The Official Rear Main Seal replacement thread

2blader

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On factory seal holder the little nubs for oil pan bolts can hit #5 cap. I grind mine a little as a precaution. After market cap I'd check it.
Not a factory seal holder. Have a annoed blue Mopar one and a fast fish unit. TBH I do not think anything in this Barton engine is a factory part except maybe a replacement block.
 

2blader

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BTW thanks for all the help. It is greatly appreciated. I went so far as to check the oil galley plugs in the back of the block. Yea, that far.
 

2blader

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Whelp trying a BEST Rope seal while in the car. Yea, I know. Will let ya know hoe it goes and if it goes well a step by step after I am done.
 

Nevada dan

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Sorry about the gap in response I’ve been busy
I miss spoke , I meant the retainer not the main cap
Like someone else was pointing out The retainer can bind on the bolts and cause leaks
 

2blader

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Sorry about the gap in response I’ve been busy
I miss spoke , I meant the retainer not the main cap
Like someone else was pointing out The retainer can bind on the bolts and cause leaks
No worries. It is called life. Both retainers that I have are clearanced. I have a few other ideas and will report back when I have more info.
 

Doorkicker

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@2blader ... I'm hanging on your every word. I'm in the process of putting in a seal. Engine in the car, everything torn down and clean. Now just waiting to get up the nerve to put it back together. Really interested in how you're making out.
 

2blader

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@2blader ... I'm hanging on your every word. I'm in the process of putting in a seal. Engine in the car, everything torn down and clean. Now just waiting to get up the nerve to put it back together. Really interested in how you're making out.
LOL hang tight as I am having issues. What seal are you using? Scott
 

2blader

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@2blader ... I'm hanging on your every word. I'm in the process of putting in a seal. Engine in the car, everything torn down and clean. Now just waiting to get up the nerve to put it back together. Really interested in how you're making out.
Whelp it looks like I have it licked. I will write up a long response later on. The short one is I used the anno blue MOPAR retainer, Fel pro 2 piece seal, and did not use the side seals. I used the RIGHT STUFF where needed. I also removed .012 from the top of the retainer. I read somebody tried it and was at the last thing to try. Also with the way the retainer can move around I made two alignment pins from bolts. If you remove the rear main cap you can move the retainer up and down to see where your retainer must be for the seals to align. Mine had to be pushed all the way forward and then tightened down. Ran the car 20 minutes pulled the scattershield off and the flywheel and it was dry as a bone. Next is to put it back together and drive it. Hopefully it stays that way.
 

2blader

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Also for those without a milling machine to remove the .012 of aluminum you can use wet dry sand paper 400 grit, wd40 for lube. I have a heavy piece of steel that is flat I used with some strong magnets to keep the paper flat. Then just move the retainer side to side until the proper amount is removed. I checked many many times to make sure it was square and correct with a digital caliper. The small magnets are an awesome addition in the shop. I use them to hang a plastic garbage bag under the crank to keep all the oil dripping on the floor. KEEP track of how many you use so you can make sure NONE moved onto a crankshaft counter weight or something. The blue pins help with installation of the one piece gasket and pan. Screw them into the pan bolt holes and then the gasket snaps up and then the pan. They keep everything aligned and free your hands from holding stuff up. Last pic is of applicators I get from amazon. These help in cleaning in tight places like the upper seal cavity and also applying sealant neatly. I use them all the time even for applying a nice even amount of grease or oil on something. Be careful with the magnets they are no joke as they snap tight like you can never imagine and can give ya a blood blister. NOT for kids. Magnets are from Amazon.

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2blader

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In short the BEST rope seal is a great item and well made. I did drop the crank a tad and got the seal in and trimmed-YUP I did. In the end the engine spun the seal. Odd even with the pin. It was tight and after seeing that installation tool that may be the trick to PACK it tight. I tried but didn’t make it work on my first time and went back to the regular seal types.
 
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