Throwout bearing touching fingers.

[TallGuy71]

Just wanted to say even with the fun banter, I really do appreciate yall coming in here and trying to help me out. I’ve done a lot of work on 71s before but this is my first experience wrenching on a 4 speed, so I’m learning as I go. It’s a Brewer built Hemi 4sp that we have documentation of other shops working on it trying to resolve an issue with 4th gear slipping so I know there were quite a few hands on it in between then and now. First time my father took it out it when 20 miles before it started slipping like no other, we’re guessing that’s why the previous owner wanted to sell it. But I do believe it’s something I can tackle with help and get this beautiful car leaving some fresh tire marks and miles of smiles thanks to yall.

 

[padam]

The fork is resting as far forward as it will go so the issue definitely seems to lie within the length of the bearing retainer and throwout bearing.

You do have the fork clipped into the pivot, right?

 

[TallGuy71]

You do have the fork clipped into the pivot, right?

Yes, I havnt touched any of that. It still pivots (as I believe it should) when the clutch pedal is pushed in.

 

[Bird 426]

I would question everything. The clutch adjustment rod should have some adjustability, hell of a lot more than that! Inside, there's no room for bearing release, from looking at the picture. So I would question everything from the flywheel to and including the bell crank. Was this always a 4-speed car? BM or SB engine? What year bellhousing? Pivots at the bellhousing can be different over the years if it's a SB. Check and verify everything when you get it apart. Brewers would be a good choice for info.

 

[TallGuy71]

I would question everything. The clutch adjustment rod should have some adjustability, hell of a lot more than that! Inside, there's no room for bearing release, from looking at the picture. So I would question everything from the flywheel to and including the bell crank. Was this always a 4-speed car? BM or SB engine? What year bellhousing? Pivots at the bellhousing can be different over the years if it's a SB. Check and verify everything when you get it apart. Brewers would be a good choice for info.

Copy that, didn't realize they'd all be different. It was always a 4 spd car, originally a 383, now with a 440. Not sure off the top of my head the year on the block or bell housing. I know how to date the block when I get back underneath it, does the bellhousing have a part number to date that as well? I'll definitely be having a long phone call with Brewers when I get a chance. According to their website they are closed until Jan 5th for the holidays which is totally understandable.

 

[Daves69]

Somehow you have 6 pounds in a 5 pound container. Somethings out of whack.
A stock bell is 7.38", there's only so much that can fit in there and still have clearance.

While you wait on Brewers, here's some 4spd bell numbers and info........

http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/4sptech.shtml

 

[TallGuy71]

Thanks Dave

Somehow you have 6 pounds in a 5 pound container. Somethings out of whack.
A stock bell is 7.38", there's only so much that can fit in there and still have clearance.

While you wait on Brewers, here's some 4spd bell numbers and info........

http://[URL]http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/4sptech.shtml

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[Bird 426]

These are out of my Hemi '69 Road Runner. Tired of shifting, went auto.
Fork is 11" end to end, so 10 7/8" is right
Throwout bearing is 2 1/8", colar sleeve to bearing tip
Bellcrank tip to tip is 9 1/8"
Adjuster is as removed, nut and washer in the middle area of rod.
I had a Centerforce flywheel and diaphragm clutch, 11", 142 tooth flywheel
I do not know if BB had different bellhousings through the years, except for the Hemi. The part number should be in the area shown in picture.
Good luck sir!

 

[TallGuy71]

Just measured my z bar and clutch fork, both correct lengths but I feel like you guys are gonna love this. Disconnected everything and the z bar seems to fall perfectly into place where it should be. When Resting where it should be the angle of the pedal rod was WAY off, so I pulled that out to find that someone at some point had welded an inch into the rod itself. Another problem found and will be fixed. But the main problem of the TO touching the fingers still exists. (I know the fork rod is adjusted improperly in this photo.)

 

[TallGuy71]

Is this a spacer between the flywheel and block? And to Bird 426 it is a 66-72 RB 440

 

[Cranky]

Is this a spacer between the flywheel and block? And to Bird 426 it is a 66-72 RB 440View attachment 1968568

Flange of the crankshaft???

 

[TallGuy71]

Flange of the crankshaft???

I believe I can say dumb question acknowledged.

 

[gkent]

I'm not a fan of the linkage pictured either. It's a hack job.

Explain yourself!

 

[Bird 426]

Going to take a swing at someone adding an inch to your clutch pedal rod. I want to laugh at all of the people that get so damn concerned over this. His clutch pedal didn't come up all the way, it's not even with the brake pedal, so he cut and added an inch to it. OMG! If you don't want to modify yours again, Mega Parts has them, under trans parts and the clutch rods and components, $50.
When you get this sorted out, your pedal doesn't have to be even with the brake pedal, as long as you have separation between the pp fingers and throwout bearing. The spring between the fork and bellhousing does that. But, you have a ways to go before worrying about that one.

 

[gkent]

At first glance I was thinking the clutch rod was incorrect and too long but there is clearly not enough room for the throwout bearing to go back any further. Someone suggested the fork and clips should be behind the bearing. Those little divots (circled) raise some questions but regardless of moving the fork, the bearing still can't go any further back. Conclusion: wrong TO bearing.

However, this would cause a slipping clutch - not a trans slipping out of gear!

 

[davek]

I believe I can say dumb question acknowledged.

We ALL ask dumb questions. Take your time and you will figure everything out. I ask questions all the time,thats what this site is for. I look,google and use our search. A lot of helpers on this site. My Bee was a mess when I bought it so it happens to us all.

 

[gkent]

Looking at Brewers site, there doesn't appear to be any issue with the TO bearing. HOWEVER, looking at one of the OP's pics, the flywheel appears to be thicker than I seem to recall them being - by what appears to be about a 1/2" !!

 

[dadsbee]

We ALL ask dumb questions. Take your time and you will figure everything out. I ask questions all the time,thats what this site is for. I look,google and use our search. A lot of helpers on this site. My Bee was a mess when I bought it so it happens to us all.

Exactly Dave, but I take acceptation when a new guy takes a shot at at long time member with "please never work on my cars". I could supply pictures up the ying yang... but I'm out based on that.

 

[davek]

Exactly Dave, but I take acceptation when a new guy takes a shot at at long time member with "please never work on my cars". I could supply pictures up the ying yang... but I'm out based on that.

Yes I did take offense to that remark.

 

[TallGuy71]

At first glance I was thinking the clutch rod was incorrect and too long but there is clearly not enough room for the throwout bearing to go back any further. Someone suggested the fork and clips should be behind the bearing. Those little divots (circled) raise some questions but regardless of moving the fork, the bearing still can't go any further back. Conclusion: wrong TO bearing.

However, this would cause a slipping clutch - not a trans slipping out of gear!

View attachment 1968657

Thank you! I meant to post before that I mis spoke/typed when I said gear slipping, the problem was a slipping clutch. That one’s on me.