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Water pump question

Pictures of the rockauto pump next to a more expensive pump. Looks like they are the same except for the impellers. Heck for $20 you can press on a different impeller if you were handy. and most parts are chinesium anyway. View attachment 1868438View attachment 1868442View attachment 1868443
Totally disagree.....do you know what the seal assembly is? What the bearing assembly is? The secret is the impeller design....do you know about water pumps other than a pix? Do you now the performance characteristics of one vs the other? Cost is not a factor in the decision......keeping the engine cool is .....google Flowkooler pumps ......it's all explained........but.....do whatever you want.....
BOB RENTON
 
Totally disagree.....do you know what the seal assembly is? What the bearing assembly is? The secret is the impeller design....do you know about water pumps other than a pix? Do you now the performance characteristics of one vs the other? Cost is not a factor in the decision......keeping the engine cool is .....google Flowkooler pumps ......it's all explained........but.....do whatever you want.....
BOB RENTON
I'm for saving a $ whenever I can. This is my hobby. I don't restore mopars for a living.
I have a couple of cars that I'm working on. And there is much great info here. I appreciate when someone posts something and I save a few bucks. If the pump is junk? I'll install the better one later. I work on my cars for fun. Sincerely, Tony.
 
I'm for saving a $ whenever I can. This is my hobby. I don't restore mopars for a living.
I have a couple of cars that I'm working on. And there is much great info here. I appreciate when someone posts something and I save a few bucks. If the pump is junk? I'll install the better one later. I work on my cars for fun. Sincerely, Tony.
But why spend $$ for a pump, just to have to replace it later? You've saved nothing in $$ but waisted yourtime......surely there is something that provide better performance at a nominal cost..for the labor expended..how about upgrading the ignition system or transmission cooler or suspension parts, or the external lighting or redoing the wiring or sound system. Provide the best, most effective cooling system components and be $$$ ahead.....look down the road........not short term costs.....just my opinion.......
BOB RENTON
 
But why spend $$ for a pump, just to have to replace it later? You've saved nothing in $$ but waisted yourtime......surely there is something that provide better performance at a nominal cost..for the labor expended..how about upgrading the ignition system or transmission cooler or suspension parts, or the external lighting or redoing the wiring or sound system. Provide the best, most effective cooling system components and be $$$ ahead.....look down the road........not short term costs.....just my opinion.......
BOB RENTON
I'm a cheap skate. I can buy 6 rockauto pumps for the price of one flow kooler. Pump and I already have a flow kooler pump. And after seeing the similarity I had to post pictures to help other car enthusiasts on a budget. Sincerely, Tony.
 
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Bob,
You are always asking for 'proof'. Your post #17. Where is the proof that the FK pump 'cools better' & all but eliminates 'cavitation at cruising speeds'. Where is the test data/comparison?
 
Well, I tell you where my personal data came from on the Flowkooler water pump, antifreeze all over my engine bay 2 times in a row. Previous pump was a Milodon. Had a Real Gasket silicone thermostat housing gasket installed, which stopped the constant seepage from the stock housing. I tried everything to stop that leak. Milodon pump started leaking in under a year, so switched to the Flowkooler pump, it moves water, blew the Real Gasket twice. So went to an o-ring thermostat housing, no more problems. Oh, and that aluminum Rock auto wouldn't be stock, so the OP wouldn't be interested in it. Sorry, I'm with Bob on this one.
 
This factory pump moves plenty of coolant. I don't know why all these aftermarket part outfits are trying to make things better than factory when they don't.
20170520_144948-jpg (1).jpg
 
This factory pump moves plenty of coolant. I don't know why all these aftermarket part outfits are trying to make things better than factory when they don't.
View attachment 1868714
Your statement is of a personal nature not actual knowledge.....moves "plenty of coolant" means nothing....how many gallons per minute? It's like saying, how high is up.....
BOB RENTON
 
