Rust encapsulater or converter

Exterior Body, Paint, Trim, Chrome

  1. ahmincha

    ahmincha FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    20200128_130724.jpg 20200129_130945.jpg Hi all,
    I am looking for some info on what is the recommended product. Basically surface rust. Zero rot just want to stop is from getting worse
     
  2. tak419

    tak419 Well-Known Member

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    In those areas any good oil based paint will last a lifetime. I used a product from Eastwood that was made for the boating industry called Coreless or something like that.
     
  3. El.Padrino

    El.Padrino Well-Known Member

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    If you are already going this route now is the time to have easy access to those areas. Why not remove the rust mechanically with a strip disc and sandblast hard to reach with a small gun? Followed by a coat of rust converter and then a 2K epoxy. For welding areas take a weld thru primer.

    You can easily do this at home.
     
  4. matthon

    matthon Well-Known Member

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    I've researched this a bit, a number of threads on it, and it seems most can be applied over rust but not metal, or you have to wash it or neutralize it after, IIRC.

    Eastwood has a product that can be used on rust and bare metal, and done. It can also be sprayed or brushed on, but cannot be welded through.

    Anyone used it?
     
  5. threewood

    threewood FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Corroseal Converter is what I used. No problemo. I'm sure most of the converters are the same thing.

    I also used Rust Bullet on the inner framerails and other body parts without issue. This stuff is a paint and more expensive.
     
  6. ahmincha

    ahmincha FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    My first thought was to get off as much as possible then spray rust converter. But the more I read the more confused I got. Like matthon stated they are not recommended over bare metal
    I am thinking of sandblasting what I can but get worried if i miss some it comes back.
     
  7. hanks73340

    hanks73340 Well-Known Member

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    Corroseal Converter:thumbsup:
     
  8. 493 Mike

    493 Mike FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    I have used quite a few cans of Eastwoods converter/encapsulator. It comes with nozzle extensions and it's great for inside frame rails, floor cross members, and inside doors and such. Hood and deck lid reinforcements too. It will creep into lap seams also.
    Mike
     
  9. El.Padrino

    El.Padrino Well-Known Member

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    i am just a fan of remove as much rust as possible instead of just apply something over. even if it is surface rust. always better to have most bare metal and work from there.

    rust in every form is a bitch.
     
  10. 493 Mike

    493 Mike FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Pretty hard to remove rust inside frame rails and lap welded seams.
    Mike
     
  11. RGAZ

    RGAZ Well-Known Member

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    I've used Rust Bullet, Por 15, and Eastwood rust encapsulant and rust converter. Each have their pros and cons. Let me explain and if I get flamed, oh well.

    I find rust bullet to be thick (hard to spray) and provides an ugly surface when dry even when thinned. Apply with brush at your own risk. God help you if there is existing rust, it may actually bubble. I would ONLY use it if the area is never to be seen again. In the end, if it rusts, you may never know.

    I find Por 15 also to be thick, but not as bad. I don't like the cure time or the final surface. Its prettier than Bullet, but still ugly. Good for wheel wells or rarely seen subframe. I really hate their high-temp stuff, but that is another post...

    Eastwood rust converter (the chemical) can convert surface rust well, but for heavy rust, don't bother. I would remove as much physically as possible if you can. When dry it is easily coated. It seems to do the job but can't be left alone and needs a topcoat. I would happily use this on almost anything, but not without a topcoat.

    Eastwood rust encapsulator is my go-to rusty metal primer. It is not as thick as others, can be thinned to spray pretty easy, levels well and can be sanded if needed. i use this exclusively for complete undercoats as a primer usually followed by a hard-surface underbody coating. It seems to hold the rust at bay and provide a nice solid layer for the coating to bond too. I have no complaints other than the price at times. If its not rusty, I stick with Epoxy primer.

    Bonus: The Eastwood zinc-based frame coating (with the spray tube) works surprisingly well and can really coat interior parts quick and easy. If you do it it can really sneak past welds, so be ready if you have a pretty paintjob already done.

    RGAZ
     
    • Thanks! Thanks! x 2
    • khryslerkid

      khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      I used the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator inside my cowling where you can't get to. I believe they do recommend useing it over rust but it can't be loose rust. I used the spray bomb with the straw applicator to get in between the slots. It's paintable.

      Here's their line of different products they have for different situations.

      https://www.eastwood.com/paints/rus...MIze7H-J675wIVVODICh1MjgxDEAAYASAAEgIYLfD_BwE
       
      Last edited: Feb 6, 2020
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      • Randy Marsh

        Randy Marsh Well-Known Member

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        Another thumbs up here for Eastwood. If you just want to move on spray it with rust encapsulator. It'll be good till we're all dead.

        If it's really bothering you then knock down any really bad stuff with a roloc disc. Then spray everything down with Eastwood Fast Etch. Scrub it with a scotch pad. Then wipe it with any wax/grease remover. Then hit it with the encapsulator. Fast Etch is great stuff.
         
      • Corman

        Corman Member

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