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This car is fighting me from getting finished.

I don't understand your statement. Are you saying a 190 is the way to go?
I guess what I'm saying is the thermostat doesn't determine what temperature you engine runs at, the cooling system does. I have a 190 stat and it runs 190, 200 sitting still. I'm sure it would do the same with a 160 stat and I actually know it would as it's what I had in it previously and it ran the same 190/200 day in day out for the past 40 years !
 
The slowest drain on plant earth I swear it would take 2 days to drain the system lol.
...You're removing the cap first I hope!
I prefer to just a put a brass hex-head threaded plug in my radiators instead of those godawful petcocks....they sure can be slow sometimes.
 
...You're removing the cap first I hope!
I prefer to just a put a brass hex-head threaded plug in my radiators instead of those godawful petcocks....they sure can be slow sometimes.
Ya I always remove cap so it can get air and drain faster.
 
Ok I put in a 160 50/50 antifreeze and water wetter and now the hottest it gets sitting idling is 198 after driving around. It never hit 200 so for now I'm feeling a bit better. Still shifts into 3rd like garbage though and my TTI exhaust is so tight up under car it's just barely touching the torsion support and is driving me insane in the car. I tries loosening clamps and and prying it down a little but no go. It fits great otherwise.

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Just a suggestion, another item you might
consider is a trans oil cooler (you didn't
mention one in your write up). You'll want to
cool the oil down before it is run into the
radiator. Mine is thematically controlled
and incorporates a 5" fan. It brought my
cooling temp down 5 deg.
 
spoke too soon. I drove around for a little bit last night and it climbed back up to 208 degrees. Not sure what's up I did notice the manifolds seem to get really hot so I temped them with a temp gun and they were reading over 700 degrees that can't be right you can actually see the coating being ruined on my Mopar Performance valve covers.

valve cover discolor.jpg
 
As forphorty brought up, retarded timing will
have an effect on coolant temps. You mentioned
you're running two electric fans. What is your
thermostat settings on those fans, and what is
the total CFM? With a 3 core rad on a 440 you
need at least 3,000. T-stat set at 185 to turn
them on. You should also check for a lean
condition in your EFI setup.
 
As forphorty brought up, retarded timing will
have an effect on coolant temps. You mentioned
you're running two electric fans. What is your
thermostat settings on those fans, and what is
the total CFM? With a 3 core rad on a 440 you
need at least 3,000. T-stat set at 185 to turn
them on. You should also check for a lean
condition in your EFI setup.
the fans are supposed to be 14 or 1,500 cfm each and I have one set to turn on at 150 and the other is set to 180 and I have a 160 thermostat.
 
The exhaust temps sound a little high - have you considered you may be running a little too lean on the primary side?
 
I'm finally close to the end of this 318 to 440 swap in my 73 Roadrunner but it's fighting me. I say 318 to 440 swap but really it's a complete drivetrain swap including the 440 I rebuilt and a 727 trans I also rebuilt as well as a complete front end and suspension rebuild. The engine is a 440 bored 30 over with speed pro six pack pistons, comp 284H nostalgia cam, Edelbrock E street 75cc heads, smith bros push rod's, PRW steel 1.6 ratio rockers, all running on Edelbrock E street Efi and being cooled by a champion 26" 3 row with a shroud and 2x12" fans also being controlled by the edelbrock efi system. The trans is a 67 727 I rebuilt and installed a Transgo TF2 shift kit and I also installed a mid 70's valve body in as the original had cracks in it. I used an A&A transmission 26-2800 stall converter per their recommendation. The first of the issues I've been dealing with is heat. The engine seems to run pretty hot and by the digital gauge in my edelbrock efi it runs from 203f to 214f and this is with straight water and a 195f thermpostat. when it says it's 214f it seems very hot and underhood temps get high as the efi has registered that it was too high at one point though when I took a picture of the factory guage at the same time it registers normal. The other main problem I'm running into is the trans shifting. When I set the TV cable to have the lever full with full throttle it would shift 1st to 2nd perfectly but would never shift to 3rd. I loosened the cable a bit and I can get it to shift to 3rd now but I have to be easy on throttle then left off gas when I think it should shift and it does but if I'm on it it never seems to shift. I've been battling these problems and it is really starting to get frustrating after a month and a half of working on the car every free moment lol.

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Have to say welcome to the club. A few good ones here all I can is slow down an do it right.
 
You might try pressurizing your cooling system
(cold) and checking for external/internal leaks.
Could be a blown head gasket, bad radiator cap,
bad water pump, blocked water jacket, plugged
oil galleries.
Hang in there! You'll eventually get 'er figured
out.
 
You might try pressurizing your cooling system
(cold) and checking for external/internal leaks.
Could be a blown head gasket, bad radiator cap,
bad water pump, blocked water jacket, plugged
oil galleries.
Hang in there! You'll eventually get 'er figured
out.
Heck we all will hopefully in time.
 
I have 160 thermostat I could use but assumed since I'm running hot it would just stay open and cause the coolant to not spend enough time in the radiator and compound the issue.
That is an old and incorrect assumption. By letting the coolant stay in the radiator longer, you're also letting it stay in the engine longer collecting more heat.
 
Did you burp the system, sounds like airpockets in the block. Also, are you running an MSD? If so, what did you use for a timing light?
 
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