Trans Leak

[markbob]

I have posted here and other places for help
My 69 coronet 318/904 combo runs well, but the trans leaks
I have had it rebuilt twice
The second shop had it 4 times last year
It would not leak for a few days
I would drive it and park it, and it would be dry for a few days but tge leak woukd always come back
I decided to research the issue snd found my kickdown linkage was not adjusted properly
I did that, and it appeared I had solved my problem
I went to drive it after a week of it being idle and i find this
Anyone have any ideas?

 

[turbine68rt]

Is it coming from the bellhousing area? I'm guessing the front pump seal is relatively new. Have you confirmed the hot level in neutral? Too high and it may vent out of the pump and trail down the bellhousing. Are there other areas that look like it could be originating?

 

[Dipstick]

Have you actually crawled under and tried to find the source of the leak? About a half dozen possible common leak sources.

 

[turbine68rt]

I use a plastic washing machine pan under mine. Big enough to catch whatever may drip, easier to clean than concrete, shallow enough to clear everything, easy to tell exactly what may be leaking.

 

[Hilljack68]

I feel your pain. I had my 904 rebuilt last year, and the daggone thing still leaks. I haven't had time to track it down because it's been in paint prison since shortly after the tranny rebuild. I'll be watching this thread...

 

[TopBanana72]

I had a big leak like that. It would appear when the car sat for a while. It turned out to be the shift shaft seal. That's the round seal that your kickdown lever goes through. It's a PIA to fix. I think mine is starting to leak again. Anyway, pic attached.

 

[65 3 times]

Look at dipstick tube o ring. I learned to use a very little red silicone when I install and let it sit overnight before trying. Agree to check fluid level hot and in neutral. Dave

 

[Xgreasemonkey]

I’ve heard the torque converter can drain back to the pan after sitting idle for long periods, overfilling it causing leaks. I’ve seen crack valves in the cooler line on later years. Not sure if it would apply hear but just an idea.

 

[Don Frelier]

Shift selector seal is the common culprit. But it should have been replaced during a rebuild. It may have been nicked or the shaft has an imperfection. Cooler lines can do this as well.
Clean everything and wipe it dry. Then drive and inspect. Never give up!

 

[dvw]

If fluids coming out of the bell housing the trans needs to be pulled for repair. Any other leaks can be repaired in the car. Clean it of vert well with brake clean and dry completely with compressed air. "Puff" baby power around the dipstick tube, kick down lever, shift lever, cooler line fittings, tail shaft gasket, low band pin, trans mount (there is a access plate above it), the speedo cable and adapter, pressure taps. These are your possible leak points.
Watch for the powder to start wicking up fluid. It may take a few hours, or be very quick. It'll show up. Start at the higher leak points 1st.
Doug

 

[r4sedan]

I feel your pain. Mine in my Challenger was re-sealed before it went to paint. I have it home does same thing I have to check it out.