Warning: Dealership Rant!

[MarPar]

I have hated with a passion every single start stop feature on a car I have ever driven, except for my RAM. All other start stop features I have had the displeasure to drive start the car by using the starter. There is a noticeable lag once your foot comes off the brake and the car starts to move forward.
But my RAM uses an "Arnold Schwarzenegger" alternator that doubles as a motor. So when you take your foot of the brake the alternator turns the serpentine belt, which also moves the crank and starts the vehicle too. So you move forward while it starts and it really feels quite seamless. As I said, it is the only start stop feature that I haven't hated.

So you have an etorque too?

 

[cr8crshr]

With all these horror stories about Dealerships and service, I often wonder how so many can come to rely upon them for servicing their autos and trucks. First off, I will never buy a new vehicle and instead rely on late-model used or our old rides. Next, why buy the extended warranty when 99% of the time, it will not be honored or only partially for repairs? The mere fact one is forking out say 70 plus K for a vehicle, is just plain nonsense and just pouring good money down the drain. Even the quick Oil Change places are catching on and trying to step the customer up when all they came on for is an oil change. Transmission flush, rear end flush, coolant flush, whatever!!! I had a tech one time when in for an oil change tell me that he wouldn't swipe out my new blades for the old blades as they didn't sell them and therefore no warranty as they didn't come from them. I do use the quick oil change places due to my age and physical limitations as I just cannot do it myself anymore. Whenever I do have some major repairs needed, I have one trusted and reliable auto mechanic that I use and his prices and labor are far better than the rip-off dealerships...cr8crshr/Bill

 

[Hey-O]

I have hated with a passion every single start stop feature on a car I have ever driven, except for my RAM. All other start stop features I have had the displeasure to drive start the car by using the starter. There is a noticeable lag once your foot comes off the brake and the car starts to move forward.
But my RAM uses an "Arnold Schwarzenegger" alternator that doubles as a motor. So when you take your foot of the brake the alternator turns the serpentine belt, which also moves the crank and starts the vehicle too. So you move forward while it starts and it really feels quite seamless. As I said, it is the only start stop feature that I haven't hated.

My 2019 Durango has start stop feature. I can turn it off, but you have to do it every time you start the car. It's the first thing I do after pushing the start button. I don't like it. It takes me back years ago when starting and stopping was a big killer for your engine, that lack of initial oil was the reason they used, not now I guess. I give up.

 

[dadsbee]

Agreed Ulli, my 2018 F150 has the same ****. Standard start for me is.. turn key, hit auto stop start off button, hit traction control off button and drive.

Word to the wise, do NOT follow any of the online ideas of jumpering the auto stop start button. It causes a lot of problems down the line, but a trailer wiring test plug installed, at least on the F150, kills the auto stop start as it doesn't working in "tow mode".

 

[Hey-O]

Agreed Ulli, my 2018 F150 has the same ****. Standard start for me is.. turn key, hit auto stop start off button, hit traction control off button and drive.

Word to the wise, do NOT follow any of the online ideas of jumpering the auto stop start button. It causes a lot of problems down the line, but a trailer wiring test plug installed, at least on the F150, kills the auto stop start as it doesn't working in "tow mode".

I didn't know that, thanks Wayne. I was going to install a hitch when I bought it, but with all the sensitivity in voltage drop on these new vehicles, I thought if it wasn't incorporated from the factory who knows what might happen. Had a friend with a 2004 Dodge truck he bought new and put those halogen lights on it, back in the day. It melted all the wires, at the plugs and was continually sending a signal a light was burnt out. Big mistake.

