Torsion bar adjusters...

[DBuck]

Just completed small to big block conversion on a 69 Satellite. Upgraded torsion bars from .89 to .96 (new bars & adjusters from Mancini). I counted turns (adjustment bolt-30 plus) on removal and intended to start new bars with 17 turns. Started on left side and was getting some resistance at 15 turns still went to 17 turns. Moved to right side and could only get 15 turns in. Went back to left side to back out 2 turns and on the second turn the bolt broke just below the head. I was using a 12" ratchet not a breaker bar or anything extended. Fortunately ride height is close enough I can live with it for now.

Two questions; anyone had this happen or heard of it??? Secondly, any suggestions on relieving tension on that side next time I have to remove that bar???

 

[mmissile]

Did you take the weight off the front end? I've never seen one of those bolts break.

 

[gkent]

You also need to keep the LCA nuts and pins loose till the ride height is adjusted.

 

[threewood]

Yikes! Original or afterarket bolts? Never seen one break either. But taking the load off the front makes it easier to adjust.

 

[DBuck]

Yep, no weight on front end and LCA bolts were loose... kinda strange huh???

 

[DBuck]

Bolts were aftermarket from Mancini; good quality hardened steel by appearance..

 

[moparnation74]

Crap.....That bolt should turn with ease with the load off the suspension....

I would weld a nut to it if you can and back it out.....with it screwed up that tight and if your unable to remove the bolt....time to cut the bar in half...

 

[DBuck]

Don't understand what's got it so bound up... cutting bar was my first thought too... don't know what kinda pop to expect!!! A friend thinks we could release it at the ball joint but I'm leery of that...

 

[Yatzee]

Just completed small to big block conversion on a 69 Satellite. Upgraded torsion bars from .89 to .96 (new bars & adjusters from Mancini). I counted turns (adjustment bolt-30 plus) on removal and intended to start new bars with 17 turns. Started on left side and was getting some resistance at 15 turns still went to 17 turns. Moved to right side and could only get 15 turns in. Went back to left side to back out 2 turns and on the second turn the bolt broke just below the head. I was using a 12" ratchet not a breaker bar or anything extended. Fortunately ride height is close enough I can live with it for now.

Two questions; anyone had this happen or heard of it??? Secondly, any suggestions on relieving tension on that side next time I have to remove that bar???

The treads in the adjusters have collapsed at the point where it stopped. Essentially, the threads on the bolts did not match the female threads of the adjuster bar. It would have been wise to use a chase on both bolts and the adjuster's threads before installing and put a bit of Never Seize on them because the threads on new bolts won't match slightly distorted threads of the adjuster. You've started cutting new threads. Sounds like you peeled a thread. Truth is, the bolts are junk and should be removed, by whatever method, and replaced with quality bolts of the right Rockwell hardness. You'll be glad you did this when the bars start to settle in.

 

[DBuck]

Thanks Yahtzee!!! Most reasonable explanation I've heard... must be a quality issue; no way I should have been able to break a hardened bolt that size with the ratchet I was using...

 

[CoronetDarter]

Fortunately ride height is close enough I can live with it for now.

Two questions; anyone had this happen or heard of it??? Secondly, any suggestions on relieving tension on that side next time I have to remove that bar???

DBuck - it you mean close enough to drive, not really. Changing out the T bars and setting to a different adjustment height changed your front-end geometry. The front end needs to be re-aligned before the front tires get chewed up.

 

[threewood]

Get them out however you can and replace with a used set and they will be good for life. I'm sure there are a few folks on here with a spare set. Just another issue with new parts.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Slowly melt the bolt down with a liquid wrench. When the tentions relaesed cut the bolt off completely and remove the T.
I have had rusted in place bolts break off. Thats where lubrication and patience pays off.

 

[miller]

A friend thinks we could release it at the ball joint but I'm leery of that...

Please...don't do that. You won't like the results!

Try to get both bolts out, whatever it takes. Get all weight off the front end/ground, by jacking up the front. That will relieve bar tension, as much as possible. From the sounds of things, at least one block could have messed-up threads, too.
I've always used door-eze (wax) on those bolts, but anti-seize is good, too.

Good luck on it.

 

[PST]

I have changed upper and lower ball joints numerous times on Mopar torsion bar systems and late model Chevy Truck without back off on the adjuster to release the tension. Support the body of the car with jacks stand and allow the suspension to drop and relax. Them use a floor jack and place it under the lower control arm. Then jack up on the suspension to point of the car is almost lifting off the jack stand thats supporting the body. Then remove the cotter pin on the lower ball joint. Them back the nut off 2 or 3 turns. Then lower the floor jack to put tension on the ball joint, Then either use a pickle fork to break the tension between the ball joint stud and spindle or just smack the side of the spindle with a hammer to release the tension. It will make a noise and the stud of the ball joint will drop to the point of where you backed off the nut. Next jack the lower control arm up so you can them remove the lower ball joint nut. Then lower the jack slowly until all the tension from the torsion bar is release. This should relieve the tension on the adjuster and make it easier to get out.

Thanks
James

 

[gkent]

Support the body of the car with jacks stand and allow the suspension to drop and relax. Them use a floor jack and place it under the lower control arm.

I Agree. You want to unbolt the shock at the LCA and it would be a good idea to slack off the strut rod (I don't think it can be removed) and loosen the LCA pivot.

 

[PST]

Good point! I forgot about the shock.

 

[moparnation74]

Now if all his stuff is detailed...Would it be worth the risk to go that route?

Cut the bar or get the bolt out and be done with it...

 

[PST]

If he takes his time he should not have an issue I work on finished cars all the time for routine suspension. Put a towel or rubber pad on the jack and use a plastic dead plow hammer if need be. A little touch up paint on the suspension is a ton cheaper than a new bar and in some cases retailers only sell them in pairs

 

[PST]

Plus with the tension released on the bar from separating the lower ball joint. He may be able to remove the torsion bar clip slide the bar back and remove the adjuster if there is no tension.