Trunk seal

[Paul_G]

There are different designs for trunk seals. Any preference on which works better?

This is Steel Rubber sold on Ebay for $67.19

Sold on Ebay for $27.61

On Ebay for $24.10

Ebay for $35

 

[69a100]

I would use the same design that Mama Mopar used for your car. Good Luck

 

[Sahara]

I would use the same design that Mama Mopar used for your car. Good Luck

My original is long gone from my ‘70 Coronet. Which of those would be the one I need?

 

[zyzzyx]

I installed a SofSeal and I couldn't get the deck lid to close. I had to remove it after three weeks
(That was fun!) and I purchased the one from DTM. Worked fine! Detroit Muscle Technologies!

 

[BeepBeepRR]

The last picture is what you need. And a crap load of clothes pins

 

[69bfan]

The trunk seals differ through the years. Later on in the production years, the styles used also changed based on the body style. So to tell you what is the correct seal, we would need to know the year model and body style. For the B-Body applications, it basically breaks down as follows:
62 - One year only.
63 - May 71, "Y" style with a lip. Most of the vendors sell the "Y" style without a lip. It will work fine, but not cosmetically correct.
June 71 - later, Hollow "Y" style without a lip.

At least four to six different manufacturers of the "Y" style without a lip. Not all of them are of the same quality and just because you buy one from the same manufacturer and go back and purchase another one, does not guarantee that it will work as well. Running rubber extrusion can be a hit and miss scenario to get the exact same results each and every time, but has improved with technology.

 

[toolmanmike]

The last picture is what you need. And a crap load of clothes pins

I saw a photo of one of the guys here using potato chip bag clips. They looked like they worked well.

 

[Paul_G]

Okay, now I am curious, I assume it is just glued on using weather strip adhesive. Do the clothes pins or bag clips hold it to the raised lip around the trunk?

 

[moparmarks]

I've done a bunch of them. Here is my gig. I only use 3M black w/s adhesive. Also I take a Scotchbright and rough up the glue surface of the seal so the glue sticks better.

 

[toolmanmike]

Or:

 

[moparmarks]

As stated by 64bfan the seal changed in 71.

 

[dadsbee]

No need for a single clothes line clip. Weather strip yellow contact cement and do a few feet at a time, corners on their own...... and for what it's worth, my OE seal did NOT have a lip.

 

[moparmarks]

I don't like the yellow stuff myself.

 

[dadsbee]

I don't like the yellow stuff myself.

Seemed to keep the factory strip on for 50 years. My paint guy thought he'd do me a favour and "installed" my NOS trunk seal for me. UPSIDE DOWN FFS and thankfully they used some Black weatherstrip glue as almost 6 months later I simply peeled it off. Stuff doesn't stick.

 

[moparmarks]

I can do one in less them 5 minutes. Start on one end and by the time I get back around the the first part is dry. After doing probably 30-40 of them this is what works best for me.

 

[moparmarks]

When I'm dome with the black you'll destroy the seal trying to remove.
Hey but that is why they make chocolate and vanilla.

 

[69bfan]

As Wayne shows, the yellow / golden brown style is the correct style of glue if looking to achieve correctness. During the production process, it was just applied with no extra time spent removing excess runs and the like. You can either use the Permatex style that Wayne pictures or the 3M yellow style is still available through the appliance repair locations. I have not been able to source it through the regular paint and auto body shops.

Most people now want the much cleaner look and go with the black adhesive. It makes for a cleaner look and is a fourth of the price of the 3M yellow style. And since it can be sourced at any auto parts or department store, that makes things much simpler as well.

 

[Nevada dan]

throw that tube of 3M gorilla snot away if you want an easy install that will take only a few minutes and you don't need close pins or clamps , you will be able to close your lid right after, get RUBBER GLUE from WORTH ,it comes in a small can with a brush attached to the lid like the old tire repair glue , this is what they used back then, I put my new seal on last summer I think it took me 5 minutes total and I was closing the lid when I get home after work I'll take some pictures and show you how clean it came out

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

In my experience the factory cutover to the “double-D” profile seal on these cars was mid-’72 production sometime. The reproductions of these seals available now are too tall and too stiff, won’t allow the trunk to close without breaking/bending something, if at all. The ’71 version of the “Y” seal fits correctly on the later models. None of OP’s pics show this seal.

 

[toolmanmike]

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