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Reproduction Upper Control Arms

The offset bushings pressed in fine. I found out through research that my stock ball joints were not cross threaded, but that they are a different thread than the Moog upper ball joint. One of mine torqued to spec, the other stripped out.
I found that the re-pop arms now carry a warning that says the K772 is too small and that the K772C is the correct replacement ball joint.
That's the trouble I think I got into BPBP440. I could not get mine to start straight. Kept cross threading. So I gave up. I wonder if I got the proper ones could I possibly start them straight? That being said, I wonder are those new upper control arms are reconditioned old ones or actually new reproduction ones. I got mine off e-bay. Curious that's all.
Made a jig, and built my own.
But they're for a custom build.
I got the repop arms with bushings. They seemed high quality, but were a little too wide going in (see pic). It's been a while, but as I recall I ended up setting them on end using a bfh and pounding them a little closer together. Eventually, they went in and the rest of the suspension rebuild proceeded. Alignment went well (after I taught the alignment guy how to do it lol). Anyway, after 3 years and 10,000 miles, no issues. Car drives like new.

It does depend on your goals for the car,
Stock OEM restoration or a cruiser, the stock parts work fine.
If your parts are damaged and need replacements, the reproductions might be a smart move.
Finally, if you're into improved performance, aftermarket UCAs with improved caster built in are an excellent idea. You'll get the ability to get alignment settings closer to what modern cars have.
Used qa1 upper, and lower control arms no problems. I may have switch to power steering. 225/60 15 radials are a workout at lower speeds like parking, and slow tight turns, great arm workout though :)