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Starter Question

MoparThunder

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I am still chasing gremlins. Concerning my starting issue, I bought a new mini starter (Powermaster Powermax PLUS Starter) and have installed it but instead of the sound I had before (the typical dead battery clicking fast clicking) it sounds like it thuds once or twice. I bench tested it adn it is fine but sounds like it bottoms out when installed. Do I have to turn the fly wheel to line it up or something? or is this not the right starter? Or is there another problem?
 
Oh, yes it has been running for awhile prior to the issues I have.
 
Sounds like you are losing the battery feed to the starter. Without that all you will hear is the clunk of the solenoid.
 
I have the one below, 2 to solenoid, 2 to relay. Cable is in good shape. What would be wrong? Should I check and clean the battery post and positive cable end? Starter relay is new.

battery positive cable.jpg
 
Wouldn't be the first repro harness that the big wire was making negligable contact inside the lead moulded battery end.
 
Also check the negative cable. Either one could cause this.
Try a jumper cable across each cable if possible and see if it works.
 
A voltmeter and a friend would make quick work of this. If a friend is not available test leads will work. Your losing power somewhere.
 
Bridge the large & small studs on the starter with a screwdriver. If it cranks, the problem is in the ign/start relay cct.
 
Unfortunately i don't have a lift and getting tot he studs on the starter is hard to do, especially since the mini9 starter moved them to the block side. How far away fromt he block should the large stud be?
 
Get a remote starter switch and VOM or DVOM at Harbor Freight. Best $20 ever spent.
 
This is the one I use. I bought mine off Amazon a few years ago though, not Summit. Good if you do a lot of your repairs and diagnosing solo.

Innova 3630
 
I had exactly the same issue. For a while it would turn over a bit lazy, then one day it would just click. I suspected some sort of mechanical misalignment at the starter as well, but that was not the issue.

I put a voltmeter on the starter "hot" terminal, turned the key, and observed a massive voltage drop from the battery to the starter. After all that hassle I discovered the lead terminal on the battery cable (battery end) was loose/poorly crimped. This was a virtually brand new reproduction positive battery cable assembly. In my case I was not concerned about original appearance, so I had a custom battery cable made, using super heavy gauge cable. Problem solved.
 
I had issues with my repop positive battery cable too. My first clue was slow cranking and cable getting hot. I wiggled the battery clamp end and the cable popped out of the lead clamp.
 
One other thought is starter to block interference. There were some guys that reported the starter would not fit correctly. This is one possibility to check out.
 
I had thought of that. It bolts in tight against the block with no gaps but I thought there was a certain clearence that was required for the starter to engage the flywheel. Again w/o a lift it is difficult for me to see a whole lot.
 
You have to pull the starter and see if there's witness marks in that starter scoop area on the block. I always clearance that area
 
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