valve covers keep leaking after replaced

[pjm8047]

So the new steel vc have been ordered.Went the Home depot today and bought 1/4-20 x 3/4 inch stainless steel bolts from them with bonded sealing washers.I hope these will help seal the v c's. Ill check you guys updated.

New coves are in with sealed washers,cork gaskets with gasket sealer adhesive spray.Gonna start it up next week.ill keep u guys updated on how is looks aka leaks.

 

[69Runner]

That's exactly how I did it, Fel-pro cork gaskets with a 1/8" bead of red RTV on the valve cover side only (to help out with less-than perfect 40-yr old covers). After a good 20 hr cure I took it for a hard run and they appear to be holding. No seepage.

Time will tell how the red RTV holds up to oil, some prefer Ultra black or the Right Stuff for a faster cure.

 

[HT413]

Those torque specs must have been for some long extinct rock hard cork gaskets. Last year I did the same thing - tightened to the torque spec and had my motor bleeding like it was shot in the gut.

 

[69Runner]

You must be right HT413, the combination of cork material and oem valve cover design worked back in the day but so many of us have had problems with vintage covers or aftermarket. It doesn't help that an in-lbs torque wrench is an uncommon tool in many toolboxes, and either the bolts get tightened to 40 ft-lbs or just hand tightened.

I can see the wisdom of using studs and locking nuts as I had initial concerns the 1/4-20 X 3/4" screws might bottom out on the outboard holes, but some test-fitting confirmed they would not.

What did you do to stop the leaks?

 

[HT413]

You must be right HT413, the combination of cork material and oem valve cover design worked back in the day but so many of us have had problems with vintage covers or aftermarket. It doesn't help that an in-lbs torque wrench is an uncommon tool in many toolboxes, and either the bolts get tightened to 40 ft-lbs or just hand tightened.

I can see the wisdom of using studs and locking nuts as I had initial concerns the 1/4-20 X 3/4" screws might bottom out on the outboard holes, but some test-fitting confirmed they would not.

What did you do to stop the leaks?

The only reason I even checked the torque spec was because I had a small recurring leak on one of the valve covers. I was shocked when I saw how right (even given the in-lb, not ft-lb), and as I was tightening 'I knew better' but still went to the spec. Just felt too damn tight, I thought, but then shhh'd myself and kept right on tightening past the point of sanity.

To fix it, I bought some nice old Direct Connection valve covers and picked up some quality rubber coated cork gaskets (fellpro maybe?), rtv'd the gaskets to the valve covers, let them set, then installed them on the motor. I cleaned out the threads in the heads with some brake cleaner, applied some blue loctite and tightened them down 'just right', using my head and ignoring the torque spec. Leaks be gone!

 

[Car Nut]

Where is the best source for factory covers?

AMD, I'm sure a dealer on here will give us a better deal.

 

[ChargerRTguy]

I have a set of powder coated aluminum Mickey Thompson valve covers. Used the Felpro cork gaskets, but did not use any rtv. Used Permatex "Indian Head" shellac to hold the gaskets in place on the covers before setting on the heads. Let everything set up nicely before placing/tightening. I don't recall the pounds recommended for tightening mine down, but 40 pounds seems high. Not had any leaks all summer. -- 74 Charger with 71 440 4bbl --

I
I like your pic..... The Blue Top, I have been there a few times this summer.

 

[pjm8047]

I was told not to use rtv on a cork gasket.Im starting it up tomorrow.We'll see how it goes.
These are the ones i bought.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380224223431?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[pjm8047]

valve cover leak gone!!!Now i have a brake problem.new post coming

 

[pjm8047]

new covers