Towing question

[451Mopar]

Yep, towed the 1969 Coronet R/T from coast of Oregon to Denver with the RamCharger.
Towing on flat road was no problem at all, it was Rabbit Ears Pass 9.426 feet, leading to the Eisenhower Tunnel pass of 11,158 feet that the old 318/727 did not like.

 

[Sixpactogo]

IMO, If you are going to tow a open or enclosed car trailer with anything other than a 1 ton dually, You will want to use an equalizer hitch. Makes all the difference in the world with control and eases the worry about tongue weight. I towed my 26' enclosed Pace trailer with my 78 D 150 club cab and my wife's 2000 Durango with a 4000# car inside a few times with no problem. I would not have even thought about it without that hitch. Nobody flashing their high beams at me at night because of too much tongue weight and no sway.

 

[Runcharger]

I have occassionally towed a 24 enclosed with a 1500 Hemi. It can do it but I would limit it to once a year. If you are towing regularly nothing beats a diesel dually for stability, BRAKES and not whipping a gas engine to death. We have long steep hills where I live.
The trailer brakes should handle the trailer weight and you can use a weight distribution hitch to ensure your tonque weight is correct with a half ton. However going up or down a 30 mile 8% grade give me the diesel dually anytime to keep it as safe as possible.
I currently tow about 600 miles a week with a single wheel, one ton Chebby (not mine and I never will own a Chebby after this one) and a 24 enclosed. The diesel engine brake is a nice feature, the single wheel, 1 ton thing is a joke if you ask me, it would be way better and more capable with a dually setup.

 

[Budnicks]

We do what we need to
with what we have sometimes too

hitch height & trailer loaded properly & level is critical
not *** heavy or tongue heavy

When I was younger & dumber 17-18 y/o
I had a newish (to me)
1976 Chevy 1/2 ton Stepside short Bed P-U,
350cid, TH350, 3.42:1 12 bolt
(it got more than 2 times the milage as my lifted, with Q78 35" boggers
66 W-100 Powerwagon Shortbed with 1 ton 4.56:1 Dana 60's front & rear
a 68 New Yorker 440 Magnum, w-truck 4-speed granny low, transfer case,
PTO & winch, heavy *** Home-Made steel plate bumpers front & rear,
home installed class c trailer hitch/receivers front & rear)
Cheyenne 1500 did have a trailer package from the factory
brake controller inside
overload added leaf/spring over shocks, airbags helpers added
bigger wheels & tires, rated for the extra weight (barely)
pulling a 16' $1,500 (new) Big Tex Trailer,
I was proud it was my 1st
dual axle with trailer brakes on the front axle
that trailer had 2x12" deck boards, all steel,
relatively heavy for a small trailer
I don't remember the actual weight anymore
total weight ready to go was like 10,000# combined

I think the biggest issue was brake capacity,
std disc/drum from the factory & the tow rigs weight
about the same as the trailer & stuff I was towing
not recommended at all

I put 100,000+ miles on it towing all over the western USA
mostly up & down Calif. when we still had almost 20 tracks still
over the Sierras & Cascades too, went to Bandimere
Morrison Co., a couple of times
I hauled either my 67 Camaro Race Car, 2,100#s car
several fuel jugs, spare tires, floor-jack,
plus almost every tool I owned in the back of the PU
or my 23 T Altered 1800#s

sorry no photos of the truck or trailer

I really didn't have much if any issues
I knew how to load the trailer & position the car properly
so it wasn't too nose heavy or, I put most the heavy tools toward the cab
I went all over, I know it wasn't enough truck
but I had the need for speed nothing was going to stop me

I've towed open trailers, aluminum Featherlite & my old Silver 68 RR
with my 1999 SLT Dakota 4x4 5.2 ltr, with full factory tow package
barely a 1/2 ton rating
many times too, no problems ever
It's not ideal, but no issues either
the truck is 4,800, maybe 5,000 full of fuel
& a few tools, maybe 5,200#s
the trailer & with the 3520# RR, was over the weight of the Dakota
grant you, I wasn't towing very far, usually flat-ish ground
to Sacramento Raceway or Sears Point,
up to Redding or Oroville (when it wa still open)
I did tow my next 68 RR I have now from Rancho Murieta (Sac Co.)
down in the valley up here to 'east of Sonora' with a shitload of tools
in the back & car loaded down with a bunch of garage stuff
when I moved the last load...

I have had some great tow rigs,
I currently have a 2002 F350 4x4 7.3ltr PS Dually Diesel
I usually tow with, if I really need to tow something
that's heavy enough to not use the Dakota

I hauled for years with a few old late 80s - early 90s
GM 3500 crew cab 6.3lt diesel, manual or auto, hopped up turbo'd etc.
another 300,000 + miles
or lifted & big tires 95 & a 98 Dodge Power Ram 3500 Cummins 4x4s
I put some 350,000 mile on each, most of it was towing too
it was like a 'New Yorker' compared to what I was forced to use
in my early years (Chevy stepside)

I use to haul all over the USA, in a Kodiac Intermediate
a Featherlite 43ft gooseneck or 45ft fifth wheel triple axle
(depending on what years)
2 car stacked Hauler with living/sleeping quarters
& every extra part/engine/trans & tool you can think of
It was like driving 'your couch' down the highway in comparison

we do what we have to do
I have well over a million miles under my towing belt

if there's a will there's a way, may not be the right way
but we got r' dun

I will say;
get something bigger than you need
in both aspects
tow rig & trailer, you won't regret it
it just makes it so much less stress/worries & so much easier
on everything 'except your wallet'

have fun