Suspension debate, survivor '70 Charger 500

[Triplegreen500]

So, my Charger has SHOT front suspension bushings. Like, if I go backwards about 50' the camber is correct, but as soon as I drive forward 50' the bottoms of the wheels are nearly 1" inboard of the tops of the wheels. They're bad.

My debate, as this is a 100% original survivor, is this: do I get bushings (or new pre-loaded OEM control arms) and put stock stuff back in there? Or, do I get QA1 uppers and lowers and improve ride and handling while performing maintenance? Eventually I want to pull the front drums and upgrade to discs...so I'm not locked into "must...not...change..." for this car or anything like that, but I'm curious if the tubular setup is nice enough to validate the cost, or should I just spring for a set of bushings and be done with it?

It's a stock 318 car, not a "performance" vehicle by any stretch...and it's not going to be. I have other cars (and motorcycles) if I want to go fast; the Charger is simply a cruiser. I just want it to be pleasant to drive, and reliable...

 

[F4R/T]

Well I will say I’d take a little time stock stuff set up properly it will surprise the hell out of ya! The best part is cost! All the fancy stuff doesn’t promise anything.. There is a 69 Bee running around eating German cars for lunch on the twisties.... I’m drawing a blank on who it is.. it’s Blue and kicks tail! Never say never!

 

[Bighouse]

Survivor or not- maintenance is maintenance. If it’s broken it’s got to be fixed. So repaired or upgraded that is your choice, if you rebuild what you have you may surprise yourself and not need to spend the added money on aftermarket stuff.
I say make what you have be the best it can be.

 

[Triplegreen500]

I've also read the QA1 offers an adjustment that you "need" for it to handle better when running radials, that stock stuff doesn't?

Admittedly, I'm still learning about these. I've done plenty of motorcycle setups (street, and track) as well as lots of front-strut work on my FWD turbos, but this is the first torsion bar front end I've had the pleasure of taking apart....

 

[Runcharger]

Put new stock style bushings in. Use the Moog Problem solver upper control arm bushings so you can dial more caster into it.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

QA1 is completely unnecessary IMO...

2 MOOG K7103 These are the offset bushings Sheldon mentioned

2 DELPHI TD4895W These are the lowers, in the past I've always used MOOG but they outsourced them & there have been problems.... Never used the Delphi bushings but they are MOOG so hopefully...

1 MOOG K7016A Strut rod bushings, can find the superior steel lined bushings anymore

2 MOOG K772 upper ball joints

1 ACDELCO 45D2003 R lower ball joint

1 ACDELCO 45D2004 L lower ball joint

 

[R413]

The stock parts and bushings work great. Especially on a 318 cruiser car. Just need a good alignment shop that knows older cars. The local tire store is probably not the place.

It is 52 years old, it need freshened up. I see no need for any aftermarket parts on this car.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

The stock parts and bushings work great. Especially on a 318 cruiser car. Just need a good alignment shop that knows older cars. The local tire store is probably not the place.

It is 52 years old, it need freshened up. I see no need for any aftermarket parts on this car.

Alignment specs...

As much caster as the car will allow
.5-.7 negative camber. In the past I limited the camber to .5 but some tire wear for improved handling when the tires are being replaced due to age rather than wearing out seems a good trade....
1/8 toe

 

[tmaleck]

Why not bolt on improved parts? Put the stock stuff in a box and hang on to it. Better caster, lighter unsprung weight and improved handling. Seems like a no brainer. You might consider a rear sway bar too. These are 2 ton cars, but they respond to modern parts and alignments.

 

[F4R/T]

Calling@ superbeemike
You need to get a hold of him for your b body updates.

 

[Kern Dog]

I've also read the QA1 offers an adjustment that you "need" for it to handle better when running radials, that stock stuff doesn't?

Admittedly, I'm still learning about these. I've done plenty of motorcycle setups (street, and track) as well as lots of front-strut work on my FWD turbos, but this is the first torsion bar front end I've had the pleasure of taking apart....

My upper and lower control arms are stock but I have the offset bushings in the UCAs. I was able to get 4 degrees of caster with my car.
Rubber LCA bushings are great....They transmit less vibration than urethane and still allow for great handling.
There are a few other small changes you can make to get the alignment in a more favorable setting.