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Voltage over 15 volts at all times. Stumped, see diagnostic list.

All old wiring not good. But ask any old timer mechanic and mopar wins the difficult to find and fix.
There is nothing uniquely mysterious about the 12-volt electrical systems in these cars if you know what you’re doing. I’ve been wrenching on these cars, and others, professionally, and otherwise, since my time at Chrysler dealers back in seventies. Pretty sure that qualifies myself as one of your “old-timers”, your stated premise is wrong.

As for “old wiring”, the wiring in these cars, if well maintained and not over-exposed to abuse, moisture, or heat, is not going to simply deteriorate over time and fail for no reason at all. Running quite a bit of original wiring in my cars, all of it in perfect working order.
 
There is nothing uniquely mysterious about the 12-volt electrical systems in these cars if you know what you’re doing. I’ve been wrenching on these cars, and others, professionally, and otherwise, since my time at Chrysler dealers back in seventies. Pretty sure that qualifies myself as one of your “old-timers”, your stated premise is wrong.

As for “old wiring”, the wiring in these cars, if well maintained and not over-exposed to abuse, moisture, or heat, is not going to simply deteriorate over time and fail for no reason at all. Running quite a bit of original wiring in my cars, all of it in perfect working order.
My wiring 100 percent original, including the extremely dangerous ammeter. Yet every single thing works perfectly, go figure.
 
A fella was asking about a wiring glitch. All I did was to respond to my similar problem. Lighten up. I have had many mopars that have had no problems with electrics. That was not the question originally put forth.
 
I have seen batteries short out between cells that cause the system to over charge.
Try another battery just to rule it out..
 
First anyone saying the wiring is easy, no wiring is easy when there is a fault that shows 1 symptom but is caused by some things unrelated. I have owned and worked on this car for 35 years. I repaired the dash harness myself 14 years and 10,000 miles ago. Typical online jerk Know-it-alls really clog up a thread.
Turns out, it was a corroded wire in a splice under the dash that no one could see until it was cut. How is that simple? The switch was at fault too and a voltage regulator that went bad to boot.
Chrysler wiring is tough because of the separate voltage regulator, the ridiculous bulkhead connector, wiring at its limits and everything running through the ignition switch.
Not my first rodeo, but honestly no one has seen it all.
All I was looking for was something I could have missed.
 
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Could have missed? I pointed out in post #33, you would be looking for a high resistance connection causing your 1.3 volt voltage drop between the battery post and the voltage regular reference based on information you provided in your first post. Also described how you could isolate the exact location of your high resistance. Pretty common issue with these simple Mopar electrical systems as they age and become abused over the years.

Again, there is nothing uniquely mysterious about the 12-volt electrical systems in these cars if you know what you’re doing.
 
First anyone saying the wiring is easy, no wiring is easy when there is a fault that shows 1 symptom but is caused by some things unrelated. I have owned and worked on this car for 35 years. I repaired the dash harness myself 14 years and 10,000 miles ago. Typical online jerk Know-it-alls really clog up a thread.
Turns out, it was a corroded wire in a splice under the dash that no one could see until it was cut. How is that simple? The switch was at fault too and a voltage regulator that went bad to boot.
Chrysler wiring is tough because of the separate voltage regulator, the ridiculous bulkhead connector, wiring at its limits and everything running through the ignition switch.
Not my first rodeo, but honestly no one has seen it all.
All I was looking for was something I could have missed.
 
My wiring 100 percent original, including the extremely dangerous ammeter. Yet every single thing works perfectly, go figure.
My 67 GTX is the same - all original and works, I do worry about the high 14 volt operation though. It’s been like that through many batteries and voltage regulators. My 66 is the same with everything new.
 
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