striped k member threads

[big66440]

i was cleaning my k frame today and realised the 2 bolt holes that are threaded to hold the steering box in place (the 2 vertical ones closest to the engine)are stripped, i'm thinking of using a helicoil or simply running a longer bolt and nut combo,any suggestions?

 

[HitIt]

I'd run a nut and bolt personally, grade 8.

I've had my steering box loosen with loctite on the bolts only because the specified torque is only 50ft lbs. With the grade 8 fasteners you can go 80+ ft lbs and keep it good and snug.

 

[big66440]

im just worried ill have a hard time keeping the nut in place if the box ever needs to be removed once the engine and rest of the suspension is in place,im glad its not the single bolt closer to the wheel then it would be a real bitch.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Those bolts are either 7/16-14 or 1/2-13. You might look into drilling and tapping to the next size and enlarging the clearance hole in the box to accommodate. I think there's enough room. If the next US size is too big check the close metric sizes like a 12 mm. Metric bolts with a 10.9 head marking are equivalent to grade 8 and the 8.8 marking is a grade 5.

Of course you can just grab another K member assuming you have the standard and fairly common V8 unit. If you go the replacement route this would be a good opportunity to upgrade to the later style K with the improved motor mounts.

 

[big66440]

You mean 73 up? that means a pretty much complete suspension swap right? I have the magnumforce dropped spindles which are based on the big ball joint 73 up stuff,but you have my mind wondering on the whole K member lower control arm thing are the torsion bars the same? whats needed to make the swap work?

 

[Meep-Meep]

I'm pretty sure the late K member with the improved motor mounts (73 and up sounds right) is a bolt in. The lower control arms I believe have the same mounting arrangement and should just swap over to the new K member. if you have a 69 or earlier car then the sway bar will be different but that's no big deal. There is a later K member that has the transverse torsion bars (Aspen / Volare I think) but I'm not talking about that one.

 

[shag766]

nuts

im just worried ill have a hard time keeping the nut in place if the box ever needs to be removed once the engine and rest of the suspension is in place,im glad its not the single bolt closer to the wheel then it would be a real bitch.

just a thought! use grade 8 nuts & bolts, assemble with no lock washer under nut to really snug and firm, tack weld nuts to frame, reassemble with locks and loctite to specified torque.
short of drilling and tapping it might work and easier than a k switch.
thinking out loud.

 

[big66440]

The whole idea of swapping over to the newer k frame sounds great but I just have too much invested in parts for the 72 and older set up,LCA greasable pins, LCA reinforcing plates,torsion bars I'm just thinking of installing a helicoil with jb weld instead of regular loctite if I decide to keep it, the k frame was not set up for a sway bar and I want to use one can it be modified to work with a sway bar?

 

[Revhendo]

The whole idea of swapping over to the newer k frame sounds great but I just have too much invested in parts for the 72 and older set up,LCA greasable pins, LCA reinforcing plates,torsion bars I'm just thinking of installing a helicoil with jb weld instead of regular loctite if I decide to keep it, the k frame was not set up for a sway bar and I want to use one can it be modified to work with a sway bar?

Just a note. 73 and later B body K frames will not fit in the 72 and earlier cars. It's that whole Iso thing. Heli-coil that bad boy and be done with it.

 

[big66440]

Helicoil it is! what about the whole sway bar thing has anyone here adapted a sway bar to a non sway bar equipped car? if so how bad is it?.