Trans cooler rec 727 big block

[68 Sport Satellite]

New 451 big block. 727. Want new trans cooler mounted in front of rad. Was advised to get plate type. Searching summit only shows flex a lite fin type for my 68 b body Plymouth. Advice on a cooler you are happy with? Also heard of things are too cool, sometimes the trans takes longer to warm up for proper shifting.

Here is my old heavy steel cooler. 19.5"x7"x2" with 2 rows 7 tubes each row, 1/4" tubes
Below it is the new flex lite I first ordered. 17x10x3/4 with 8 tubes 1 row 1/2" diam tubes.

Weighs ten times less than old cooler but no brackets included.

 

[MT_Mopar]

I have the same one I believe: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-4126

The one you have pictured is 1/2" tubes? Mine are 3/8"

I had a smaller one and it would not keep the tranny cool enough. I am also using a deep trans pan.

It is amazing how hot they get without proper cooling.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I have the same one I believe: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-4126

The one you have pictured is 1/2" tubes? Mine are 3/8"

I had a smaller one and it would not keep the tranny cool enough. I am also using a deep trans pan.

It is amazing how hot they get without proper cooling.

I just measured the tubes with calipers and they're 1/2"

How does one tell if the trans is not staying cool enough? Can you smell it? Or only if you check the fluid or have a temp gauge?

Anyone running a plate type cooler that's working well and can you post a photo?

 

[HT413]

IMHO, B&M makes the best coolers for the price. They are extremely efficient plate-type coolers plus if they are installed correctly, they have a simple internal bypass system that lets cool fluid past, allowing the trans to warm up properly.

I run mine on my street car with 2 temp gauges - before and after the cooler. When the fluid is cool, the cooler drops the temp by about 5 degrees. when things get up to temperate, it cools the fluid by up to 30 degrees

It's the B&M supercooler 70266. I originally bought it to cool a crazy loose 4500 stall converter I was running on the street. It worked great then and still worked great on a nearly stock B&M converter I've been using for the past couple of years. I've upgraded to a Frank Lupo converter and I expect the cooler to continue to do its job. Last cooler I'll ever need for this car.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-70266

 

[threewood]

I have a Tru-Cool plate type with bypass. Works pretty good for my application (318 poly, 727 w/2500 stall). Main reason I went with this cooler (4707) is that it is set up to accept factory 5/16" hard lines. They have the same model but with 3/8" if that is what you have. Comes with complete install kit but I hard mounted it to the radiator support with a custom bracket.

http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/category/tru-cool-thin.html

 

[MT_Mopar]

Need to run a fluid temp gauge to know where you're at, only way to tell.

 

[aldal]

Need to run a fluid temp gauge to know where you're at, only way to tell.

x2. :headbang: :headbang:

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

IMHO, B&M makes the best coolers for the price. They are extremely efficient plate-type coolers plus if they are installed correctly, they have a simple internal bypass system that lets cool fluid past, allowing the trans to warm up properly.

I run mine on my street car with 2 temp gauges - before and after the cooler. When the fluid is cool, the cooler drops the temp by about 5 degrees. when things get up to temperate, it cools the fluid by up to 30 degrees

It's the B&M supercooler 70266. I originally bought it to cool a crazy loose 4500 stall converter I was running on the street. It worked great then and still worked great on a nearly stock B&M converter I've been using for the past couple of years. I've upgraded to a Frank Lupo converter and I expect the cooler to continue to do its job. Last cooler I'll ever need for this car.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-70266

would you mind posting a photo of it in the car and providing a list of mounting hardware needed? Reviews online show I will need some NPT fittings and mounting brackets. Any trouble with leaks when you first mounted it?

- - - Updated - - -

I have a Tru-Cool plate type with bypass. Works pretty good for my application (318 poly, 727 w/2500 stall). Main reason I went with this cooler (4707) is that it is set up to accept factory 5/16" hard lines. They have the same model but with 3/8" if that is what you have. Comes with complete install kit but I hard mounted it to the radiator support with a custom bracket.

http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/category/tru-cool-thin.html

great info, thanks! Do you have a photo of it in the car?

- - - Updated - - -

So is the consensus that the plate type cooler would be best as opposed to the fin type? I know it cools better due to surface area, but is it overkill for a street car with 2200 stall and the fin type will be just fine? Reason I ask is because I already have the fin type in the original post here at the house, but I was just surprised when I opened the box that there are no mounting tabs since they recommend the zip tie through rad route, which I'm not in favor of. Custom brackets are possible, but I can return and get a plate type if there's a strong recommendation for that. Remember that I already have the internal rad cooler and whichever cooler I install I plan on running the two in series.

- - - Updated - - -

I'm also thinking whatever I install, I should get one with NPT threads instead of hose barbs and connect using AN fittings.

 

[threewood]

Here are a few shots of it installed. 1962 Belvedere. I ran the pressure line to the radiator cooler, out to the top of the trans cooler, and bottom line of trans cooler to return port in transmission.

