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Steering issue

Thanks for your help Doug. The 73-74 idler arm seems to have solved the problem. If l do need to bend it a bit, it won't be very much.
 
Let me tack this on to this thread, because it seems to be a similar problem.
We've got a '70 Road Runner that was manual steering. Pulled the manual box and got an O'Reilly's box that's supposed to be a power box for a '70 RR, also got the pitman arm to go with the box. Hooked everything up, centered the steering box and installed the steering wheel. Car drives straight, but when I took it for alignment, they said that they could not center the steering wheel. Looking at this thread makes me wonder if the center link is different between the power and manual steering cars?
 
Let me tack this on to this thread, because it seems to be a similar problem.
We've got a '70 Road Runner that was manual steering. Pulled the manual box and got an O'Reilly's box that's supposed to be a power box for a '70 RR, also got the pitman arm to go with the box. Hooked everything up, centered the steering box and installed the steering wheel. Car drives straight, but when I took it for alignment, they said that they could not center the steering wheel. Looking at this thread makes me wonder if the center link is different between the power and manual steering cars?

Hey Crow, that is a good question and I thought the same thing. However, none of the people I have talked to have made mention of this. I have no idea what the guy I bought my car from was thinking but he was the ultimate cobbler using various parts from years other than 1970 on my car. Because of this, I have had to try and mix-match many parts to get a mechanically sound vehicle. When I converted from power to manual steering, I had to buy a new pitman arm because the original pitman arm was to big for the 70 manual steering box and I used an Idler arm that fits a 73-74 "B" body because of my center link clearance issues. All in all, my steering is sound and my steering wheel is straight. Case closed!!!
 
I got the pitman arm when I got the power box. I just called O'Reilly's and ordered a power box and arm for a '70 RR. I had read that the pitman arm would need changing too, so I ordered it at the same time. Everything hooked up fine, and I didn't have the clearance problems you had.
I centered the steering box, hooked up the column with the wheel centered and then hooked up the rest of the linkage. When I went to drive it, the wheel was 1/2 turn to the left off center.
Took it to the Chrysler dealer in town to align, and he said that 1/2 turn off was the best he could do and I should re-clock the steering wheel on the shaft. Great, except that causes the box to be off center, so it'll turn tighter to the right than the left. Alignment guy said there wasn't enough adjustment to straighten the wheel.
Car is in storage at the moment while my shop building undergoes some repairs, but when I get it out, I'm going to raise it up and study it again.
Something ain't right somewhere, and I'll figure it out sooner or later.
 
Adding more information (and possibly confusion) for others that happen to come across this same problem - where the cross link bar tilts up on the passenger side hitting the oil pan and the tie rod end and/or zerk fitting hits the torsion bar. I have the same exact problem ... interestingly enough, after upgrading to the PST system. And why I quoted the message below - my idler arm mount looks identical to the picture. So either my roadrunner had the same exact "bottom out" or it truly is an issue with the idler arm provided by PST (or other replacement) idler arms as the original op mentioned he also changed that prior to upgrading to PST.

So it has me wondering if there are different idler arm lengths (maybe having to do with manual vs. power steering for the 1968 - 1972 roadrunners)? Mine has manual steering btw.

And the fix I'm going to try - I plan to try the 1973/74 idler arm to see if that corrects the problem. Always wanted an extra inch - lol.



Had the exact same thing happen to me after upgrading with the PST kit and the solid tie rod sleeves, turns out one of the previous owners bottom'ed out the car so hard it bent the welded on bracket to the steering arm and raised it up, never noticed it until we put on the bigger tie rod ends on then it was obvious, we had to cut one of the sides of the bracket off & re weld it in place and add in some gussets for extra support so it would not bend again. all good now. Was confusing at first then it all made sense, unfortunately after that you find other bent parts on the k member :(


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Adding more information (and possibly confusion) for others that happen to come across this same problem - where the cross link bar tilts up on the passenger side hitting the oil pan and the tie rod end and/or zerk fitting hits the torsion bar. I have the same exact problem ... interestingly enough, after upgrading to the PST system. And why I quoted the message below - my idler arm mount looks identical to the picture. So either my roadrunner had the same exact "bottom out" or it truly is an issue with the idler arm provided by PST (or other replacement) idler arms as the original op mentioned he also changed that prior to upgrading to PST.

So it has me wondering if there are different idler arm lengths (maybe having to do with manual vs. power steering for the 1968 - 1972 roadrunners)? Mine has manual steering btw.

And the fix I'm going to try - I plan to try the 1973/74 idler arm to see if that corrects the problem. Always wanted an extra inch - lol.
RocketViper, Rick Rockett here. :thumbsup:

I just started a thread on this very same issue ...tie rod hitting the torsion bar ...actually, my zerk fitting on RH side.

My center link is 2" higher on the RH end, but fortunately no oil pan issues. Have you tried the 73-74 idler arm? FBBO member '70 RR' said that gave him 3/4" clearance on his oil pan. That's likely to give me an extra inch or more at the end of my center link. I'm curious if you had success going with the 73-74 idler arm.

Thanks.
 
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