 

[wahya]

My wife’s 2011 Ford Fiesta ABS, traction control, check engine lights all came on, plus no speedometer. I took it to auto parts store, where they diagnosed it to be a possible wheel speed sensor. So I took it to a local shop, they had it for about 45 minutes and they said they couldn’t fix it, needed to go to the Ford dealer (no charge so far). Ford dealer charges $175 just to look at the car. So after they look at it, they say it needs two wheel sensors, cost is about $700. Ford says that will fix the problem, so I say go ahead. A while later they call and tell me that after test drive, the lights came back on and the car needs a new ABS module, the bill will be about $1500. So I ask if this will solve the problem, woman says yes it will, so go ahead.
A while later, she calls me and says Ford no longer make the part and they can’t locate another and they don’t install used parts. Ok, so I’m coming to get the car, btw what’s the bill? $1500. I tell her I’m coming to get the car and she can expect trouble, because I’m not paying $1500. She tells me wait, she will call me back. She calls me back a bit later and tells me that she met with management and they agreed to knock bill down to 700.
So nobody wants to work on the car, so I decide to work on it myself, while sitting on my mobility scooter, fun. I found a place in Georgia that claims to be able to repair the module and keep the data from the car in place, so it would just be plug and play after the repair. Great, bad thing is two of the torx screws are unreachable, up against the shock tower. I had to take the whole pump assembly out. I send it out and pay extra for a rush order. The place gets the part, open it up and they text me that it is unrepairable . They send it back, no charge except the extra paid for the rush.
So I decided to take a chance on a used module. I get it put in, bleed the lines and I happened to find someone that came out to program the unit. It appears to be working now, knock on wood. Oh, I forgot to mention, the dealership woman said they would be happy to have my car appraised for getting a new car!

 

[Billccm]

My wife’s 2011 Ford Fiesta ABS, traction control, check engine lights all came on, plus no speedometer. I took it to auto parts store, where they diagnosed it to be a possible wheel speed sensor. So I took it to a local shop, they had it for about 45 minutes and they said they couldn’t fix it, needed to go to the Ford dealer (no charge so far). Ford dealer charges $175 just to look at the car. So after they look at it, they say it needs two wheel sensors, cost is about $700. Ford says that will fix the problem, so I say go ahead. A while later they call and tell me that after test drive, the lights came back on and the car needs a new ABS module, the bill will be about $1500. So I ask if this will solve the problem, woman says yes it will, so go ahead.
A while later, she calls me and says Ford no longer make the part and they can’t locate another and they don’t install used parts. Ok, so I’m coming to get the car, btw what’s the bill? $1500. I tell her I’m coming to get the car and she can expect trouble, because I’m not paying $1500. She tells me wait, she will call me back. She calls me back a bit later and tells me that she met with management and they agreed to knock bill down to 700.
So nobody wants to work on the car, so I decide to work on it myself, while sitting on my mobility scooter, fun. I found a place in Georgia that claims to be able to repair the module and keep the data from the car in place, so it would just be plug and play after the repair. Great, bad thing is two of the torx screws are unreachable, up against the shock tower. I had to take the whole pump assembly out. I send it out and pay extra for a rush order. The place gets the part, open it up and they text me that it is unrepairable . They send it back, no charge except the extra paid for the rush.
So I decided to take a chance on a used module. I get it put in, bleed the lines and I happened to find someone that came out to program the unit. It appears to be working now, knock on wood. Oh, I forgot to mention, the dealership woman said they would be happy to have my car appraised for getting a new car!

You are a brave man and glad it worked out for you. Personally when I hear the word "module" that means the car is mechanically totalled. I've had two experiences (Impala and Charger) where module replacement did nothing but drain my bank account.

I've seen multi million dollar mining vehicles scrapped because of (CAN bus) module failures.

Complexity beyond the last space shuttle built was not intended to ever be repaired. It's a great planned obsolescence we all seem to accept.

