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Voltage limiter

Skatpak

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Hopefully this will help at least 1 person. This is a post I made on my page about the voltage limiter and what it does if it fails.

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Pretty much SOP to replace the cluster regulator with one of the modern electronic ones when redoing
these cars. They're reasonably priced insurance.
 
I bought a limiter months ago and returned it because I didn't see one on my 67 Charger to replace. Did you just add that to your dash cluster or did you replace the old one?

Attach as in the picture. Power then goes to one of the two other connections.

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Pretty much SOP to replace the cluster regulator with one of the modern electronic ones when redoing
these cars. They're reasonably priced insurance.
Sort of. On "these cars" , the regulator is built into the fuel gauge. A bit more in depth .
 
Sort of. On "these cars" , the regulator is built into the fuel gauge. A bit more in depth .
Naw, I reckon at least from 66-76 they just have blade connectors that push into receptacles in the back of the PC board.
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I wonder what's the benefit of a RTE limiter? I see it says it "slowly switches 12v on and off" but what does that help? Something like this is almost a tenth of the price. I know it doesn't look stock but it won't be seen anyways.


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I wonder what's the benefit of a RTE limiter? I see it says it "slowly switches 12v on and off" but what does that help? Something like this is almost a tenth of the price. I know it doesn't look stock but it won't be seen anyways.

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The RTE limiter is always outputting a constant 5V average, no matter what the input voltage is. Plus is able to shut itself off if the input voltage is too high so your fuel gauge does get fried. Which was the main problem of the old style.
 
The RTE limiter is always outputting a constant 5V average, no matter what the input voltage is. Plus is able to shut itself off if the input voltage is too high so your fuel gauge does get fried. Which was the main problem of the old style.

Yeah, i get that. I probably phrased wrong. What i meant was, what's the benefit of a $60 RTE limiter vs a $7 step down limiter like i posted which is also constant 5v output with over voltage protection. Maybe these cheaper step down regulators weren't available when the RTE's came out i suppose. Thanks
 
Yeah, i get that. I probably phrased wrong. What i meant was, what's the benefit of a $60 RTE limiter vs a $7 step down limiter like i posted which is also constant 5v output with over voltage protection. Maybe these cheaper step down regulators weren't available when the RTE's came out i suppose. Thanks
I would not take the chance on the cheaper ones.
 
The RTE will also put out full voltage initially to get the gauges to move. Since the original voltage limiter was kind of a time proportional on/off signal the gauges have a bunch of averaging built in to compensate so you don't notice the varying power signal.
 
To be fair, I don't think you read which forum this is posted in.
You are correct and I humbly apologize.
I forgot Chargers were certainly different from the rest in those days.
Taking the opportunity to learn something here, though.
 
It's been 11 years since I installed a RTE solid state regulator in my 66 cluster, but If I recall correctly, the factory internal gauge 5 Volt regulator should be disabled as part of the process of installing the RTE regulator. Think the RTE came with instructions on how to do it..
 
It's been 11 years since I installed a RTE solid state regulator in my 66 cluster, but If I recall correctly, the factory internal gauge 5 Volt regulator should be disabled as part of the process of installing the RTE regulator. Think the RTE came with instructions on how to do it..
Yes, it comes with good instructions if one needs them. Also, as you can see from the picture I posted on how to install.
 
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