Bob,
You are always asking for 'proof'. Your post #17. Where is the proof that the FK pump 'cools better' & all but eliminates 'cavitation at cruising speeds'. Where is the test data/comparison?
Go to the FLOWKOOLER (and that's FK to the uneducated) web site and all your questions will be answered. I did....or CALL them ......try it, as an actual learning experience......and when you do, why don't you share your knowledge with/thru documentation rather excerpts from some ancient copyrighted publication (without credit given) of unknown origins. Perhaps, you don't understand the process of fluid dynamics relating to centrifugal pumps. An excellent source of the information is: Goulds Pump Manual....presented simply in a manor that even you could understand...its on line and free...terms like: velocity head, friction head, static head, cavitation, specific gravity of the pumpage, gallons/minute, suction pressure, suction head, etc.,are all explained........or in your "shorthand" termononology........IJDGAFWYS......
BOB RENTON
 
Your statement is of a personal nature not actual knowledge.....moves "plenty of coolant" means nothing....how many gallons per minute? It's like saying, how high is up.....
BOB RENTON

Old school mechanics professor!

Look in the radiator after the thermostat opens. The coolant crossing over the cores is quite substantial. 440 engine never exceeds 200 deg Fahrenheit even in slow, stop and go traffic on a 90 deg day. Normal driving it runs 180-190 deg.

Don't need no stinking engineers degree to figure this out.
 
Old school mechanics professor!

Look in the radiator after the thermostat opens. The coolant crossing over the cores is quite substantial. 440 engine never exceeds 200 deg Fahrenheit even in slow, stop and go traffic on a 90 deg day. Normal driving it runs 180-190 deg.

Don't need no stinking engineers degree to figure this out.
Your term...."quite substantial" is the same as b4: "plenty of coolant".....still means nothing....how many gallons of coolant is being moved? You state temperatures but not volumes or ambient temperatures.....in fact, you're moving heat...in terms of Btu/hr per gallon of coolant at a yet to be determined velocity and pressure... I guess the term: "quite substantial and plenty of coolant" is the same as being a little pregnant or some other similar term........you're telling your audience nothing.....or show us your heat balance/flow calcs.......oh well..........????
BOB RENTON
 
Your term...."quite substantial" is the same as b4: "plenty of coolant".....still means nothing....how many gallons of coolant is being moved? You state temperatures but not volumes or ambient temperatures.....in fact, you're moving heat...in terms of Btu/hr per gallon of coolant at a yet to be determined velocity and pressure... I guess the term: "quite substantial and plenty of coolant" is the same as being a little pregnant or some other similar term........you're telling your audience nothing.....or show us your heat balance/flow calcs.......oh well..........????
BOB RENTON

How long does it take you to fill your car with gas? Do you have a test kit to measure the octane level and test it before pumping it into the tank? Do you have a certified one gallon container to measure the amount of gas that's being pumped so you're not getting ripped off? Bob what I'm saying is you go to extremes when it's not necessary.
 
Bob,
Post #29. 'Manor' is spelt incorrectly in this context, should be 'manner'......
Termononology?
 
How long does it take you to fill your car with gas? Do you have a test kit to measure the octane level and test it before pumping it into the tank? Do you have a certified one gallon container to measure the amount of gas that's being pumped so you're not getting ripped off? Bob what I'm saying is you go to extremes when it's not necessary.
In Illinois, delivered pump volume and octane level is Certified by the State on a bi-weekly basis to be true and accurate....every brand and retailer...no exceptions. Obviously the price/gallon is constantly changing due to oil prices. The length of time to fill/refill the Escalade (35 gallon tank) is determined by remaining amount in the tank...but on average it takes ~ 13 minutes at a delivered volume of approximately 0.5 gallons/minute due to flow limiting pump nozzle to avoid splash back and over filling........I've answered your question....now answer mine.....what does "quite substantial and plenty of coolant" mean?? In terms of volume and velocities....if you don't know how to do the calcs...that's ok....just say so........
BOB RENTON
 
what does "quite substantial and plenty of coolant" mean?? In terms of volume and velocities....if you don't know how to do the calcs...that's ok....just say so........
I don't know and if I did I wouldn't bother because the system is working as intended by the manufacturer.
I like your reply to the fill up question, didn't expect any other. :)
 
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