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Torsion Bar Ride / Ride Height

Wijns07

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I got some new rims for my car... and the install has been an education. I had to pull the front hubs and replace the front wheel studs because they were not long enough for my application.

I have been reading quite a few threads on Torsion Bars....and I can't find the answer to my specific question.

I'm hoping to lower the front of my 69 RR an inch or two...and wondering if adjusting the Torsion Bars would be a viable way to do that?

If I do adjust the bars..will that throw off the camber?

I have the car on jack stands.....and the T-Bar adjustment bolts are pretty damn tight...though I can move them.

Do I turn them clock-wise or counter clock-wise to adjust them to lower the ride height? (And is it different per side for the adjustment rotation?)

Thank you,

Wijns

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Did you look into getting different lug nuts instead of changing your studs?
 
I am doing the same with my 69 RR project and i want to put 18 rims on it. I've been told several times adjusting the T bars is fine for about 2 inches of drop, anything much past that you really need drop spindles to do it right. I believe you will need to adjust your camber once lowered. I went with PST tubular UCA's to help keep it in spec. The stock UCA's dont allow for as much adjustment i believe. I'm sure you will get some other members here to add their advice and knowledge as well. Good luck with your project!
 
Did you look into getting different lug nuts instead of changing your studs?

There is no way that any lug nuts would grab.

It wasn't that difficult to do...minus the Washington Sky determining that it would be a good time to unload some rain during the install.

- - - Updated - - -

I'm eventually getting the Alterkation front end...but wanted to put on the new rims in the mean time. Went with 18" front / 20" rear.

Need to drop the front so that it doesn't look so much like a gasser...
 
Turn them counter-clockwise, both sides are the same.

Thank you....that was my missing ingrediant.

One more question.

Do I do it with the wheels raised on jacks...or without jacks and the wheels on the ground?

Wijns
 
Also make sure your car has all four tires on a level surface. Bouncing the front end between adjustment will be required to allow the suspension to adjust to the changes. Take your measurements at heights point of wheel well opening. When you have it right both sides will set at same height. As far as lowering I have gotten away with 3" ground clearance with only a good alignment and factory parts.
 
Also make sure your car has all four tires on a level surface. Bouncing the front end between adjustment will be required to allow the suspension to adjust to the changes. Take your measurements at heights point of wheel well opening. When you have it right both sides will set at same height. As far as lowering I have gotten away with 3" ground clearance with only a good alignment and factory parts.

So you didn't have to get new upper control arms etc to correct the camber?
 
Adjusted OK with stock parts. If you need more caster use Moog off set upper control arm bushings but if everything is tight do not think they will be needed.
 
I looked them up a few weeks back and found them somewhere....sorry, I can't recall where
 
Adjusting the torsion bars also exponentially affects handling characteristics, considering you are changing the compression/rebound rate by adjusting the bar pre-load. Not to mention, it would be real tough (even with offset bushings) to get your camber dialed back in when unloading the bars that much. Hate to say it, but have you thought of using a lower profile tire, if possible? Also, they do make drop spindles for your car.

http://www.magnumforce.com/magnumstore/shop/item.aspx?itemid=5

https://www.performanceonline.com/1962-74-Mopar-A-B-and-E-Body-Drop-Spindles/

http://www.fatmanfabrications.co/products/1957-1988-mopar-dropped-spindles/
 
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What Propwash said. For example, if you've got stock .092" T-bars and drop the front 2 inches, those suckers won't do their job at all and you'll be very squirly in the turns. You'll feel it even at lower speeds around 20mph.

Counter Clockwise loosens the T-bars to drop the front end. Remember that this CCW turn is relative to when you're under the car on your back. So if you're doing it from the front of the car with a long wrench it will actually look like you're turning it Clockwise, but the CCW is how it threads in the direction of bolt travel.

Anytime you adjust the height on these cars you should do an alignment. It can throw the toe out also I believe.

I have Magnum Force 2" drop spindles on my '68. This allows me to lower the front and keep some of the spring characteristics of the T-bars. I'm also upsized from .092" to 1.00" bars to improve things a bit more. If you go with new T-bars, I've had good luck with the ones from Firm Feel and Mopar Performance.

After you adjust and bounce the car up and down a bit, climb in and take it for a drive around the block. Things will settle even more. When I set mine I did this routine 3 times to get it where I wanted. Start with 1/4 turns on each T-bar adjuster to assess how much lowering is happening. You can go overboard really fast. Baby steps...
 
I have never had a torsion bar suspension before. I am about to take them off. I will be asking dumb questions i'm sure. Thanks to all for the great info. I have been reading everything I can about the subject.
 
Torsion bars help racers cheat, too. Richard Petty explained how they got around the minimum ride height with his Mopar stock cars: they'd take out the adjusting bolt and put a plastic cup filled with grease in the hole and put the bolt back in, letting the solid grease add to the ride height. Inspection passed okay, they'd start racing and after about four laps all the grease has squished out and the front of the car was two inches lower than before.
 
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