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RMS Alterkation front suspension

Avantguy

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Has anyone here in FBBO installed the Riley Motorsport Alterkation front suspension. I am seriously considering it for 69 Charger. I would greatly appreciate any input one might have.

Thanks, Dave
 
Has anyone here in FBBO installed the Riley Motorsport Alterkation front suspension. I am seriously considering it for 69 Charger. I would greatly appreciate any input one might have.

Thanks, Dave

i had a hard time to justify $4500 for the alterktion but once i got it and started to put it in. it was a work of art, everything fit perfect and went together like a million bucks. dropped the drivetrain in an couldnt believe no more body roll. i can take a on-ramp double the posted speed limit. i love mine an worth every penny.
 
So what the heck do that with the factory front end.

I put 6.1 Hemi with the 6 speed with tti headers with the starter on pass side the factory k member wouldn't work an headers wouldn't fit with torsion bars.
 
I think I actually have a buyer for the old front end. I had installed the MP disc brakes and re-bushed the control arms with PST poly graphite bushings, aluminum struts and tie rod sleeves. Just don't know how much to ask for it all though.
 
i had a hard time to justify $4500 for the alterktion but once i got it and started to put it in. it was a work of art, everything fit perfect and went together like a million bucks. dropped the drivetrain in an couldnt believe no more body roll. i can take a on-ramp double the posted speed limit. i love mine an worth every penny.
I am able to take curves and on ramps as fast as that, but I didn't spend Five thousand dollars to do it. The factory stuff is great with a rebuild and a few upgrades. I'm talking chassis stiffening, a welded and gussetted K member, Firm Feel steering box and fast ratio arms and good shocks. The car retains OEM durability, has far better handling and cost far less than $2000 to get there.
 
I am able to take curves and on ramps as fast as that, but I didn't spend Five thousand dollars to do it. The factory stuff is great with a rebuild and a few upgrades. I'm talking chassis stiffening, a welded and gussetted K member, Firm Feel steering box and fast ratio arms and good shocks. The car retains OEM durability, has far better handling and cost far less than $2000 to get there.

All I did was replace all of the rubbers with Poly, new heavier torsion bars, tubular upper arms and new shocks. No tucking or diving around the turns with a very nice ride quality as well. I can't justify anywhere close to those cost but I'm on a very tight budget that won't allow it. Durability is what concerns me with these kits but we'll see.
 
I am able to take curves and on ramps as fast as that, but I didn't spend Five thousand dollars to do it. The factory stuff is great with a rebuild and a few upgrades. I'm talking chassis stiffening, a welded and gussetted K member, Firm Feel steering box and fast ratio arms and good shocks. The car retains OEM durability, has far better handling and cost far less than $2000 to get there.

read my second post and thats why i had to get the alterktion. never knocked the stock stuff out there. i guess you can hate on my setup
 
read my second post and thats why i had to get the alterktion. never knocked the stock stuff out there. i guess you can hate on my setup

You know you never have to worry about me hating on your ride, you've got one of the baddest RRs on here even if it hasn't been painted yet! The only reason for me responding is to many don't understand how very little it takes to make these cars handle really well without going crazy. No offence meant
 
Love the AlterKtion

I have a AlterKtion in my 68 Charger, and the install was pretty easy, I am also running a 6.1 hemi with a 545rfe trans, I bought a complete kit from Bouchillion (spelled wrong) I got everything from engine to tank, was a big help for install and getting it up and running.
 
I am able to take curves and on ramps as fast as that, but I didn't spend Five thousand dollars to do it. The factory stuff is great with a rebuild and a few upgrades. I'm talking chassis stiffening, a welded and gussetted K member, Firm Feel steering box and fast ratio arms and good shocks. The car retains OEM durability, has far better handling and cost far less than $2000 to get there.

Only problem is with the stock suspension you cant get much more than 1* caster and cant get proper suspension geometry, all good if you just like cruising, but when you want to start bashing on it around corners and high speed and wanting extra room for aftermarket gear the OEM just wont cut it

More positive caster for high speed and straight line stability, less side scrub and better camber angles, 0 bump steer, lowered stance for better geometry, better spindles, lighten up the front end of your mopar, less body roll and better steering, steering moved to in front of wheels to open up room for oil pans and headers, easier to work on your engine, looks freaking awesome. these are jsut some of the benefits

- - - Updated - - -

I can see my post starting an argument, i am happy to prove my comment with links to all the research i did to prove my comment.

there is alot of guys 1 for example is the hotchkis roadrunner that runs in the autocross races and he has the OEM gear but is heavily upgraded with hotchkis gear. i can say for myself the magnumforce unit was needed for my car as i use to run the stock suspension with discs and had all upgraded bushes and everything and i did not like the way it handled it felt unsafe to me, onci i installed the magnumforce i can take corners so fast that my rear inside wheel slightly comes off the ground and i can let go of the steering wheel doing 200kmh on the straight it feels so planted to the ground now and much safer to drive for me
 
Yup, there is going to be the hard core old school is best group and the improve on the old group. No right or wrong. I personally would go with the upgrade. I am sure driving will be a lot... Um different is the safe word.

