SSBC master cylinder swap - gasket? Grommet?

[tddawson]

I am replacing a single-pot manual master cylinder with a power unit from SSBC. The old single-pot unit fit flush against the reinforcement panel on the firewall. The new unit has brackets that extend the whole assembly forward 3-4 inches. This leaves a big gap around the booster push rod where it passes through the firewall. The SSBC unit has an accordian-style boot, but the hole it passes through is sort of a "rounded-diamond" shape.

Has anyone else installed the SSBC power-boosted MC, and if so - how did you address the gap? I've searched my parts list from the kit, and don't see any kind of boot or grommet included. I've tried contacting SSBC, but so far no response. (closed for the weekend, maybe?)

Thanks!! Oh, this is on a 1966 Charger - BTW...

 

[Redpolara]

Could you mount the booster directly onto the support plate and shorten the pushrod? It'd also have more of a factory look about it.....just a thought.

 

[tddawson]

Unfortunately, the bolts on the booster don't line up directly with the holes on the support plate, which means they also won't line up with the brake pedal assembly. It's got an adjustable push-rod, but with the bolt spaced differently, that doesn't help in this case...

 

[Redpolara]

Couldn't that issue be resolved with some carefull measuring and drilling?.....just asking.

 

[tddawson]

Nope, the bottom bolts would come through the firewall below the bracket for the brake pedal, which would throw everything else off. (and leave me with even more holes to have to fill.) I'm thinking there has to be a boot or splash-shield made for this - it's supposed to be a bolt-in kit, and I know I'm not the first person to ever buy this kit, there must be an easier way to plug that hole...

 

[MprDoc]

Oh good, I'm glad I'm not the only person that sees that as being problematic. I am installing the same kit (except on a '66 Satellite and the full front disk assembly) and am finding that once again, bolt in does not apply to Mopar. First thing I have noticed is that there sure as hell doesn't seem to be a whole lot clearance between the master cylinder and the left fender, at least not enough to run a brake line to the distribution block. Second, I am having a hard time trying to get the adjustable push rod to FIT! How about you? Any luck? Oh yea, my kit didn't come with anyway to seal the firewall either, kind of disturbing.

 

[tddawson]

I contacted SSBC tech support, the reply was "We do not have a boot for your fire wall; on some of the early Mopars there was an adapter plate that covered the larger hole. You may want to check with some of the Restoration Parts Shops for a reproduction piece!"

Not helpful...

It does appear that the stock reinforcement plate on cars with a factory power-booster has the same bolt spacing as the SSBC unit. I'm planning to scope out the junkyard and see if the measurements line up. This will still involve drilling holes in the firewall, and not sure about the brake pedal assembly - I'll probably take the matching pedal from the junkyard, too.

It is a REALLY tight fit against the left inner fender apron. I haven't figured out how to do the lines yet - will probably have to make some custom ones. (father-in-law has a double-flare kit, fortunately.)

I haven't gotten to the push-rod just yet. Thanks for the warning!

Maybe we should have gone with Baer or Wilwood, eh?

 

[tddawson]

Looking at this again - from the inside, it looks like the bolts for the power booster will fit the existing (manual) pedal assembly. So, just the plate from a boosted set-up is required for flush mount. (as opposed to drilling out my existing one)

I'm still not clear on how all the gaskets go. I didn't do the disassembly, and I don't have an assembly manual - So I'm guessing an awful lot. Does the large rectangular one go inside the cabin, or in the engine compartment? What about the little diamond-shaped one? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I'd sell my left arm for an assembly manual...but then how would I hold an open-ended wrench AND a socket driver at the same time?? :confused:

 

[MprDoc]

Yea, I am pretty frustrated. Seems like when you spend that much money on something it should drop right in with no problems, shouldn't have to screw around with a bunch of BS and if you are going to have to they should tell you that. Im SURE if I was a putting on a Chevy or a Mustang it would drop right in no problem but not so much for our B Body Mopar cars. Haters.

 

[MprDoc]

AHHHHHH! Those are the WORST instruction on earth as far as the brake line routing goes. SO you can look at yours and tell me what you think but when I checked that thing out it seems to me that the larger of the two bowls on the master cylinder is the most forward - closest to the front bumper - of the two. So I bent all my brake lines based on that only to realize that the instructions told me to use the WRONG DAMN TUBE for the wrong bowl!! AHHHHHHHHHH! I want to freaking stab something so bad. An hour and a half gone, for nothing.

All though I will say that the brake lines will fit just make sure you get tube bender pliers. They sell them at Checkers/Kragen/Oreily's for like 12 bucks and what I did was make a template out of some baline wire first and follow that when making the final bends.

 

[tddawson]

Still working on this...

It's probably a good thing I did the calipers first - they were a piece of cake. (although, I do recall some head-scratching moments looking at those "instructions". Nice that they had A-body notes on the same diagram we had to use, as they install almost exactly opposite to the B's.) Too much to ask that the Booster be so easy? I might have given up otherwise - or better yet returned the whole mess and went with Baer...

Thanks for the baling wire tip, that is a great idea! I'm planning a junkyard trip next weekend to try and find a reinforcement plate from a power boosted car. Will let you know if that solves the mounting issue - but it sounds like you've passed that hurdle. I will need to pick up one of those tube benders, too...

 

[morbidgoat]

i put this booster and master on my 69 gtx i tried bolting it up as instructed but it was tight against the fender and i couldnt connect my brake lines i wound up shimming out the left (driver side) brkt to kinda kick the assembly over more towards the engine. i still havent done anything about the fire wall though. as for the the adjustable pedal rod i had to cut the threaded shaft shorter to make it work

 

[MprDoc]

HA HA HA! I was just loggin on to say that. I had to do the same thing. Tech support was like "Oh the threaded rod is there only if you need it, you probably just need to put the looped end on the booster directly." Horrible tech. Yea, I think I lopped of close to two inches off that thing with a dremel and it fits great now.I bench bled it today and hooked up the lines too. I had to shorten the ones they gave me AND had to switch attachments because the instructions are wrong. WOrst R and D ever. But hey. there on now. I am just hoping that the new bevels I put on the lines hold the pressure, there kinda funky, I broke TWO bevel tools on the things because there steel. If it doesnt hold Im gonna have to get a new high quality one.

 

[tddawson]

You guys are a lot closer to actually getting on the road with these brakes - I would be VERY interested in hearing how they perform. At least if I hear that they are totally awesome once installed, it will give me something to look forward to!

 

[MprDoc]

Im just about done with the install. . . actually as far as the front part being done I am done, I'm just waiting on the spring I lost from the right rear drum so I can finish putting the rear brakes together and than pressurize and bleed the system. I installed new brake lines at the same time so I have to bleed the entire system as well. Car won't actually be running for some time but the install will be complete. I am HOPING that the reflairing I had to do on the brake lines was good enough because the piece of **** made in China tube flaring tools (yes, I broke two of them) where not strong enough to properly double flair the lines. If not, I think I'm just gonna get the stainless kit and make lines from scratch because mine are kinda kinked up from having rebend them.

 

[morbidgoat]

unfortunately i cant give you a good before and after since my project came to me with disc brakes already (but no booster and a locked up master), all i bought from summit was the ssbc booster and master combo. so i got no before to compare to but i can tell you that for my car the pedal is like butter almost too soft. and i have to push it almost 3/4 way to the floor to lock them up. but they do work and seem to work good. maybe i still have some air in the lines that i need to bleed out better?