Starter issue and how to test a starter.

[Fran Blacker]

Had trouble starting my car, kicked back a few times. Reason maybe timing was off and didn't get distributor in same position as it was fixed that. Also no accelerator pump squirt so it was hard to keep it running, that's fixed. Sometimes hit key and get a nasty grind when starter engages. My diagnosis bendix is toasted?? If that's the case I'll pull starter and replace bendix.
Have several starters of unknown condition and would like to test them. Don't want to mess anything up, normally just hook a hot lead to stud and ground starter ear. Then jump the hot wire to solenoild stud, is there a better way.

 

[Don Frelier]

Pull the sheet metal cover off. Clean and inspect the worm shaft that throws the gear out. Lubricate it.
Without disassembly it's hard to really say how long it will last.
A Dakota type starter is hard to beat.
I don't have a gear reduction in either of my cars.

 

[RJRENTON]

Pull the sheet metal cover off. Clean and inspect the worm shaft that throws the gear out. Lubricate it.
Without disassembly it's hard to really say how long it will last.
A Dakota type starter is hard to beat.
I don't have a gear reduction in either of my cars.

I believe the direct drive starter, uses worm shaft to engage the one way starter clutch (aka "bendix"), while the reduction gear drive starter, which has a "shifting fork" (similar to the shifting fork used with manual trans), operated by the solenoid, to engage the starter clutch ("bendix") with the ring gear. As a side bar, the term "bendix" originated with the Bendix coaster brake on bicycles...which is a one way clutch assembly....drives in one direction, free wheels in the opposite direction.
There are several electrical tests that be performed on the motor. Brush contact with the armature, armature and field coil windings to ground, overall resistance tests and when installed, current draw while cranking (load test). The mini starters are far more efficient because of the permanent magnet fields in lieu of copper windings so less internal voltage drop. The starter is basically a series wound motor, noted for their maximum torque produced at locked rotor conditions (innitial engagement). In addition, the condition of the two contacts and the copper disc in the solenoid (the 3 high currect carrying parts) can become burned causing a similar condition as a bad battery.....clicking but no cranking.....remember not all starter problems are mechanical. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

 

[Fran Blacker]

I'm a sinner. Didn't say it is a gear reduction starter. It worked fine until the kick backs, timing to advanced. Think I bumped distributor before marking it's position.