 

[Kern Dog]

Back before I landed in construction, I had a few different jobs.
In 1985, I tried (and failed) selling new cars. Heck, DAD did it and was successful, maybe I could do it too?
No. I had what you'd call Customer fear.
I was 19 years old. EVERY customer was older than me. I actually respected older people which often ran in conflict of the job.
We had to use negotiating tactics that were outright lies, plain and simple. The customer had a trade in car? We had to tell them it was worth some insulting LOW amount just to bargain to a number that would allow the dealership to then make money on it on the wholesale market.
Can you imagine telling a customer that his 1982 Caprice Classic was worthless as they were trying to buy a new 1985 model?
I couldn't openly lie to customers.
I know, those that are successful in sales can skirt around the "lies" by not dwelling on specifics.
"Last week we took in a similar car as your 1982 Caprice...we gave them XXXX for it. Now yours is in better condition but I wanted you to know the approximate range we are looking at here..."
That just wasn't my style.
What the heck though...I was 19 and barely an adult at that point. We often change a LOT in our 20s.

 

[cr8crshr]

Agreed Ulli, my 2018 F150 has the same ****. Standard start for me is.. turn key, hit auto stop start off button, hit traction control off button and drive.

Word to the wise, do NOT follow any of the online ideas of jumpering the auto stop start button. It causes a lot of problems down the line, but a trailer wiring test plug installed, at least on the F150, kills the auto stop start as it doesn't working in "tow mode".

Auto Stop-Start Button??? No key or key fob??? Too many electrical gadgets to go wrong and muck up a vehicle...cr8crshr/Bill

 

[#41]

My friend with the Midas shop caters to folks with moderate incomes, and in my case, those with older vehicles. He treats people right, and his online ratings reflect what he does. I can't believe how many times he's fabricated a piece to complete a repair for under a hundred bucks, where a dealer would have whacked me for at least a grand for an entire new assembly. It's nice to see a guy who treats customers well have a prosperous business. He started with nothing years ago. He has zero turnover with his mechanics either.

Yea, support your local independent mechanic. They're still out there. They can't do everything due to specialization and but they still do quite a lot. Your friend sounds like a good guy.

Remember the good ol' days when dad used to drop the car off at the corner gas station for light duty repair and tuning? But things are "better" now.

 

[70runner]

My other mopar is a 2021 Ram Rebel with the ecodiesel. I love this truck, particularly the 25mpg. Have always avoided dealership service depts whenever possible. Do all my oil, fuel filter changes. Record the maintenance events on the mopar website tagged to my truck and keep the factory filter receipts. Had to take the truck to local Ram service dept for a DEF software update recall, only because Kalifornia required proof of this update to smog the truck. First dealer visit in 15yrs. Previous 2 Tundras were problem free.

There is currently a factory recall for the ecodiesel high pressure fuel pump, basically a design issue. Watching several RAM forums for experience from folks having the HPFP replaced before I subject my truck to a fairly significant engine component replacement by a dealer service dept. Sure enough several have reported having non HPFP issues shortly after the replacement.

 

[HawkRod]

My friend with the Midas shop caters to folks with moderate incomes, and in my case, those with older vehicles. He treats people right, and his online ratings reflect what he does. I can't believe how many times he's fabricated a piece to complete a repair for under a hundred bucks, where a dealer would have whacked me for at least a grand for an entire new assembly. It's nice to see a guy who treats customers well have a prosperous business. He started with nothing years ago. He has zero turnover with his mechanics either.

Yes, there are still a few good ones out there, and it is good to keep those ethical, hard working guys in business. But they are limited as to what they can do when it comes to computers, modules and super specific tools made for the vehicle in question.

So you have an etorque too?

View attachment 1620482

Yes. As I stated, I really don't mind the start stop feature. Having said that, I don't know that the eTorque does jack squat to improve my fuel economy. The MPG on my truck is pretty poor.

