stretch - which is the condition where you want to install the washers. The spring from the hitch point, pulls the pedal to the floor to assist with pedal pressure, so it is collapsing in length, releasing tension and making it easier to remove. Or at least that’s how I understand it.
 
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