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Timing Marks

Swampdog

Well-Known Member
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Apr 1, 2016
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Location
Breaux Bridge, Louisiana
Where is the timing mark pointer on my 62 383? Drivers side or passenger? My damper is degreed all the way around.
 
Not knowing how your engine could have been 'messed' with. Beware that the 62-65 383's have a different timing zero mark than 66 and later. The chain covers are different. You can tell by the later ones being curved.
Therefore the balancers have differing timing mark location.
 
I will say it again. Must verify TDC mark. Especially factory dampners. The ring will slip on the hub,retarding the timing mark.
 
How often does this happen? I ask because I'm thinking I might have this issue on my car, 400ci, rotor pointing at #1 cyl, piston at TDC and balancer shows 15 degrees BTDC. Balancer looks like it's in great shape and dry as a bone, I don't have any leaks at the front of the engine.
I have a few friends that are mechanics by trade look at me like I have six heads when I talked about this issue- these are mopar guys as well, they had never seen it happen! Me personally, I don't doubt that this issue does occur, just wondering as to its frequency.
 
At risk of opening my self up to all the expects, but the way I see it is who knows where the rotor is in relation to the No. 1 post. But it is in the general area. Here is the way I time my engines. By the way I just installed an electronic dist. and ECM to replace the dual points on my 62 383. I put it on top dead center with the rotor at N0. 1 . Get it warm enough to idle at 800 or so RPM. They I turn the dist. clockwise till I get the highest rpm (and Vacuum) Actually Back and forth till I find the sweet spot. . Then I check it with the timing light. Walah, looks like 15 or 16 degrees. Then drive and see if I have any pinging. If so back it off a little.

Notice I didn't say anything about the vacuum advance because the guy that built the engine (Ben Donhoff) put a ball bearing in the advance hose. I rum my Chevy engines with the Vacuum Advance plugged off also.

I guess it may hurt the gas mileage but if I was concerned about that I would be driving a Pruise.
 
At risk of opening my self up to all the expects, but the way I see it is who knows where the rotor is in relation to the No. 1 post. But it is in the general area. Here is the way I time my engines. By the way I just installed an electronic dist. and ECM to replace the dual points on my 62 383. I put it on top dead center with the rotor at N0. 1 . Get it warm enough to idle at 800 or so RPM. They I turn the dist. clockwise till I get the highest rpm (and Vacuum) Actually Back and forth till I find the sweet spot. . Then I check it with the timing light. Walah, looks like 15 or 16 degrees. Then drive and see if I have any pinging. If so back it off a little.

Notice I didn't say anything about the vacuum advance because the guy that built the engine (Ben Donhoff) put a ball bearing in the advance hose. I rum my Chevy engines with the Vacuum Advance plugged off also.

I guess it may hurt the gas mileage but if I was concerned about that I would be driving a Pruise.
 
It is my thinking that the b block 383 with the 3.375 inch (very short for 383 CI) the piston doesn't travel a lot near TDC and BDC as compared to longer stroke engines. I have always found B Block 383 like a lot of timing. Now I could see the marks with sticking the timing light in the fan belt.

My tab only goes to 10 degrees BTDC so I have to use a set back timing light.
 
This happens quite often. Moreso with hp motors. And all brands. Dont forget,timing covers have the tabs in different positions also. So you gotta check. Swampdogs method was very popular at one time. And it works. Also why some guys swear their old cars ran best with 42° advance.
 
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