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Sure grip verses cone clutch.

Ive never seen any with clutch material. I’ve been rebuilding since the early 80s. Kim

This is for a Ford diff but some suppliers did similar for the 8.75 in the past...

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On a basic level the cones have a “fixed” breakaway torque. Always the same but decreases as they wear. The clutch types have a base breakaway torque but as torque is applied from the driveshaft that increases. Worn clutch types still lock up under high torque because of this. Worn cones become “one wheel peel” sooner.
 
Boy I sure started something. Got enough info now. Think I will try my cone clutch type and check it out for ware. What I am seeing right off is the pinon and ring gear is worn and need's to be replaced. The old guy up in stark Fl. said they drag raced with them back in the day and would put it up against the clutch type any day. But I am not going to drag race the car may burn some rubber. But like the idea of both tires having traction at the same time so the car dose not drift in one direction. That would be the reason for having a sure grip rear end to me. Thanks guy's for all the information.
 
This is for a Ford diff but some suppliers did similar for the 8.75 in the past...

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Looks like a TracLoc set up? My 2000 Durango had one and at 25k miles it stated chattering really bad so I drained the fluid. In the bottom of the case was this load of goop and I'm thinking it was clutch material. The car wasn't raced or abused unless you consider my wife at the time jack rabbit starts and wait until the last second to stop abuse. In went the new fluid and additive and in less than 5k miles it was acting up again. Another fluid change but this time a bottle of STP went in and it remained quiet all the way up until my now divorced wife burned up the engine. It had just over 100k miles when she left.

The Sure Grip in my Dana 70 chattered with Syn lube which was supposed to have the additive in it so I added a bottle of STP but it didn't help so it all got drained and regular lube went back in with 2 bottles of the Mopar additive and it's better. I can still feel a little bit of chatter but I've only driven it a few miles.

Boy I sure started something. Got enough info now. Think I will try my cone clutch type and check it out for ware. What I am seeing right off is the pinon and ring gear is worn and need's to be replaced. The old guy up in stark Fl. said they drag raced with them back in the day and would put it up against the clutch type any day. But I am not going to drag race the car may burn some rubber. But like the idea of both tires having traction at the same time so the car dose not drift in one direction. That would be the reason for having a sure grip rear end to me. Thanks guy's for all the information.
I've done a pretty good bit of drag racing using the cone unit and they did pretty good. I would however pull it out after a season to check them out. Used to maintain a rear end for a buddy of mine that was racing a fully loaded Challenger running in the 11's. The car even had power windows in it and the cone unit held up quite well in it. And a car can drift to one side or the other during a burnout or pull one way or the other on the launch even with a spool. A variable is track surface or even the car's suspension.....
 
Thinking of a sway bar on the back in the future. But agree it is how a car is set up and track surface. Thanks Cranky.
 
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