Toasted the clutch, only lasted 5000 miles

[Paul_G]

Mcleod dual friction clutch. Very disappointing. It is supposed to handle 500 HP. My 383 was only 300 at best. The car was on the dragstrip a few times, and spent a weekend on the autocross track. The 383 engine is out right now, my 505 stroker is going in. So I have to decide on what to do with the clutch. This is mostly a street car that does see the drags and autocross. I want an easy clutch for daily driving, but as we can see, it did not last long.

I can put a Mcleod ceramic disk clutch plate in it for now. That may fair a little better with the stroker motor.

 

[Runner71]

That looks like Centerforce dual not Mcleod.

 

[Paul_G]

McLeod Racing 75209 McLeod Super StreetPro Clutch Kits | Summit Racing

It is this one.

Mcleod clutches take 500 to 700 mile break in before you can load them fully. I am going to the Duct Tape Drags in 3 weeks. No time to break in a new clutch. I am thinking about just throwing a new disk in it as it is. Give it a quick sanding with a big flat board and a new disk. Either the same dual friction it it now, or full ceramic. Hopefully bypass the breaking in of a completely new clutch. Does that work?

 

[padam]

I run a center force dxf, which has the ceramic pads both sides.
I think it’s actually a little too heavy for my combo but it’s holding up really well.

 

[RemCharger]

The thing that controls clutch life is a drivers leg.

 

[Runner71]

McLeod Racing 75209 McLeod Super StreetPro Clutch Kits | Summit Racing

It is this one.

Mcleod clutches take 500 to 700 mile break in before you can load them fully. I am going to the Duct Tape Drags in 3 weeks. No time to break in a new clutch. I am thinking about just throwing a new disk in it as it is. Give it a quick sanding with a big flat board and a new disk. Either the same dual friction it it now, or full ceramic. Hopefully bypass the breaking in of a completely new clutch. Does that work?

Okay, did not know they had a similiar Im on my third Centerforce dual, I like'em - was thinking on the dxf plate on this last change but my shop did not have it in stock so i went with dual again. The last one lasted 3 seasons and I burn alot of tire

 

[INTMD8]

I don't think a single ceramic/miba disc would hold behind your new engine.

Not sure why your first clutch is that destroyed behind a 383.

(Edit- I see from your old post it was first behind the 505 so not really surprised)



Hydraulic throwout? I'm assuming you had enough free travel and it wasn't preloading the pressure plate.

I use the McLeod RXT with organic discs and it drives super nice. Light pedal and smooth engagement.

How long it would live in a drag racing environment behind a 505 would depend on how much it's slipped.

 

[toolmanmike]

Mcleod dual friction clutch. Very disappointing. It is supposed to handle 500 HP. My 383 was only 300 at best. The car was on the dragstrip a few times, and spent a weekend on the autocross track. The 383 engine is out right now, my 505 stroker is going in. So I have to decide on what to do with the clutch. This is mostly a street car that does see the drags and autocross. I want an easy clutch for daily driving, but as we can see, it did not last long.

I can put a Mcleod ceramic disk clutch plate in it for now. That may fair a little better with the stroker motor.

View attachment 1339641

View attachment 1339642

Roll the pressure plate over and snap a pic of the fingers. How did you adjust it? Is that a 10 1/2"?

 

[Cranky]

It's kinda hard to tell what happened without knowing how you 'leg' the clutch or how you set it up. If a clutch has the right settings and pressure, it shouldn't be slipping like the pics show it has been doing with the power you say it has. How much free pedal did it have and are you 'easy' on lifting off of the pedal during shifts or do you try to make a smooth shift by not letting off the pedal quickly? I've even seen guys using the clutch to keep the car from rolling backwards on a hill at a stop light! That's a big no no too.

 

[INTMD8]

^ I think his previous post goes a way in explaining what happened.

It was first installed behind the 505 which he said easily drove through the clutch.

So, was probably already glazed when put behind the 383. (Just my guess anyway)

 

[Cranky]

^ I think his previous post goes a way in explaining what happened.

It was first installed behind the 505 which he said easily drove through the clutch.

So, was probably already glazed when put behind the 383. (Just my guess anyway)

I'm reading it to where the 505 is going in to replace the 83.....and that's not a good idea either imo.

 

[toolmanmike]

It's kinda hard to tell what happened without knowing how you 'leg' the clutch or how you set it up. If a clutch has the right settings and pressure, it shouldn't be slipping like the pics show it has been doing with the power you say it has. How much free pedal did it have and are you 'easy' on lifting off of the pedal during shifts or do you try to make a smooth shift by not letting off the pedal quickly? I've even seen guys using the clutch to keep the car from rolling backwards on a hill at a stop light! That's a big no no too.

Too many people adjust the clutch by free play at the pedal only. I did that once. I smoked the throw out bearing and it ate the pressure plate fingers. Since then I adjust the air gap between the bearing and fingers. As long as there is a slight gap the clutch will operate perfectly.

 

[Cranky]

Too many people adjust the clutch by free play at the pedal only. I did that once. I smoked the throw out bearing and it ate the pressure plate fingers. Since then I adjust the air gap between the bearing and fingers. As long as there is a slight gap the clutch will operate perfect.

And that should give you some free play at the pedal too, right? At least with a mechanical linkage system I think it should/would. I don't have much if any experience with a juice setup....

 

[INTMD8]

I'm reading it to where the 505 is going in to replace the 83.....and that's not a good idea either imo.

Agreed. This is what I was referring to for context-

Help me pick a clutch set up

 

[toolmanmike]

And that should give you some free play at the pedal too, right? At least with a mechanical linkage system I think it should/would. I don't have much if any experience with a juice setup....

Yes it should. Every linkage piece has a little play where it attaches to the next piece. All that play add up to your free play.

 

[INTMD8]

And that should give you some free play at the pedal too, right? At least with a mechanical linkage system I think it should/would. I don't have much if any experience with a juice setup....

There's no air gap with a hydraulic throwout as there is an internal spring that keeps constant pressure on the pressure plate fingers.

You do have to shim it so it's .175 (or so) from bottoming out however. (as the fingers will move away from the pressure plate and into the throwout as the disc wears)

 

[toolmanmike]

There's no air gap with a hydraulic throwout as there is an internal spring that keeps constant pressure on the pressure plate fingers.

You do have to shim it so it's .175 (or so) from bottoming out however. (as the fingers will move away from the pressure plate and into the throwout as the disc wears)

Is the OP running a hydraulic TO bearing?

 

[INTMD8]

Is the OP running a hydraulic TO bearing?

I don't believe so based on the post I linked from a previous thread. Just mentioned it as Cranky seemed to wonder if a hydro would have free play as well.

 

[Cranky]

I don't believe so based on the post I linked from a previous thread. Just mentioned it as Cranky seemed to wonder if a hydro would have free play as well.

I've driven a few cars with a juice clutch and it felt kinda strange....it was like there was no resistance at all through the full travel but keeping pressure on the fingers doesn't make sense to me. Thing is, not much makes sense to me these days....

 

[INTMD8]

^ It's a rather light spring inside the hydraulic throwout but necessary. Takes up all slack and makes it automatically adjusting. (can easily compress it with 2 fingers)