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Stress crack drivers side door

1969CoronetR/T

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My 1969 Coronet R/T developed a stress crack in the drivers side door jamb. Any suggestions on a fix and would the whole side need repainted after the repair?
Thanks,
Mark

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The GTX i am working was the same way.Sand it down and start welding.
 
That's interesting I have the same thing on the passenger side I thought it was just a 20 year old bondo job falling off.
 
I have frame connecting rails I might install, but I would like to keep the car original. Any other weak spots on the B body?
Mark
 
To ensure a good color match, you would paint the quarter and blend the color into the door, and then clear the whole door and the quarter.
 
I have frame connecting rails I might install, but I would like to keep the car original. Any other weak spots on the B body?
Mark

I also seen stress cracks on the inside of the doors, by the vent window or up front were the cowl meets the roof pillars.
 
Wow and all this time I thought it was just my crappy car with a built 440.
 
It is in the shop for a complete repaint and repair to the stress crack. I may need a new deck lid, but will have to wait to see once it is stripped. Anyone have a deck lid and power bulge hood for sale? I do not think anyone is reproducing them for the aftermarket.
 
I had the same crack on my 68 GTX. Welded it up before i repainted it.

Dave F

Same her on my '68 Coronet and my '69 Roadrunner......Funny that there's guys here that made a couple hundred passes with their High performance big blocks at the strip and had no cracking. Guess all our cars were just built worse.

Good luck on your hunt 1969Coronet440..Neither one of those are available in metal aftermarket and both are tough to find OE.
 
Same her on my '68 Coronet and my '69 Roadrunner......Funny that there's guys here that made a couple hundred passes with their High performance big blocks at the strip and had no cracking. Guess all our cars were just built worse.

Good luck on your hunt 1969Coronet440..Neither one of those are available in metal aftermarket and both are tough to find OE.

depends on whether its a hardtop or sedan. post or no post.
 
Ive got a similar one, gotten progressively worse so get after it. Also have some at rear window corners, on rear quarter on top at the ridge and this one showed up the other day and I am TOTALLY Disgusted. My body guy said it was due to poor prep and the underlayment is separating which allows vibrations to crack the paint layer. I dont think there is a crappy fill job cause this one is on a piece where partial was put in, you can see it from the trunk. Anyway I'm sick about it. He's telling me the best fix is to take the car back to metal and repaint the whole things since it is appearing in various spots. One thing i did notice is there are no places forward of the door jam where this is happening. Any other opinions? dont mean to hijack just bummed like you :hmh: IMG_9124.JPG.jpg
 
My R/T is a hardtop (no post) with the power bulge hood. My Super Bee is a post car and all is well with it so far.
 
I found the other thread you had on this topic. One thing that was interesting was the mention of flexing causing these cracks. Coincidentally, my car was jacked up on one side to investigate a leaky fuel tank. Do you guys think that could have caused the flexing and ultimate cracking in the lower quarter panel shot I posted above?I discovered this crack soon after the car was jacked up.
 
I found the other thread you had on this topic. One thing that was interesting was the mention of flexing causing these cracks. Coincidentally, my car was jacked up on one side to investigate a leaky fuel tank. Do you guys think that could have caused the flexing and ultimate cracking in the lower quarter panel shot I posted above?I discovered this crack soon after the car was jacked up.

Yeowch! Sorry to see it. If you have it happening in other areas, sounds like there was some bad prep all about the car. Your body guy sounds like he's on the right path. I'm sure it will be showing it's ugly face in more areas soon enough, especially since you have cracking in an open area/low stress area of the panel. As far as cracking because of jacking it up on the other side, hard to say. I would think no, but if there's a really poor bond underneath I guess the pressure from the weight pushing up from the extension panel and outer wheelhouse might have been enough to make it give. Best of luck moving forward.
 
Mine had the same. Weld up and repaint.

You can get bolt on frame connectors from JEGS from memory, might be a happy medium if you don't want to weld them in? I'm still on the fence around whether to got weld in's ot not. Apparently the bolt on aren't any where near as good tho.
 
You would need bolt in (i did this after the crack) as the weld in would need you to remove the interior according to Mancini Racing.
 
You would need bolt in (i did this after the crack) as the weld in would need you to remove the interior according to Mancini Racing.

not necessarily. depending on the style. I have seen some bars that dont come near the floor. No need to mess with the interior with them. And i have seen some that come through the floor a couple of inches. Only in full on race cars though.
 
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