I just want it to feel better,a little tighter.
I am amazed that you would spend over 5k for an alterkation front end when you can solve your issues for a few hundred bucks and some attention to detail. First let's go over some basics. The tubular upper arms won't do anything more to tighten up the car than a set of poly bushings will - the tubular arms give you more adjustment for castor and really aren't necessary for the street. The reinforced lowers would reduce flex but you aren't auto-xing the car so another case of wasted money. The quick ratio arm will decrease your steering input, which I guess would make the car feel more sporty and won't hurt anything, so go ahead.
Now, what you SHOULD do. HD strut rods and bushings, and properly rated torsion bars for your drivetrain. Subframe connectors will actually stiffen up the car pretty well. You have a new steering box (I am guessing power) but everything that hooks up to it is most likely mush; some gussets to stiffen the box mount on the K, sector brace, solid tie rod sleeves, HD tie rod ends. The factory pot joint on the column can lead to problems, but the solution, a borgeson style u-joint, can reduce the life of the stock steering column bearings. So you have to decide what you want to do on that. If you do have a power box then you can probably stand to decrease the pump assist to get rid of that "floating" feeling.
If you are going to buy "good" shocks, I'll tell you now that KYBs are not "good" shocks. Either pony up for the real deal or go with Monroes. Also, tire sidewall flex will add to the sloppiness, but you need to make the call as to what looks good to you. Low profile tires on a classic car? Not my thing, but there is an advantage.
You didn't say much of anything about what you are working on, but you do mention a 69 roadrunner in another thread so I have to assume that's what we are discussing. If it's another chassis then you might have more work to do.
