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Very Stiff Gas Pedal on GTX

1969VAGTX

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As I am getting the GTX on the road, I noticed that the gas pedal is very stiff. We have adjusted the linkage but it still is very stiff. Is this a typical characteristic of dual carb cars? As a side note, is it also normal for the gas pedal to rest off of the linkage? In other words, the pedal itself is not touching the linkage in the floor until I press on it some.

Another side question - how difficult is it (or is it possible) to soften the pedal?
 
Maybe it has too stiff of a return spring? Post a picture.
 
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Is it the pedal itself, independent of the linkage ? Or, is it the linkage during it's travel, as you move it by hand ?
 
isolate the issue...... disconnect the cable/linkage from the carbs......it's one or the other, possibly return springs are too stiff.

For safety's sake, get a good look and understanding of the entire throttle operation
 
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isolate the issue...... disconnect the cable/linkage from the carbs......it's one or the other, possibly return springs are too stiff.

For safety's sake, get a good look and understanding of the entire throttle operation
 
Is the pedal a new reproduction? I got one this past winter and is was very stiff until used a bit. Same thing as you, it wasn't even touching the roller until getting it broke in.
 
If its anything like my charger . It bound up near the pedal at the floor
 
The throttle cable between the carb bracket and pedal may be too tight an angle, or even kinked. Disconnect at carb as suggested above, and try again.
If problem persists, you may need to lube the inner cable, or check the binding with carpet etc inside the car.

It should not be difficult to figure out where the binding or snagging is happening.

Also, with the throttle cable disconnected, try moving the carb throttle lever by hand - not too much that you squirt fuel everywhere.....if it moves easily by hand - work backwards as suggested above until you find the tight spot.
 
This is a Hemi car - right? They seem to just be naturally stiff due to the dual carbs, dual return springs, springs on both sets of primary blades, two secondary blade sets being brought in fast on the progressive linkage, etc. there’s a lot of stuff in motion when both AFBs are being exercised. Also check that the roller on the accelerator pedal is free and travels on the metal plate embedded in the back of the pedal. If the pedal is worn and the roller is traveling on the outer edge of the pedal it can add a lot of drag. It’s definitely a car that you have to deliberately plant you foot in to go.
 
Got the car on the street today. False alarm on the stiff pedal. Turns out the roller had actually fallen off the linkage because the pin was missing. Got it back on and worked much better.

Still got a couple bugs to work out. Either the front brakes are dragging or sticking or something in the trans is acting up. Also discovered the brake switch bracket is bent to the point that it is not contacting the brake lever causing the brakes to stay on all the time and eventually pop the fuse. But it is at least on the road finally.
 
Got the car on the street today. False alarm on the stiff pedal. Turns out the roller had actually fallen off the linkage because the pin was missing. Got it back on and worked much better.

Still got a couple bugs to work out. Either the front brakes are dragging or sticking or something in the trans is acting up. Also discovered the brake switch bracket is bent to the point that it is not contacting the brake lever causing the brakes to stay on all the time and eventually pop the fuse. But it is at least on the road finally.
Transmission may have drained back....a problem quickly solved with a few miles on the clock...providing correct transmission fluid level is observed.

Brakes dragging are (and can be) a symptom of lack of driving the car - especially if the brakes were fine before hand - assuming the paint shop had your car for a while.
 
Transmission may have drained back....a problem quickly solved with a few miles on the clock...providing correct transmission fluid level is observed.

Brakes dragging are (and can be) a symptom of lack of driving the car - especially if the brakes were fine before hand - assuming the paint shop had your car for a while.
Worked on it this morning. Front brakes were adjusted way too tight. The passenger hub was almost to the point of seized up. Freed up both of the front brakes and smoothed things out a lot. Trans still seems a little off, but I suspect this car sat for years with little to no driving. Checked the fluid in the trans and it reads good. So just going to hit the streets with it for awhile to get it "loosened up."
 
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