This relays to a Holley
could be a combination of the (acc. pump discharge nozzles) "squiters" are too small in front
in 'tip in initial throttle'
& accel./pump arm adjt. to zero gap/play or even a lil' pressure on it before activated
or you have a completely wrong acc. pump cam, on the lever all together
For the discharge "squirter" nozzles
if it has a #28, try a #31 squirter in the primaries/front
if it already has a #31, try a #35 squirter nozzle in the primaries squirter (accel. discharge nozzle),
you can also fine tune it with
down leg nozzles, squirters that have
lil' tubes extended out/down,
that will draw a tad more fuel too
the white or brown acc. pump cam/s on the throttle lever is usually best
(or it could also need a tad more initial ignition advance too
that will help, or could correct the AFRs some also, common)
IF & a possible power valve change, is needed
'You really need to use a vacuum gauge' to diagnose it
(if you can run a long hose into the car while driving that may help too, see under a load what it does)
Normally the closest full # on power valve, that under
"1/2 of what vacuum you have",
That is the # stamped on the power valve
example;
if it has '13 #s of vacuum', then go with a 6, if it's a 14.5 go with a 7 (not an 8)
is about right for the Power Valve, it's a good rule of thumb
I wouldn't go with
more than an 8 - 8.5 'almost never/ever',
even if you have 20#s of vacuum...
In my experience it's rare...
Usually
You need to read your plugs
this is a great explanation of what your engine actually wants,
as in timing & fuel
'NGK' plugs are the easiest to read, not required though
good luck
IT'S REALLY HARD, to tune over the -www- or in print
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