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US car tool subframe connectors

Hazzard Lugnut

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Location
West Virginia
I have a 1968 Charger and am about to install subframe connectors .Has anyone used the subframe connectors from US car tool?
Where is the best place to place the jack stands , under the suspension or the frame? Any pictures and info on this process is greatly appreciated.
 
Haven't used them from US Tool, but per most weld in subframe connectors like Hotchkis, Globe West and others directions, they should be welded in with full weight on wheels.
 
I have a 1968 Charger and am about to install subframe connectors .Has anyone used the subframe connectors from US car tool?
Where is the best place to place the jack stands , under the suspension or the frame? Any pictures and info on this process is greatly appreciated.

Yes, I installed their connectors and torque boxes on my 66' Satellite. I used ramps in the front and 3 ton stands under the rearend housing. You will need all the room you can get without obstacles to fit and weld in. passenger sub frame connector.jpgpassenger front torque box.jpgDriver sub connector.jpgDriver rear box.jpg
 
03-24-2012 tailpipes installed.jpgInstalled on 66 Barracuda and not yet installed on 65 Coronet. Used wooden boxes under wheels for height. 2x8 with solid top and center support and handle. picture
 
Well me and my buddy sam did his 68 charger with 2 x 3 square tubing and welded in & where needed we used 1/4 plate cut it to fit.. I did the same for my 66 satellite and its more than i will ever need.
 
I left the rear on the floor and jacked the front up with solid concrete blocks and welded them in with some scrap sheet metal on top of the floor to keep the flames down when the paint burns off. Once I got under the car I could reach one side from the other and barely move around under there I put some wet shop towels on the floor around the rear tires in case sparks fly over there the car tool ones fit but I had to tack one side then jack the other side up to get a balance on the gaps ended up moving it around several times and ending up with a bout an 1/8 to 1/4" gap in some places where the front and rear pan meet there will be a 1/2" square opening that you will have to fill in with bubblegum welding and used a c clamp on the rear to squeeze the gap after I had a few tacks from front to back and it wouldn't be a bad idea to weld the rest of the floor seams while you're there will strengthen more than the connector will. All in all it was easy and painless and doesn't hump the floor
 
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