Three-on-the-tree won't go into 1st, reverse

[JoshS]

Hi all,

New member here. My 66 Belvedere is my first B body, thought I've had a couple A bodies in the past.

I just bought a mint 66 Belvie with a slant six and three on the tree, 46,000 miles. My mechanic just put in a new clutch, and now it won't go into 1st and reverse. It grinds horribly. He's put different grades of fluid in, and nothing.

We're quite stumped. If it helps to know, he put in another new clutch last week that turned out to be the wrong size. The distributor shipped the 10-inch, which they claimed was compatible, when it really needed the 9 and 1/4. Now the correct one is in, but we can't figure out the grinding problem.

If anyone can offer advice, I'd be grateful.

Also, how do I know what my transmission is called? For example, I know the 904 is the venerable automatic, but what's the label for this three-speed manual?

Thanks!

 

[yellowdartdave]

The clutch linkage needs to be adjusted.
It is not releasing all the way and 1st and reverse are not syncronized so it makes it really hard to get it in either gear.

 

[JoshS]

Thanks Dave. I'm collecting as many possible responses to give to my guy at the shop Monday morning, and this is really helpful.

It ground a little when the old worn clutch was in, even at a dead stop, but nothing like this. I had a feeling the clutch must not be fully disengaging if I can't even get it into gear. Even shifting up to second then down into first won't stop the grinding.

 

[yellowdartdave]

Hopefully a simple adjustment will solve the problem.

 

[Meep-Meep]

I always start with the clutch linkage adjustment. If the clutch grabs right off the floor then it's probably not releasing quite enough and the rotating components are probably dragging the disk enough to cause the grinding.

Sounds like a great car! Post some pics.

 

[JoshS]

She's home. .

Well, the mechanic decided that the new clutch plate, despite supposing to be the correct one, just had too many springs on it causing it to push too much and keep the clutch from fully disengaging. So he put the old one back on, and has a new one on order from Year One auto. Should be here in a few weeks.

Meanwhile, the car's totally driveable. It's still get a little bit of torque in the tranny from the engine even with the clutch fully pushed down. But from a dead stop, a quick shift into second to take advantage of the syncro then down into 1st makes it seamless - no grinding.

My camera's crappy, but here are some shots:

http://img23.imageshack.us/g/francinewheel.jpg/

 

[Meep-Meep]

If you have to bump it into second before going into first then it's still dragging.

Yeah, I suppose a heavy P plate could find a lot more slop in all the pivot points in the linkage thereby eating up your travel. I would also make sure all the shifter bushings in the column are tight. Nothing like a good 'ol fashioned linkage jam as the light turns green to expand your vocabulary!!

The car looks very clean!

 

[JoshS]

Bushings - good idea, Meep. That crossed my mind a while ago, but I forgot. Thanks for the reminder.

Yes, it's very clean! I get stopped all the time by people who want to reminisce about their Mopars. Took it to an upholsterer today to get estimate on minor repairs to the rear seat cushions, and he tried to buy it off me on the spot for 5K. He said if I played my cards right, I could get a bit below 20K for it, since it's all original. I don't know about that, but she's not for sale.

Dread carburetor issues tonight. Couldn't get her started, then flooded the engine. Holding it to the floor and cranking long didn't help - it would rumble and catch, but never fire up. Sigh. I remember what a pain the carburetion is on these things.

 

[bluefury]

I just bought a mint 66 Belvie with a slant six and three on the tree, 46,000 miles. My mechanic just put in a new clutch, and now it won't go into 1st and reverse. It grinds horribly. He's put different grades of fluid in, and nothing.

Sounds like an adjustment issue to me. Did you change the throw out bearing...? Your disingagement pedal heigth should be in the upper 1/4 to 1/2 of the pedal travel, not on the floor.

What happens when you shut the engine off.... place the selector into reverse or 1st.... and restart the engine...?

I think I would be a little suspect of your mechanic's abilities to solve what seems a simple problem.

As for the hard starting..... check the fuel filter....Fuel pump pressure, needle and seat in the carb..... ballast resistor...... (Always carry a spare one of these, a jumper wire between the resistor connectors is a quick check but don't run it that way for long).

Good luck.... enjoy your car....

 

[Coronet 500]

Hey JoshS, my suggestion would be to ask your questions here before throwing too many parts at it. Start a new thread for each question and you will get prompt answers. It's a shame when I read how a guy is so frustrated then comes here to find the cheap, easy and correct answer that would have saved all his grief. Think about a splash shield and siliconing your wires and cap, my 64 slanty would die if I went through a large puddle. The motor would collect the splash and direct it right to the distributor. Got my license in a 67 Belvedere.