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Rim and tire fitment for 70 Charger

Not to be picky, but technically 0 offset is 5.5" back spacing. The rim is 1" over size from the tire dimensions. IE a 10" rim will have 10" inside the bead of the rim, once you add in the rim bead it's 11" physically.

I'm running 5.5" BS on a 15x10" with 295 tires on my 68 Coronet - no scrubbing, but I'm not dumped. I wanted 5" but wasn't able to get them in the end, on mine, I'm confident they would have fit.
Good catch, totally slipped my mind.:thumbsup: My 10" wide rims measure 11" wide so that would be true if they go off of the outside on offsets which would seam to be correct. I ordered mine giving zero offset as the spec so I imagine they are 5.5"?
I was running 295/65r15's on off-the-shelf 15x8 wheels (4.5" BS). That's a 30" x 11.6" tire, only needed to roll the fenders to avoid any sort of rubbing scenario. When we're talking about pro-touring or resto-mods, I don't really see this as an honest suggestion to someone.

You want a larger diameter wheel, 17-18" specifically for high-performance tire selection. If you want sidewall, it's tough to go with a larger wheel diameter. The largest diameter street tire I could run on my 18x10's were 295/45r18. That comes out to a 28.5" x 11.6" tire, with 5.2" of sidewall. Absolutely no rubbing, no modifications to the factory spring location or wheel tubs. Like others have stated here, simply copy someone else's R&D for the correct BS / offset, no reason to reinvent the wheel.

295/50r15 is 26.6" tall. It has a 5.8" sidewall.
275/60r15 is 28" tall. It has a 6.5" sidewall.
295/45r18 is 28.5" tall. It has a 5.2" sidewall.

If I'm not mistaken, the A12 cars came with G70-15 Polyglas tires. That's a 27.7 x 6.75 tire. Something else to think about, depending on your current ride height, if wanting to go with a lesser tire diameter.

Do some basic measurements, try and figure out exactly what look / style/ performance aspect you're going for.
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Good catch, totally slipped my mind.:thumbsup: My 10" wide rims measure 11" wide so that would be true if they go off of the outside on offsets which would seam to be correct. I ordered mine giving zero offset as the spec so I imagine they are 5.5"?

Yeah in theory its 5.5" BS on a 10" at 0et. I personally find offset more accurate and easier really spec correctly, but thats probably cause of the era of car I grew up with and what I've previously built. Having said that BS is very intuitive, so its a lot easier to pick up where some struggle with offset.

Sweet5lt is right tho, easier to see what works and copy the specs. I've just generally liked to push the envelope more with wheels as I have something very specific in mind usually. My old supra had wheels spec out to the 5mm of clearance for maximum width.

On the 18"s note, I have put 18x9.5" with +23 offset on the rear of my Net using 25mm spacers (so about -2 offset), running 265/35's (from memory) - 26"ish tire anyway. I felt like I have plenty of room to go bigger. Taller wheel means less side wall, means less side wall bulge, means you have more room to go bigger! ;) Only thing to worry about is the F'n inner wheel well lump. Wish I had removed it when I restored her!

I've been keeping an eye on what you guys have been running so I can spec out my big wheels perfectly when I finally decide to go with modern shoes.
15" X 8" Cragar's with a 4-1/2" b.S. on my Charger with 295/50/15's on the rear. I didn't want the jacked up look so I didn't go with a taller tire. I run the same on my Rallye wheels also.

IMG_20140928_171443_835 (002).jpg rsz_20170903_161436 (1).jpg
Just got my 15"x10" Cragar wheels, part #61015, installed today.
Backspace 4.25"
Cooper 295/50/15
They fit great!
Installed air shocks just to make sure.

747mopar...I went to a car restoration shop yesterday, and the guy told me 15x10 rims with a 295/50/15 tire would rub on my 70 charger. I'm not sure he really knew mopars very well but, I did have my car there and he measured inside the wheel well and said the tires will rub if you hit a bump, have people in the backseat, or corner hard. He said I would need to "mini tub" or curl lip which would be expensive because would need paint work.

What the guy may be speaking of is the rear half of the outer wheel house. For some dumb *** reason, 68-70 B body cars have wheelhouses that do not directly follow the quarter panel straight up. The wheelhouse is spot welded to the quarter panel wheel opening, then goes up slightly, turns horizontal for a few inches, then turns vertical. Some call it the "wheelhouse hump". A common practice for custom builds is a whole new wheelhouse to allow a car to sit low with the tire close to the edge of the body. A less drastic method is to cut and modify that wheel tub from convex into the tub to concave.
Wheel tub 1.JPG
Wheel tub 2.JPG
Anyone managed to modify these without effecting the paint on the car? One thing I wish I'd done before painting the car!
I have thought about that. I am considering modifying the wheel tub and using a panel bond adhesive. I could make a concave panel to replace the bulged section and just "glue" it in from the wheelwell side. Panel adhesives have been proven to be strong and weathertight.
Trkmnstr your pm is full.