My wife’s 2011 Ford Fiesta ABS, traction control, check engine lights all came on, plus no speedometer. I took it to auto parts store, where they diagnosed it to be a possible wheel speed sensor. So I took it to a local shop, they had it for about 45 minutes and they said they couldn’t fix it, needed to go to the Ford dealer (no charge so far). Ford dealer charges $175 just to look at the car. So after they look at it, they say it needs two wheel sensors, cost is about $700. Ford says that will fix the problem, so I say go ahead. A while later they call and tell me that after test drive, the lights came back on and the car needs a new ABS module, the bill will be about $1500. So I ask if this will solve the problem, woman says yes it will, so go ahead.
A while later, she calls me and says Ford no longer make the part and they can’t locate another and they don’t install used parts. Ok, so I’m coming to get the car, btw what’s the bill? $1500. I tell her I’m coming to get the car and she can expect trouble, because I’m not paying $1500. She tells me wait, she will call me back. She calls me back a bit later and tells me that she met with management and they agreed to knock bill down to 700.
So nobody wants to work on the car, so I decide to work on it myself, while sitting on my mobility scooter, fun. I found a place in Georgia that claims to be able to repair the module and keep the data from the car in place, so it would just be plug and play after the repair. Great, bad thing is two of the torx screws are unreachable, up against the shock tower. I had to take the whole pump assembly out. I send it out and pay extra for a rush order. The place gets the part, open it up and they text me that it is unrepairable . They send it back, no charge except the extra paid for the rush.
So I decided to take a chance on a used module. I get it put in, bleed the lines and I happened to find someone that came out to program the unit. It appears to be working now, knock on wood. Oh, I forgot to mention, the dealership woman said they would be happy to have my car appraised for getting a new car!

What kills me is they want almost $200 per hour for their "diagnostic expertise", but when they get it wrong, they expect the customer to keep paying for additional fixes. So far with all my modern cars, I fix things based on a "best guess" approach. I use some logic and internet searches and most often get it right. If I don't, I consider that cost to be "diagnostics" and at least I have eliminated a likely fault.

Record the maintenance events on the mopar website tagged to my truck and keep the factory filter receipts.

I didn't know you could do this. I should go in and record my maintenance then.

 

[JDmac72chrgr]

15 Challenger SXT with Hemi, 6spd, 180 k miles blew motor: Yes, a LITTLE heavy with rt foot!!! NEW EZC motor from Mopar, 2 leaking heater pipes under manifold, cooked intake (back fired), leaking radiator and bad left motor mount; $11000 out the door by mech I've been using for 30 years. Looked at replacing car 1st: 2016 R/T with same gear, 35k miles, $38000!!! Paid 32k for mine in 2016!!!
Home Depot/scrape run & snow & ice vehicle is my late pop's 89 S10, rusty but paid for & still works!!! CHEAP TO REPAIR TOO!!! Gas kills me at 13 mpg though!!!

 

[GTXDAN]

Several years ago while on vacation in the UP my 02 F250 SD 7.3 diesel developed a bad oil leak. Happened all at once when we stopped at a state park to camp with the 5th wheel. Oil was running out of it everywhere. Called the closest dealer (truck was out of warranty but engine had 100,000 mi warranty on it) they said bring it in. I get there and they set me up with a rental loaner to drive back to the campground. That evening they call and say the problem is blown o-rings on the oil line to the injectors on one head. They have the o-rings and will have it going in the morning. I tell them to just change the oil while it's there. The next morning we go to get it and it's all ready and all they charged me for is the oil change. No charge for the loaner either. When we get home I write a nice letter to FORD praising the dealership for getting us out of a pinch.

Forward to 2021 my "18" Ram 2500 diesel the antilock brakes quit working. I take it back to the dealer where I got it and the service manager says we can't work on it. What do you mean you can't work on it. They don't have a diesel qualified tech at the time. But it's the brakes not the engine. Still can't work on the truck because it's diesel. 30 mi away to another dealer where they take it and say they will call when they now what it is, and when they can get it done. I give them my home phone (we still have a home phone) and tell them to leave message if nobody answers. 4 days go by and no call. I call them up and get "it is all done been setting here for 2 days waiting on you to come pick it up". I asked why nobody called, he comes back and says the service manager says she sent me a text 2 days ago it was done. So she sent a text to my home phone. Luckily she wasn't there when I get there to pick it up or she would have looked like an *** in front of everybody when I got through with her.

