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What’s his name

texas69bee

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A few years back, there was a guy that was popular on this page for rebuilding break cylinders. He was out of Fort Worth Texas and had some videos on YouTube.
What was his name?
 
No clue, I'm racking my brain & can't remember... sorry
 
A few years back, there was a guy that was popular on this page for rebuilding break cylinders. He was out of Fort Worth Texas and had some videos on YouTube.
What was his name?

This one? Garland is on the east side of Dallas whereas Fort Worth is to the west of Dallas; as you may already know.

Thread 'Brake Booster Rebuild' Brake Booster Rebuild
 
Maybe Ram Man. Don't know if he was a member or lived in Texas. Ram Man had several videos on YouTube. Lately he's been a little :realcrazy:

(Lord I apologize)
 
Maybe Ram Man. Don't know if he was a member or lived in Texas. Ram Man had several videos on YouTube. Lately he's been a little :realcrazy:

(Lord I apologize)
By George, he is in Fort Worth.

Screenshot_20240425-194223~2.png
 
Ram Man started offering disc brake conversions for older trucks(for the rear) and he bit off a lot more then he could chew, and from what I could tell didn't handle the pressure very well, or the type of comments a youtube video open to the public will generate.......
 
Well you guys figured it out for me.
It was the RamMan.
He did rebuild a master cylinder for me.
Here’s what I’ve got going on.
Everything felt right with the brakes for a while even after the front disk brake conversion.
Now when applying brake pressure the brakes seem soft. Let up and apply pressure again then the brake pressure seems normal.
There is no fluid leaking.
What would cause the pedal to fade?
Is there a seal in the master cylinder that could go bad in 6 years that would cause this?
It’s on a 69 Bee, not power brakes with a stock proportioning valve.
 
MC's can just go bad too...

if it's been rebuilt already, it may need to be replaced altogether,
especially if it had any rusting or pits/pitting in the bore of it
especially, last refurbish/rebuild

maybe try a smaller diameter (like 15/16") if it's a manual disc brake car
some think a bigger diameter MC is better, not for manual brake usually
try Dr.Diff.com
or ManciniRacing.com

good luck
 
MC's can just go bad too...

if it's been rebuilt already, it may need to be replaced altogether,
especially if it had any rusting or pits/pitting in the bore of it
especially, last refurbish/rebuild

maybe try a smaller diameter (like 15/16") if it's a manual disc brake car
some think a bigger diameter MC is better, not for manual brake usually
try Dr.Diff.com
or ManciniRacing.com

good luck
THANK YOU
 
Well you guys figured it out for me.
It was the RamMan.
He did rebuild a master cylinder for me.
Here’s what I’ve got going on.
Everything felt right with the brakes for a while even after the front disk brake conversion.
Now when applying brake pressure the brakes seem soft. Let up and apply pressure again then the brake pressure seems normal.
There is no fluid leaking.
What would cause the pedal to fade?
Is there a seal in the master cylinder that could go bad in 6 years that would cause this?
It’s on a 69 Bee, not power brakes with a stock proportioning valve.

How's the rear shoes adjusted? If they aren't just barely touching the drum, when you double pump your pedal it takes up the slack and gives you a normal pedal.

The way I'll check a master cylinder is to pump the pedal several times and hold it real tight. You're feeling for the pedal to start dropping. Do this again and while holding the pedal tight, ever so lightly let off still holding pressure on it and see if it creeps down.

One visual check is to get under the dash and pull the master cylinder boot back a little and check for fluid.
 
How's the rear shoes adjusted? If they aren't just barely touching the drum, when you double pump your pedal it takes up the slack and gives you a normal pedal.

The way I'll check a master cylinder is to pump the pedal several times and hold it real tight. You're feeling for the pedal to start dropping. Do this again and while holding the pedal tight, ever so lightly let off still holding pressure on it and see if it creeps down.

One visual check is to get under the dash and pull the master cylinder boot back a little and check for fluid.
Thank you, I’ll give all this a try
 
Just my opinion of course, but I wouldn't do any business with The Ram Man.....
 
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