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tapered axle

flatheadgary

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does anybody know where to get the tool to remove the axles from my '63 belvedere. not the hubs, i got that one. i may have to make one.
 
I made something to use with a slide hammer. It is deep enough to fit a ratchet and socket to snug up the castle nut. I still had to heat up the housing to release it.
20190630_093704.jpg
 
I always just take a large wrench, with a big enough opening to slide over the threads. Then put the axle nut back on and snug it up against the wrench. Then just rap from the 'inside' on the body of the wrench with a large hammer. Sometimes a little heat helps, but I've always gotten them out successfully.
 
After removing the nuts attaching the bearing retainer & the brakes are removed, reinstall the drum, do not seat the drum, just slip it back into place... Reinstall the nut about four threads... Now grab the drum & pull, when the drum hits the nut the shock should pop the axle out... It may take a few tries.... I've never had it fail..
 
well, i made me one of those tools you guys show. whacked it 3 times on one side and 6 on the other and they popped out slick as you please. thanks a bunch!!
 
well, i made me one of those tools you guys show. whacked it 3 times on one side and 6 on the other and they popped out slick as you please. thanks a bunch!!

Watch for shims, normally found on the passenger side but they have been found on the drivers side. That's what they use to set the axel bearing preload.
 
yea kid. there were 3 shims on the drivers side. thanks for the replies. i am changing the third member, do i have to set the preload again for the new one?
 
Yes. Make sure the third member you are installing has the thrust block buttons. They are what the axel ends but up against to set the preload from one side to the other. Hope you have the factory service manual for the specs.

The '62 used two different lenth axels. One lenth for the open rear and a different lenth for the sure grip. A shorter axle was used for the sure grip. I'm not sure if 1963 did this.
 
Are you changing from a open rear to a sure grip or the other way around?

A Chrysler 8-3/4" Rear Axle Guide, Part II
Section 1: Thrust Block Variations
There was a difference in thrust blocks prior to 1964 that make center section interchange, as well as axle interchange problematic. The thrust block, or "axle shaft thrust spacer", it is a block that both left and right axles butt up against inside the center of the differential. Prior to 1964, all open differentials used a thrust block was approximately 1/8" to 1/4" thicker than units made after 1964. The Sure Grip thrust block prior to 1964, however, was indentical to all 1964 and later Sure Grips and open differentials. In 1964, the thrust block width was changed to match the Sure Grip thrust block width.

This difference in thrust blocks between Sure Grip differentials and open differentials required that two different axles be produced for each 8-3/4" housing manufactured. This is true of all 1959-1963 cars with 8-3/4"s.

A 1964 and later differential, or any Sure Grip differential, cannot be used with 1959-1963 rearends and axles originally equipped with an open differential. The original axles must be machined or original Sure Grip length axles must be used.

https://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/875axle.shtml
 
i guess it would be helpful if you knew what i was doing. i have a '63 belvedere and i had a leaking pinion seal and now it is howling. i also have a dodge pickup box trailer with the tapered axle rear. i don't know exactly what year it is though. i was just going to use the shims from the dodge axle when i put the diff in the belvedere. i do need to measure to see if they are the same width. would i be better off just putting a later model diff and cut the ends of the axles?
 
Good chance your third member in your truck trailer is a 741 and it will bolt right into your '63 housing. Then just use the axels from your '63. Make sure the thrust block buttons are in place. Then you'll have to check the bearing preload.

Now if the third member from your trailer is a sure grip then you'll have to use the trailer axels if the housing measures the same as your '63. If it doesn't measure the same then you'll have to shorten the '63 axels. Check on the ring gear for the year and gear ratio.
 
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