I have one myself, but, the car is not on the road yet. I could not have picked a nicer aftermarket upgrade. Sure, it's expensive. But so is everything else that is quality. It's made in the USA too.
 
No more than 1 degree Caster? Who is your alignment guy?
I have 3/4 degree NEG camber, 4 degrees of caster and 1/8" toe in. The car has never been wrecked. STOCK upper control arms with offset bushings can get you there if all the parts are straight.

I don't embrace words like..."go on and hate" because I don't speak that way. I personally do not find the value in these aftermarket front end replacement kits. I run stock based small or big blocks. I do see that these 3G Hemi swaps require a change in thinking, especially in an A body.
To read Time and time again... "The car handles so much better with the new XYZ Suspension" is getting old. Almost every instance occurs with a totally worn out OEM suspension getting replaced. This is not a direct comparison. How about removing a 400,000 mile 440 and slipping in a new Chevy LS7. Oh, I can't believe the power. That Mopar 440 is junk.
 
1* caster in absolute stock front end.
Absolute stock is rubbish IMO, yes you can get the cheaper aftermarket parts for the stock setup and get amazing results and even handle as good as the aftermarket k members, but when going for more room, less flex, lighter front end and massive tuneability then a custom setup is needed, if not then dont waste your money.
 
I'll be glad to take the points you made one by one.
More room: For what? If everything clears and I can work on it without skinning knuckles, I see no benefit.
Less flex: Compared to stock? Maybe, maybe not. The stock K member can be reinforced with perimiter welding and the addition of a few gussets. The RMS system places all the suspension loads into the frame rails. The stock setup DIVIDES the suspension forces between the frame rails, the floorpan and the torsion bar crossmember.
Lighter front end: You win here. The stock stuff is heavier. It is that way because the car was designed for 100,000 mile durability. Early failures are bad for an automaker. The bad rep from the Aspen/Volare sent many potential Mopar buyers to GM and Ford.
Massive tunability: This is probably true. If you are racing and need more spring rate or softer shocks, I can see that these setups might be great. If you own a street car that doesn't get raced at different road courses every weekend, the tunability isn't much benefit.
Now I'll take it further.....
* As mentioned by Mopar Action magazine Editor Rick Ehrenberg: The outer tie rod attachment is a substandard method. The steering rack attaches the spindle with a deep spacer to minimize bump steer. Anyone with any sense knows that the best way to attach two members is directly with NO spacer. Wheels, pulleys, you name it. Spacers are a band-aid. Build it to fit with a proper spindle and the risk of failure diminishes dramatically.
Good luck to those that own and enjoy these kits. I just do not see the benefits.
 

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good points.

in my case my headers and oil pan didn't fit the stock.

Nice car too man
heres mine.
1075398_3726596219665_2145827575_o.jpg
 
I'll be glad to take the points you made one by one.
More room: For what? If everything clears and I can work on it without skinning knuckles, I see no benefit.
Less flex: Compared to stock? Maybe, maybe not. The stock K member can be reinforced with perimiter welding and the addition of a few gussets. The RMS system places all the suspension loads into the frame rails. The stock setup DIVIDES the suspension forces between the frame rails, the floorpan and the torsion bar crossmember.
Lighter front end: You win here. The stock stuff is heavier. It is that way because the car was designed for 100,000 mile durability. Early failures are bad for an automaker. The bad rep from the Aspen/Volare sent many potential Mopar buyers to GM and Ford.
Massive tunability: This is probably true. If you are racing and need more spring rate or softer shocks, I can see that these setups might be great. If you own a street car that doesn't get raced at different road courses every weekend, the tunability isn't much benefit.
Now I'll take it further.....
* As mentioned by Mopar Action magazine Editor Rick Ehrenberg: The outer tie rod attachment is a substandard method. The steering rack attaches the spindle with a deep spacer to minimize bump steer. Anyone with any sense knows that the best way to attach two members is directly with NO spacer. Wheels, pulleys, you name it. Spacers are a band-aid. Build it to fit with a proper spindle and the risk of failure diminishes dramatically.
Good luck to those that own and enjoy these kits. I just do not see the benefits.

Bingo, this is why I won't put one on my car. There is one out now that has bars leading back to the firewall that looks better but you'd need a cage to tie it to. I'm by no means a stock guy nor do I steer away from mods but it just doesn't make sense to me for the reasons stated.
 
Nice car, Benno. That is a great look.
 
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