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Utterly Bummed This Morning....Need some Autobody Advise

If you get the door repaired and it doesn't match the rest of the car, buff the rest of the car with 3m tri cut. It shouldn't be too noticable. If it's Basecoat/Clearcoat, most clear yellows after time. If it's old school acrylic enamel or synthal enamel, and it wasn't cleared, the paint will oxidize. The tri cut will remove a good bit of the oxidation. Then buff with a good wax (Kit, Mothers, or Meguiars). You'll be amazed what the car will look like. If you get the car repainted later on, tell the shop you want waterclear clear coat. Its not waterborne clear, It's as clear as water, and doesn't yellow. My in-violet 71 Satellite Sebring was 3/4 painted by the previous owner. He used omni Basecoat/Clearcoat, and the clear yellowed instintly, changing the color. If he would've used water clear, it would look close to factory in-violet. And yes, I've done bodywork before. Still do my own because I'm that picky.
 
If you get the door repaired and it doesn't match the rest of the car, buff the rest of the car with 3m tri cut. It shouldn't be too noticable. If it's Basecoat/Clearcoat, most clear yellows after time. If it's old school acrylic enamel or synthal enamel, and it wasn't cleared, the paint will oxidize. The tri cut will remove a good bit of the oxidation. Then buff with a good wax (Kit, Mothers, or Meguiars). You'll be amazed what the car will look like. If you get the car repainted later on, tell the shop you want waterclear clear coat. Its not waterborne clear, It's as clear as water, and doesn't yellow. My in-violet 71 Satellite Sebring was 3/4 painted by the previous owner. He used omni Basecoat/Clearcoat, and the clear yellowed instintly, changing the color. If he would've used water clear, it would look close to factory in-violet. And yes, I've done bodywork before. Still do my own because I'm that picky.

Thanks, that's good to hear. The paint on it is a PPG Omni one stage enamel. Before a month ago, that car hadn't been buffed in like 10 years... so last month I used Presta buffing compound on it (recomended as good as 3M by an autobody supply house) and it was amazing how much oxidation had taken place. In comparison, the buffed portions looked much more bright than the lighter oxidized areas. It wouldn't be a major problem if there was just the slightest mismatch, but its good to know that I could repair & paint doors/panels a few at a time without it being so noticeable.
 
If you have a body shop repair the door, and you want to get the car ready for paint this winter to paint the whole thing next spring, primer the car in like PPG 3K. It's a high build, primer, surfacer/sealer. I deal with a company called LKQ. They have their own 3k, but its just as good as PPG or Duponte. It's a neutral tan, spay it on unthinned its a high build, thin it 5% its a primer, thin it 10% its a sealant. Best of all, its not like the old grey primer that you had to hurry up and paint it. I did a fender this summer for my truck, got it how I wanted it, and sealed it, left it set outside. In a few weeks I'll get my other fender ready for paint, and all I have to do is wipe it with Prep-sol, scuff it, wipe it down again, and lay the Dupounte basecoat and LKQ waterclear on it. Atleast that way you can do alittle at a time, spay when its done, so long as the shop's willing to fix it and they use 3k. I'll get the numbers for the stuff and some contact info for LKQ this evening. Hope the wife's not too mad.
 
The 3K is key8828, you'll need the activator for it. The Overall clearcloat is key7101, again, need the activator. Their in Lexington, Kentucky. 800-345-7309. Hope this helps.
 
I decided on a whim this morning that a nice 30min cruise into the office in the Satellite would be an enjoyable thing to do. After warming it up, I backed it out of the garage a little ways into the yard and while still in reverse made a turn and then WHAM! We have several trees in our side yard and one lone japanese maple. Somehow, and I don't know how...I let that little 4" diameter maple get in my blindspot and smacked it on the turn. WHAT A JACKASS!!! Needless to say, I'm a little bummed and mad at myself this morning about what happened. I've only put something like 45 miles on this car since my engine and exhaust improvements, and now this happens! Talk about shifting priorities. I've done minor body work in the past, but haven't tackled anything like this yet, so a little help or advise from any of you with experience would be great. I guess I'm going to need to locate a door?...or is this something that a new door skin would fix (unlikely)?

Don't feel too bad it happens to evryone, sooner or later. I damn near ripped the drivers door right off the old mans car one time backing out of the garage (door open) showin' my brother how it's done while mom and dad were out...ouch, it still hurts.
 
Some good news.... I bought a replacement door this weekend for $200, and oddly enough it was located only 32 miles away from my house! Its pretty rare to find any mopars is this neck of the woods... Most if not nearly all have been crushed many years back. Now the prep work begins...
 
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