Seeking Auto Body and Paint Tips for my 68 Charger

[KohrtRacing]

As a long time racer I know full well that pretty paint and body doesn't cut lights or run the number so I've ignored it for many years, however, with the setup of racing where I want it to be for the time being and the offseason approaching, I thought I would get the jump before winter on finally getting the car pretty so I've begun body work and paint preparation.

For context of myself and the car's finished expectation I am a big DYIer however I have never painted a car before. I do not expect show car quality and it needs to be a paint job that honestly if I was to come back from a run and it's got a chip in it, I would have no stress. Fancy paint is a major anxiety increaser and I just don't think I'd even want that. AKA, The fenders will have tools on them However, as you can tell from the pics of the car, it needs some color love and I'm simply getting it protection + making it one color (Along with making it as good looking as I possibly can) with the hopes that I can do it under $1000. My father shot his Dart in the driveway growing up and it honestly looked great for it's intention even in black so I've been picking his brain and know in my head it's very doable.

The car has hail damage I want to fix so my game plan, if accurate, is to get to bare metal, epoxy primer clear low spots, guide coat, sand to find low spots, filler, sand again, guide coat, sand for low spots again, and then if fixed, move towards complete car epoxy primer and then shooting with a single stage paint. Epoxy primer for this car, the paint supplier says will be $200. $400 for the paint. Another $100 for reducer/hardener/fill and $200 for HVLP guns, drapes, etc. I ask a lot of questions and everyone I ask says you can make a vanilla paint look great with good body work, not the other way around so body is my focus.

My question is a very broad one but I'm seeking any tips/tricks from anyone who understands the context that I'm under (of the cars expectation and attempt under budget) and can give any thoughts to consider in the future. The one thing I do have is a lot of time and motivation with no disgust to work at it. I do plan on shooting this inside my garage with drapes when ready with a high-volume gun.

Another question I have is more on the paint side. The decision is not made but paint color is down to T7 Bronze, AA-1 Silver or B5 Blue. The car is likely to get a black vinyl top regardless of color. Understanding that it's single stage and will not be put on professionally is there a color of these that you think I realistically should be avoiding? Example, I considered a deep cherry red but because of my process, lack of skill, I'm afraid I simply won't be able to do it justice enough and it's going to look real bad. Maybe I'm wrong in that assessment.

Would love thoughts, opinions, tips, tricks you can share as someone who has gone through this process as I'm sure there are many here!

 

[mopar4don]

Watching with interest

 

[WileE]

I'd recommend avoiding a metallic color in your circumstance, you may wind up with tiger stripes. A solid white would be my first advice.

 

[Cop car wagon]

For a first time paint application with single stage paint, stay away from a metallic color.
For bodywork, plastic filler "bondo", sand, followed by, filler, guide coat, sand and filler. Get it close before ever applying primer.
On bare metal, filler adheres well. The idea of epoxy priming all bare metal is good, (like if all panels were blasted), but major sanding of bondo will cut it all back on the surface when sanding hail damage.
Finish the entire panel in filler before priming.
Bondo is easier to cut flat with 40 grit. Bondo is easier to cut flat if the entire repair area is covered in one coat.
Once straight and level, the entire area needs a thin recoat to get rid of sand scratches. Cut scunge with 80grit and finish in 150, before primer.
I could go on.

 

[KohrtRacing]

For a first time paint application with single stage paint, stay away from a metallic color.
For bodywork, plastic filler "bondo", sand, followed by, filler, guide coat, sand and filler. Get it close before ever applying primer.
On bare metal, filler adheres well. The idea of epoxy priming all bare metal is good, (like if all panels were blasted), but major sanding of bondo will cut it all back on the surface when sanding hail damage.
Finish the entire panel in filler before priming.
Bondo is easier to cut flat with 40 grit. Bondo is easier to cut flat if the entire repair area is covered in one coat.
Once straight and level, the entire area needs a thin recoat to get rid of sand scratches. Cut scunge with 80grit and finish in 150, before primer.
I could go on.

