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Torque Wrench

Red63440

Well-Known Member
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Location
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Looking for a new 1/2” torque wrench and looking for suggestions.
 
I'm happy with my CDI 1/2" torque wrench. I've had it since August 2018; and use it regularly. I bought it from these folks:

https://www.suncoasttools.com/

IMG_20210306_120855405~2.jpg


https://www.suncoasttools.com/crm/PartNumberSearch.aspx?searchkey=12&desc=2503mfrmh
 
Last edited:
Is there a primary usage ? ie; lug nuts vs. connecting rod nuts and headbolts ?
 
I have a CDI as well and am happy with it. I thought when I bought it, I read it was made by Snap On?
 
I have a CDI as well and am happy with it. I thought when I bought it, I read it was made by Snap On?
See picture in post #2. CDI is a Snap-on Company.
 
I just bought a new torque wrench this morning. I put a front wheel bearing/hub on my wife's Explorer. The instructions made it VERY CLEAR that it had to be torqued to 184 ft/lbs. My old antique Craftsman beam type torque wrench only scaled to 140. I researched online and made the decision to go with Harbor Freight's Icon brand 1/2" drive. It ranges 50 to 250 ft/lbs. I used it about an hour ago and was satisfied with it. Cost $110. Lowes had a Kobalt for about $20 or so less, but I read enough reviews to decide to spend the extra $$ on the Icon.
 
Agree with Big Bad Dad. Checkout you tube videos comparing harbor freight torque wrenches to snap on. I put a nine second engine together with a ten dollar hf wrench, no complaints. Lots of anecdotal evidence that they are accurate.
Lots of harbor freight stuff is garbage, but their jacks and torque wrenches have good reputations.
 
Before assembly I adjusted and triple checked the calibration to within about 2 to 3 ft lbs accuracy on my 1/2" hf and all is well 1k miles later.
 
I prefer a beam type for engine building.. but they're not as fun on the rest of the car

One time at the Shop we had scheduled a tester to come and certify torque wrenches so everyone brought what they had at home to check theirs. Found the single beam wrenches were the closest to being accurate. Most all click type were off, probably because of not backing off the torque setting after use. Clickers should not be left under tension.

So don't look down on the simple beam torque wrench.
 
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