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strange regulator problem

RT SE 440

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Hello guys upgraded my ignition from point to a electronic ignition so i decided since it's all electronic I'd upgrade the regulator but this is the strange part i start the car and the dash amp meter is off the scale so i put a multi meter on the battery and it's over charging up to 18v.So i put the mechanical regulator back on & things go back to normal charging volts but before you say just use the mechanical the electronic ignition i am using says only use with a electronic regulator. I'm confused to why the electronic regulator reacts this way
 
i was thinking so but it doesn't seem burnt on the circuit board but then again maybe it cant be seen the damage that is
 
The new part could be faulty. Or it possibly wasn't grounded well. If a regulator isn't grounded, it will overcharge.
Doug
 
i was thinking so but it doesn't seem burnt on the circuit board but then again maybe it cant be seen the damage that is
If the old one works, use it. So many of the new electronic regulators cause the system to overcharge. A bad ground can cause that as well.
 
Really depends on what they are set at from the factory. The mechanical ones you can adjust at least.
 
I have an FBO ignition module which calls for an electronic regulator
 
Your kind of stuck then. You have the older style regulator but electronic?
 
Unfortunately sounds like it is bad. By chance any one around have a tester?
 
The regulator also needs the correct battery voltage on the blue wire. If the pin on the regulator is not seeing that it will overcharge. I have seen people wire it in off the resistor side of the ballast. No good. I also have seen many bad regulator plugs.
 
Unfortunately sounds like it is bad. By chance any one around have a tester?
Yes....I concur that the replacement regulator is faulty. The electronic replacement voltage regulator uses a TRANSISTOR connected in a current sinking circuit.....which provides a VARIABLE OUTPUT VOLTAGE (0-6 volts...depenging on the battery's charge) to the alternator's rotating field. The OLD MECHANICAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR, provided full battery voltage ....~14 volts to the alternator's rotating field for max charge or ~ 6 volts for ~ half the alternator's output or zero volts to the alternator's rotating rield for zero output by switching the regulator's external resistors. The mechanical voltage regulator constantly switched between these 3 conditions: full voltage, half voltage and zero voltage to the alternators rotating field. The electronic voltage regulator does this seamlessly with a variable output voltage to the alternators rotating field.....yielding a smooth alternator output.....with no moving parts......just my opinion of the differences......
BOB RENTON
 
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The regulator is likely bad. I prefer the 1971 and up regulator that controls the ground side of the alternator field (1971 anu up alternators with both field connections.). I usually use the Transpo C8313 Heavy duty adjustable regulator.
 
One thing I like to do when installing a voltage regulator...
On my 70 RR, the regulator is mounted on a metal plate,
I installed another ground lead from the metal plate to one of
the mounting bolts for the valley cover.... Never hurts to have
an extra ground..

Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
 
One thing I like to do when installing a voltage regulator...
On my 70 RR, the regulator is mounted on a metal plate,
I installed another ground lead from the metal plate to one of
the mounting bolts for the valley cover.... Never hurts to have
an extra ground..

Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
Two grounds is parallel is a good thing whereas two shorts in parallel is bad or is it half as good as one ???? Points to ponder.....
BOB RENTON
 
I am having a similar issue, but mine is a charge, then no charge. Did this last year, replaced the electronic regulator twice to cure it. So what is the answer for a good electronic voltage regulator? Oh, and my car is in the garage right now, it started doing it again on the way to a Mopar get together tonight.
 
In general for these wiring questions, pictures or more information on the condition of the wiring might be helpful. If using the original 50-60 year old wiring, the connectors are likely not making good connections, and even the wire under the insulation might be badly corroded or broken.
 
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