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Timing chain cover timing indicator

1STMP

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This is a 1968 block with what I assume to be
the correct timing chain cover. The lower radiator
return outlet is above the timing indicator. Is this
OEM? I can't see the marks from up top, but can
see about 1/2 of the mark on the ballancer. At this
point, my timing is guesswork. Did the builder
install the wrong pump?
20180424_143753~2.jpg
 
Looks like you have a truck/rv style housing.
 
As the mark can be all over the place for any number of reasons I would find top dead center with a positive stop.
 
As the mark can be all over the place for any number of reasons I would find top dead center with a positive stop.
How is a positive stop set up, and how does that
tell me what the timing is? Forgive my ignorance.
 
@1STMP
There's a lot of great instruction and so forth on finding top dead center on here (use the SEARCH box)
but in a nutshell, get one of these (or make something like it out of an old spark plug):
R.jpg

This rascal is a piston stop. You use it such that it stops the #1 piston safely when used in place
of the spark plug in #1 cylinder.
Insert it, spin the engine (with a big wrench, not the starter!) until the engine stops against the
stop, mark your balancer at the indicated TDC mark on the timing tab, then spin the engine in the
opposite direction until you hit the stop again - and then mark the balancer for that indicated 0 as well.

In my own sloppy-looking example below, my 440's timing tab has the indicated 0 (TDC) as the hole
punched out line there; the hash marks are in 5 degree increments from there (all are BTDC).
See the two little black dots on the lip of the balancer? That's where my engine hit the stop when spinning
it in both directions.
From there, you determine the exact center distance between those two dots and that's the ACTUAL top dead
center - which I've marked with the silver line.

Yes, I got lucky in this instance and the factory grooved line on the balancer turned out to be exactly TDC,
but that can easily not be the case if the balancers' ring has moved/spun on the rubber core of the balancer, too.
As a result of this verification of TDC, I know for fact when I have the silver line directly lined up with the
0 (TDC) indication on the timing tab, that IS the exact Top Dead Center of #1 cylinder - and where you start
actually setting timing on the ignition.
timing marks verified.jpg


Again, there's some really good explanations (better than mine here) on how to do this procedure,
but that's the gist of it.
 
Looks like a cast crank or other RV style balancer, timing cover from that engine too (70’s?), and water pump to boot!
 
This is the one with the converted machined down external balance balancer.
 
@1STMP
There's a lot of great instruction and so forth on finding top dead center on here (use the SEARCH box)
but in a nutshell, get one of these (or make something like it out of an old spark plug):
View attachment 1215597
This rascal is a piston stop. You use it such that it stops the #1 piston safely when used in place
of the spark plug in #1 cylinder.
Insert it, spin the engine (with a big wrench, not the starter!) until the engine stops against the
stop, mark your balancer at the indicated TDC mark on the timing tab, then spin the engine in the
opposite direction until you hit the stop again - and then mark the balancer for that indicated 0 as well.

In my own sloppy-looking example below, my 440's timing tab has the indicated 0 (TDC) as the hole
punched out line there; the hash marks are in 5 degree increments from there (all are BTDC).
See the two little black dots on the lip of the balancer? That's where my engine hit the stop when spinning
it in both directions.
From there, you determine the exact center distance between those two dots and that's the ACTUAL top dead
center - which I've marked with the silver line.

Yes, I got lucky in this instance and the factory grooved line on the balancer turned out to be exactly TDC,
but that can easily not be the case if the balancers' ring has moved/spun on the rubber core of the balancer, too.
As a result of this verification of TDC, I know for fact when I have the silver line directly lined up with the
0 (TDC) indication on the timing tab, that IS the exact Top Dead Center of #1 cylinder - and where you start
actually setting timing on the ignition.
View attachment 1215596

Again, there's some really good explanations (better than mine here) on how to do this procedure,
but that's the gist of it.
Thats what I do to for finding/verifying tdc. When you mark it, run a stripe from the outer ring to the inner too. That way you can watch out if the outer starts to slip due to the elastomer going away.
 
Thats what I do to for finding/verifying tdc. When you mark it, run a stripe from the outer ring to the inner too. That way you can watch out if the outer starts to slip due to the elastomer going away.
Excellent suggestion, thanks!
 
@1STMP
There's a lot of great instruction and so forth on finding top dead center on here (use the SEARCH box)
but in a nutshell, get one of these (or make something like it out of an old spark plug):
View attachment 1215597
This rascal is a piston stop. You use it such that it stops the #1 piston safely when used in place
of the spark plug in #1 cylinder.
Insert it, spin the engine (with a big wrench, not the starter!) until the engine stops against the
stop, mark your balancer at the indicated TDC mark on the timing tab, then spin the engine in the
opposite direction until you hit the stop again - and then mark the balancer for that indicated 0 as well.

In my own sloppy-looking example below, my 440's timing tab has the indicated 0 (TDC) as the hole
punched out line there; the hash marks are in 5 degree increments from there (all are BTDC).
See the two little black dots on the lip of the balancer? That's where my engine hit the stop when spinning
it in both directions.
From there, you determine the exact center distance between those two dots and that's the ACTUAL top dead
center - which I've marked with the silver line.

Yes, I got lucky in this instance and the factory grooved line on the balancer turned out to be exactly TDC,
but that can easily not be the case if the balancers' ring has moved/spun on the rubber core of the balancer, too.
As a result of this verification of TDC, I know for fact when I have the silver line directly lined up with the
0 (TDC) indication on the timing tab, that IS the exact Top Dead Center of #1 cylinder - and where you start
actually setting timing on the ignition.
View attachment 1215596

Again, there's some really good explanations (better than mine here) on how to do this procedure,
but that's the gist of it.
Thanks for the explanation, but the problem
is, I can't see the timing mark tab. It's covered
by the hose inlet on the water pump. I can
see 1/2 of the TDC mark on the balancer.
It's a guess as to the timing degrees.
 
Thanks for the explanation, but the problem
is, I can't see the timing mark tab. It's covered
by the hose inlet on the water pump. I can
see 1/2 of the TDC mark on the balancer.
It's a guess as to the timing degrees.
Will you be looking for a more conventional driver's side inlet housing?
 
Looks like a cast crank or other RV style balancer, timing cover from that engine too (70’s?), and water pump to boot!
I know from the casting numbers, the block is
a '68, the heads are 452's, the crank is forged.
It looks like the builder pieced this engine
together with various external parts also.
The balancer was machined for internal
balancing.
 
Can you find a tab that fits on the left side? Maybe get one, then mark the balancer accordingly.
 
Can you find a tab that fits on the left side? Maybe get one, then mark the balancer accordingly.
That would be something to consider, thanks.
It would probably have to be epoxyed on the
cover.
Bring it up to TDC, locate the indicator in clear
view, Mark zero on the balancer.
 
Another suggestion I do on my setup is Mark the balancer degrees with different color paint and write down what color that degree is on the inner fender. Helps when trying to check timing with no shade
 
Thanks for the explanation, but the problem
is, I can't see the timing mark tab. It's covered
by the hose inlet on the water pump. I can
see 1/2 of the TDC mark on the balancer.
It's a guess as to the timing degrees.
You asked "How is a positive stop set up, and how does that tell me what the timing is?"
I answered that question. :)
 
With the lower hose being in the way, could you time from the other side of the car? Of course it can not be #1. Kinda like of setting the dist to a different plug in firing order. If you could then make custom timing tag for cover, slightly adjustable.
 
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