 

[terrywalker]

My 2015 Shaker Challenger with 5.7 went in to the dealer as the rear camera was acting up. I told them I'm sure the plug in the trunk lid is loose. Simple fix, right. Nope. That evening , the dealer called and said they had good news and bad news. Good news- camera plug was loose. Bad news - the technician damaged the trunk lid trying to take the spoiler off. My question, why remove the spoiler? Service advisors reply - He didn't know how to access the plug. He used a steel pry bar to try to remove the spoiler. The advisor said they could just double back tape the spoiler back on and I would not be able to tell. Umm, no! The trunk lid edge is also damaged. They sent it to the body shop. Cost them $1500. The dealer went to install the taillights in the trunk lid and damaged them. Service Advisor said they weren't responsible. I said - yes you are. New taillights for trunk lid cost them $800. They did a wheel alignment on the car a couple of years ago. The alignment guy forgot to tighten adjustments down. I took it on a trip and it ruined my tires. Cost the dealer $600. I now do my own maintenance on the car. BTW, when my car was at the body shop, I told the dealer I needed a loaner car. I was told they didn't have any. I said I'm driving that Scat Pack Challenger that I see on the lot until I get my car back or I'll be sure the customers hear about their service department. I used the Scat Pack for that week. There's only one Dodge dealership in our town, so...
Terry W.

 

[MarPar]

Yes. As I stated, I really don't mind the start stop feature. Having said that, I don't know that the eTorque does jack squat to improve my fuel economy. The MPG on my truck is pretty poor.

I thought I was the only one with super crappy MPG with the etorque. 14mpg on a good day.

 

[Dennis H]

Posts about Dealers need to have the name included so we can avoid them.

 

[Kern Dog]

15 Challenger SXT with Hemi, 6spd,

How is it possible that you got any Hemi without the car being an R/T or Scat Pack?
Around here, the SXTs were all V6 models.

 

[Chargerjase]

Posts about Dealers need to have the name included so we can avoid them.

I named my BS stealership.

 

[HawkRod]

My 2015 Shaker Challenger with 5.7 went in to the dealer as the rear camera was acting up. I told them I'm sure the plug in the trunk lid is loose. Simple fix, right. Nope. That evening , the dealer called and said they had good news and bad news. Good news- camera plug was loose. Bad news - the technician damaged the trunk lid trying to take the spoiler off. My question, why remove the spoiler? Service advisors reply - He didn't know how to access the plug. He used a steel pry bar to try to remove the spoiler. The advisor said they could just double back tape the spoiler back on and I would not be able to tell. Umm, no! The trunk lid edge is also damaged. They sent it to the body shop. Cost them $1500. The dealer went to install the taillights in the trunk lid and damaged them. Service Advisor said they weren't responsible. I said - yes you are. New taillights for trunk lid cost them $800. They did a wheel alignment on the car a couple of years ago. The alignment guy forgot to tighten adjustments down. I took it on a trip and it ruined my tires. Cost the dealer $600. I now do my own maintenance on the car. BTW, when my car was at the body shop, I told the dealer I needed a loaner car. I was told they didn't have any. I said I'm driving that Scat Pack Challenger that I see on the lot until I get my car back or I'll be sure the customers hear about their service department. I used the Scat Pack for that week. There's only one Dodge dealership in our town, so...
Terry W.

View attachment 1621119

View attachment 1621120

Wow. I would expect more expert work from a junkyard worker, much less a dealership charging $180 an hour and touting their expertise.

I thought I was the only one with super crappy MPG with the etorque. 14mpg on a good day.

Most of my driving is highway, up and back to my father-in-law's place. I get 17ish MPG.
I did get the 3.91 rear and tow package that allows me to tow 13,400 pounds, plus the longer bed and off road package. So there is additional weight and additional gearing in mine that won't be as friendly on the highway, but it still sucks. I hate to say it, but my 2017 Yukon XL with the 6.2 liter engine got 21 MPG on the highway, and that was a big heavy vehicle too.