Pass side is mounted with 2 flush head bolts ( I would have welded threaded studs but engine bay was already painted) and I fabbed the other mount from a spare battery tray bracket. Nothing drilled in front, used existing bolt hole.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

that's slick! I like how you mounted it off to one side to minimize radiator flow interference and also that you used a left over battery tray support (I have 2 of those as well!) with no drilled holes. Thanks for the idea.

 

[threewood]

that's slick! I like how you mounted it off to one side to minimize radiator flow interference and also that you used a left over battery tray support (I have 2 of those as well!) with no drilled holes. Thanks for the idea.

No prob. The cooler has full length mounting tabs on both sides. The pass side tab is wedged between the radiator support and the radiator. Mounted with thin head bolt and nut through the support. It is very sturdy.

 

[CoronetDarter]

Dwayne - very timely, I was just researching tranny coolers too. I went with a Derale 8000 series cooler, bought it through Summit with other parts to get the free shipping. I first talked to a Derale tech support before deciding on the plate & fin. My takeaway is that plate/fin and tube/fin will cool equally well, but the plates being more efficient means a much smaller footprint for the same cooling. The model I got, #13502 is 11" x 7" x 7/8" and weighs only 1 lbs. It has side mounting tabs and zip ties; final positioning will determine how it's mounted.

Derale recommends using the cooler in series with the rad cooler - plumbing it in after the rad output and then tying into the return cooler line, the unit came with all the hardware. I have a temp gauge that still needs to be installed along with the unit. Good luck with your install and I'll keep you posted on my progress.
http://derale.com/products/fluid-co...es-8000-plate-fin2013-10-28-09-53-27471243954

 

[HT413]

would you mind posting a photo of it in the car and providing a list of mounting hardware needed? Reviews online show I will need some NPT fittings and mounting brackets. Any trouble with leaks when you first mounted it?


great info, thanks! Do you have a photo of it in the car?

Sorry man, unfortunately my engine bay is torn apart getting ready for the 451 install, so I can't take photos.

Incidentally, though, I used the mounting kit that came with it and mounted it directly rad. I ran my own hard lines and ran them under the lower rad support, then kept them as far away from the headers as possible. I did have a small leak that I didn't notice at first simply because it only leaked when the line pressure was up.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I ended up ordering the 4707 Tru cool plate type cooler like Threewood shows above. Waiting for it to arrive in the mail.

http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/category/tru-cool-thin.html

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

What size is your radiator? What is the up/down distance from the bottom of the trans cooler to the bottom of the rad? Have you had any overheating issues?

Mine is 22" and I mounted it like yours, but with the trans cooler ports facing up and a 6" distance from bottom of trans cooler to bottom of rad and a 2.5" gap between the two faces. I also bypassed the internal rad trans cooler. Major engine overheating! Running 220F. I need to re-orient things to get more air flow across the radiator.

Here are a few shots of it installed. 1962 Belvedere. I ran the pressure line to the radiator cooler, out to the top of the trans cooler, and bottom line of trans cooler to return port in transmission.

Pass side is mounted with 2 flush head bolts ( I would have welded threaded studs but engine bay was already painted) and I fabbed the other mount from a spare battery tray bracket. Nothing drilled in front, used existing bolt hole.

 

[threewood]

What size is your radiator? What is the up/down distance from the bottom of the trans cooler to the bottom of the rad? Have you had any overheating issues?

Mine is 22" and I mounted it like yours, but with the trans cooler ports facing up and a 6" distance from bottom of trans cooler to bottom of rad and a 2.5" gap between the two faces. I also bypassed the internal rad trans cooler. Major engine overheating! Running 220F. I need to re-orient things to get more air flow across the radiator.

My radiator is the factory 22" as well. When looking from the front, trans cooler is in the bottom left corner. There is 5" of clear radiator above and 14" clear on the right. Cooler is mounted 2 1/2" in front of the radiator. I have mine ran in conjunction with the internal cooler. Line from trans to rad. Radiator out to upper trans cooler port. Line from lower trans cooler to transmission return port.

Stop and go traffic, in 80's temp stays lower to mid range on the factory gauge. Sorry but I don't have an aftermarket coolant or trans temp gauge hooked up. No issues with my setup

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

This gives me hope! Thanks for the quick reply.

So here's what I did differently and need to remedy:

1) External Trans cooler mounted on driver's side instead of passenger side: Not sure if this matters, but my rad hoses are on driver's side...
2) I had bypassed the internal rad cooler. I will hook back up in series as you have outlined.
3) External trans cooler mounted with both ports facing up. I will now mount with ports sideways.

 

[threewood]

Sounds like a good outline of remedies. Sorry you are having issues. I went in conjunction with the radiator internal cooler because that is what was most recommended to do. Makes sense to cool it twice. I don't know how much a difference it would make re-orienting the cooler for side in out ports or left/right. I ran it that way for ease of install. I got pretty good at flaring ends with the amount of screw ups too lol. Good luck.

 

[BadBee]

I have a Temp Guage and on a hot day it's at 180, that's with a factory cooler up
front with a 26" radiator

 

[threewood]

Ski, here are some pics since I cannot get them to send via conversation. ..