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Throwout bearing touching fingers.

TallGuy71

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Merry Christmas everyone! I don’t expect a reply today hoping that yall had more important things to do but thought I’d hop on here and ask a question. What am I doing wrong? On my father’s newly acquired 71 RR 4sp the transmission was slipping out of gears. I diagnosed issues in the z bar assembly. Proceeded to rebuild and reinstall all of that linkage. Once it was all in, the clutch pedal would not return to the up position so that I had to add a second spring to make it return. I took off the splash shield underneath the clutch to make sure everything looked right inside. I noticed that it seems like the throwout bearing is touching the fingers of the clutch plate even though I had the fork rod adjusted all the way back. What should my next step be?
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At a glance it looks like the wrong throw out bearing. Is there any room towards the back of the transmission for the throw out bearing to slide back? It looks so large that there is no room???
 
I understand there are 2 different length throw out bearings in common use. You may have the long one installed. My impression is the short one is probably for diaphragm clutches, which it appears you have a Centerforce one. The long one is probably for the original long style clutch.
 
You are running an aftermarket clutch I believe @AR67GTX answered your question. Did you look to see if they have 2 different throw out bearings?
 
You are running an aftermarket clutch I believe @AR67GTX answered your question. Did you look to see if they have 2 different throw out bearings?
I’m going to have to look trough the paperwork that came with the car. It was purchased a few months ago but we got a ton of receipts with it.
 
Don't run it that way. If the bearing goes bad, it will tear up the pressure plate. it looks awful long. It should have a gap of 1/4-3/16".
 
Please never work on my cars...
Ok experts, what is wrong with the 2nd picture posted?
Do you think the problem starts here?
Yep, that's ugly. Wrong TO bearing for the pressure plate..I'm not a fan of the linkage pictured either. It's a hack job.
 
I would start by disconnecting the rod from the fork.
If you can get the proper clearance without the rod, then the problem lies with the linkage.
Otherwise the problem is between the fork and the pressure plate.
 
I'm not real familiar with diaphragm clutch issues.
However. I think I'd try to determine how "thick" the clutch disc is and if the pressure plate has been shimmed out from the flywheel needlessly(?).

MP offers this "fixture" drawing below for setting PP finger height. Unfortunately, they offer zero instruction.
My take on it...
.310" = disc thickness
1.700" = INSTALLED finger height for B&B style PP. This dimension may be useful for comparison.

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Please never work on my cars...
Ok experts, what is wrong with the 2nd picture posted?
Do you think the problem starts here?
I’m working through and fixing obvious issues that were created by the previous owner and other shop mechanics. Also coming here for help trying to learn how to do it properly. Thank you for your great advice oh wise one. What is the issue that you see so that I can fix it.
 
I would start by disconnecting the rod from the fork.
If you can get the proper clearance without the rod, then the problem lies with the linkage.
Otherwise the problem is between the fork and the pressure plate.
The fork is resting as far forward as it will go so the issue definitely seems to lie within the length of the bearing retainer and throwout bearing.
 
Yep, that's ugly. Wrong TO bearing for the pressure plate..I'm not a fan of the linkage pictured either. It's a hack job.
That’s been my diagnosis too. So next step is pull the trans out right? Then measure from the back of the bell housing to the fingers, and start my caluculations from there? Just trying to put the plan in motion before I start taking stuff apart.
 
Yep, that's ugly. Wrong TO bearing for the pressure plate..I'm not a fan of the linkage pictured either. It's a hack job.
It was a complete mess before and I thought that was where the issue was at. I just rebuilt everything and put it back in, when I got everything in and realized it still wasn’t lining up correctly I removed the splash guard under the TO bearing to take a look and then saw this issue. I’m aware that the linkage doesn’t look right but it is all technically where it’s supposed to be.
 
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