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Spark plugs in alum.heads

joelrpo687

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I'm almost ready to fire up my 64 Fury with stealth heads and a sommit ignition box on a 440 engine.What would you use to lubricate the spark plug threads-what is a good starting gap for the plugs.My motor is supposed to make 500 hp. 440 source sold me the Champion RC12YC.Either hemi-itis or superstocker preferred the Ngk 5672A-7 plugs because of the electrode's falling apart and hitting the piston ( I know they run crazy horsepower) I'm thinking I should get the NGK plugs.I've bought 4 dipsticks already=what's 2 sets of plugs? Thanks
 
Never seeze is a good addition on plugs in an aluminum head. I can't say that I find one brand of plug better than the other - would definitely not bother with $5 "zurconium" laser plugs, if you know what I mean. You will need to watch your heat range though. The 12YC plugs are stock heat range. If you've upped the compression any or increased cam, etc. you may find them too hot. They are a good starting point for though for a mild build...
 
I’ve read where many are not using anything on aluminum heads. The idea is the threads need the best conductivity to the head it can get, with anti-seize affecting that. True or not? I don’t know, but I quit using it years ago and never have had issues since.
 
NGK @ .045.
I can't recall the exact plugs at the moment, I want to say the Champion equivalent, BKR5ES, but iirc I went a bit hotter or colder.
 
I’ve read where many are not using anything on aluminum heads. The idea is the threads need the best conductivity to the head it can get, with anti-seize affecting that. True or not? I don’t know, but I quit using it years ago and never have had issues since.

NGKs have pre lube impregnated into the coating. They don't recommend any anti-seize. Might be other brands the same way.
 
I’ve read where many are not using anything on aluminum heads. The idea is the threads need the best conductivity to the head it can get, with anti-seize affecting that. True or not? I don’t know, but I quit using it years ago and never have had issues since.
Copper anti seize
 
You can take this for what it’s worth - maybe not much. I use hi-temp (copper based) anti-sieze on the plugs. And I never remove a plug from a hot engine. If I want to run a compression check on a warm engine I’ll back the plugs off until lightly seated, run the engine to warm it up and then back the plugs the rest of the way out. Wait to torque the plugs back down until the engine cools
 
Or you could get a set of these and not worry about it.
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Copper anti seize
I spent some time last night looking more into it until I got pulled away. I did find a bulletin from NGK stating don’t use ant-seize on any of their plugs. Another said folks that use anti-seize were installing plugs at 20 plus percent more torque than recommended because it was lubricating the threads where it was not supposed to be there. I quit years ago and have had no problems removing a plug from any head. However, I think I know less with each passing day, but the search feature on forums counteracts that some.
 
When you think about it, the majority of vehicles out there today have aluminum heads. The plug manufacturers came up with a way to help prevent ceased plugs by incorporating their own "anti-cease" into the coating. Some of the non coated plugs (black ones) may not have this feature.

I remember back in the day working on the old air cooled VWs with aluminum heads. You would be changing the plugs and you would find one that acted cross threaded when removing it. Sometimes it would remove the threads! Thankfully there were helicoils. NGKs were the go to plug back then also. Champions were known to cease/ corrode in the aluminum heads.
 
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