Steering box removal. It's never easy for me.

[1 Wild R/T]

P/S operates at 800-1200 PSI Though honestly it'll only see those numbers when you pin the wheel at full lock... Most of the time running through the normal travel it'll probably see 250-300 PSI

 

[Moparfiend]

P/S operates at 800-1200 PSI Though honestly it'll only see those numbers when you pin the wheel at full lock... Most of the time running through the normal travel it'll probably see 250-300 PSI

That’s quite high as I suspected. I’ll be changing out my hollow crush washer to a solid one in the future.

Thanks Guys!

 

[Don Frelier]

I saw that as well Wayne. 200 PSI at 500F seems low for a steering pump but I am not sure what pressure steering pumps develop?

Anybody know what pressure steering pumps generate?

Also PV=nRT right so the washers should be able to sustain higher pressures at a lower temperature.

PV=nRT
That's for gasses we're talking liquid hydraulic.

 

[Moparfiend]

PV=nRT
That's for glasses we're talking liquid hydraulic.

Gasses yes. I started to think about the effect on hydraulic fluid and got a bit dizzy. It’s been a while since my fluid dynamics class.

 

[Billccm]

Okay getting away from crush washers and back to steering.

Took the road runner out for a drive.

It seems my steering wheel is now about 10 degrees off. I took extra care to center everything. I guess I'm going to let my alignment guy look at it.

Won't start in Park about half the time. Always starts in Neutral. Maybe I need adjust the shift linkage? Any advice here?

No leaks, so far. My power steering pump seems to have a really faint growl now. Not sure if I need to worry about this, yet.

Going to give her a driwash bath and take her to a Friday night cruise.


Thanks for following along and I appreciate all the help and advice.

 

[dadsbee]

So putting the column in, you are now ever so slightly in a different place so the linkage isn't travelling the same to hit the switch in Park.

Seeing it was your box they rebuilt, wheel was straight before, column only connects one way as it's keyed and you're now 10 degrees off, did they put your worm and pinion gears together one tooth off? I'm not even sure that's possible, I've never taken a PS box apart....

 

[Don Frelier]

You can adjust the wheel centering by yourself.
Just loosen the tie-rod adjusting sleeves, take a paint marker and put a line on a convenient spot from the sleeve out to the tie rod.
Turn one side to make longer and the other the same amount to make shorter.
I'd guess maybe 1/8 of a turn.
If the wheel is to the right make the the passenger side longer.
Wheel towards the left make the drivers side longer.
Tighten back up and try it.

 

[dadsbee]

Agree ^^^ but why did Firm Feel rebuilding his box change his wheel orientation?

 

[Don Frelier]

Agree ^^^ but why did Firm Feel rebuilding his box change his wheel orientation?

There's no gaurantee that the same parts are in the box maybe one was worn and they replaced it.
It was Steer and Gear.
10 Deg. isn't much

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Just a slight shift in where the box is bolted to the K member can change the steering wheel position...

And first no you can't assemble the worm & sector one tooth off... But if you could the steering would be a lot more than 10 degrees off....

 

[Billccm]

Just to update the thread I've still got a small leak. New return hose clamps. The fitting is tight. I assume there's a crush washer I need to replace?
Sent a email to Steer N Gear asking for advice.

 

[Billccm]

I received another crush washer from Steer N Gear and so far no leaks. Hopefully this is done and I can focus on other nit picking items.

 

[Don Frelier]

Things like this are why I marvel at people who can do custom modifications.
It's tough enough to take stuff apart, rebuild it or replace and put it back together without leaks and problems.
But a win is a win!
Sometimes when they don't come easily it's a greater sense of accomplishment and pride.