The paint shop seems to be a big fan of filler going on the epoxy primer and not directly on to bare metal. I found this weird because I’ve never heard it to be bad to go to bare metal. It does adhere well? My filler spots are very few and small in size.

 

[KohrtRacing]

I'd recommend avoiding a metallic color in your circumstance, you may wind up with tiger stripes. A solid white would be my first advice.

We’re all the colors I chose metallic? lol

The paint shop said the same thing. They say they can mix up anything. Example: Is silver always considered a metallic? Could they not mix up a basic color non-metallic of what I listed?

 

[pnora]

As a long time racer I know full well that pretty paint and body doesn't cut lights or run the number so I've ignored it for many years, however, with the setup of racing where I want it to be for the time being and the offseason approaching, I thought I would get the jump before winter on finally getting the car pretty so I've begun body work and paint preparation.

For context of myself and the car's finished expectation I am a big DYIer however I have never painted a car before. I do not expect show car quality and it needs to be a paint job that honestly if I was to come back from a run and it's got a chip in it, I would have no stress. Fancy paint is a major anxiety increaser and I just don't think I'd even want that. AKA, The fenders will have tools on them However, as you can tell from the pics of the car, it needs some color love and I'm simply getting it protection + making it one color (Along with making it as good looking as I possibly can) with the hopes that I can do it under $1000. My father shot his Dart in the driveway growing up and it honestly looked great for it's intention even in black so I've been picking his brain and know in my head it's very doable.

The car has hail damage I want to fix so my game plan, if accurate, is to get to bare metal, epoxy primer clear low spots, guide coat, sand to find low spots, filler, sand again, guide coat, sand for low spots again, and then if fixed, move towards complete car epoxy primer and then shooting with a single stage paint. Epoxy primer for this car, the paint supplier says will be $200. $400 for the paint. Another $100 for reducer/hardener/fill and $200 for HVLP guns, drapes, etc. I ask a lot of questions and everyone I ask says you can make a vanilla paint look great with good body work, not the other way around so body is my focus.

My question is a very broad one but I'm seeking any tips/tricks from anyone who understands the context that I'm under (of the cars expectation and attempt under budget) and can give any thoughts to consider in the future. The one thing I do have is a lot of time and motivation with no disgust to work at it. I do plan on shooting this inside my garage with drapes when ready with a high-volume gun.

Another question I have is more on the paint side. The decision is not made but paint color is down to T7 Bronze, AA-1 Silver or B5 Blue. The car is likely to get a black vinyl top regardless of color. Understanding that it's single stage and will not be put on professionally is there a color of these that you think I realistically should be avoiding? Example, I considered a deep cherry red but because of my process, lack of skill, I'm afraid I simply won't be able to do it justice enough and it's going to look real bad. Maybe I'm wrong in that assessment.

Would love thoughts, opinions, tips, tricks you can share as someone who has gone through this process as I'm sure there are many here!

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View attachment 1902372

1,000.00 is not even close to what you will be needing. Along with the rest of the cars condition. You need to strip it down and get the paint off all of it. There are lots hiding and a ton of straightening and bump work.

 

[RJ Squirrel]

I am a big fan of SPI epoxy primer, easy to sand, fills well, has a shine to it so you can see where it needs work, and you can thin it for a final sealer coat. Get a 2 gallon kit, a gallon of filler and your finish paint/reducer/hardener and thats all you need besides sandpaper. A 2 gal kit is $300.
I use Automotive Art Eurofil filler - works well and inexpensive $38 a gallon

 

[KohrtRacing]

1,000.00 is not even close to what you will be needing. Along with the rest of the cars condition. You need to strip it down and get the paint off all of it. There are lots hiding and a ton of straightening and bump work.

What’s your guess? No labor. Just materials.