Who has an oil pan that does NOT leak ???

[Kern Dog]

I am getting just as tired of a leaky oil pan as I am hearing people say "They all do that." 440 based 493, currently with a 6 quart pan.
What the heck, man ?? I have had a few different pans on the car, different bolts, used no washers, flat washers, lock washers...I have always used the Mopar Performance windage tray & gasket sandwich: 2 gaskets and steel tray. I don't officially "torque" the oil pan bolts but do tighten them just until the gaskets squish a bit, just like I've done with every other engine. This one weeps oil though, especially after I've been out romping on it. I do have a working PCV in it.The rear main is dry, The left side too. I checked the screw in plug under the fuel pump and it is dry there. I get oil dripping off of some bolts but not others. I have always installed the bolts in dry, no sealant.
I have heard of some drastic measures....Ever heard of "The Right Stuff" ?? I have never used it but I hear that it is some super sealing cement-like gasket sealer. That would be great if I never planned on removing the pan again. I've read that it sets up so hard that stamped steel stuff like valve covers, timing covers and oil pans get bent when you try to remove them later.
Is there a better way to go? I want to retain some type of windage tray. I did buy one of those plastic windage trays from Jeg's, the self sealing ones that are similar to those plastic transmission pan gaskets. What has been your experience with them? Good?
Finally....I have always used a high volume oil pump in my engines. Some claim it is overkill and costs power, that the stock pump puts out enough volume and pressure. What is your opinion on this?
Thank you for any help that you can give.

 

[OH71RRunner]

You might be asking for too much for no leaks or drips. Lol

The right stuff is any amazing sealer/ gasket maker. I use it for lots of stuff.... thermostat housing, valley pan, water pump, and valve cover on my old truck and another car. I've used it in a pinch on a gas tank to patch a seam.
You'd be surprised what applications it will work for.

 

[moparedtn]

Watching this thread as well. The last several 440's I've had (from various sources, both rebuilt and original) all have had oil pan leaks, too.
Just like KD, I've put my favorite MP windage tray/gasket sandwich on all of them and have tried various fasteners.
The current engine in my car leaks also, so I've done the pan bolt snugging routine a few times now.
Couldn't figure out where the oil was coming from even using the Brakleen method until we had it on a lift for the transmission swap.
The mechanic hoses it all down with Brakleen again and we check back on it next time we had a break from what we were working on -
and the leak magically appeared, seemingly out of nowhere.

Come to find out, the pan itself has a handful of pinhole leaks in it.
Oh, that ain't good. Time to start shopping for another pan, which I get to swap out with the engine in the car.
Wonderful.

 

[vintage chromoly]

No leaks here.
The key is to straighten the pan rails and use just a light coating of sealer on both sides of the gasket.

The right stuff is great too.

As of present, I don't have any leaks from anywhere

 

[Kern Dog]

The oil pan was bought new and appeared straight when I installed it. I might try that one piece plastic windage tray/gasket since I already have it and the car is due for an oil change anyway.

 

[moparedtn]

The oil pan was bought new and appeared straight when I installed it. I might try that one piece plastic windage tray/gasket since I already have it and the car is due for an oil change anyway.

Are you going to have to jack up the engine any to get clearance to get that on?
Yeah, I know on mine each time I checked the pans with the straight edge and all that jazz. I also run the factory PCV and a breather on the opposite valve cover.
Ironically, never had a rear main seal leak or under the front cover...

 

[kiwigtx]

@Kern Dog - I use this stuff on my sump Greg....it works well....no leaks, and the gasket can be removed unlike other sealants. I would not reuse the gasket, but it easily comes off if it ever needs to.
Brown and sticky stuff - apply to both surfaces like a glue, wait for about 15 minutes, then stick to the sump etc.

While on the subject of leaks - for valve covers I use the FelPro cork gaskets. I use a high quality gasket glue and position the gasket on the covers. Then I screw the covers to a flat sheet of wood for the gasket to adhere. After a day the cover can then be fitted to the engine. That way, the gasket doesn't slide around when trying to fit over the rocker gear etc. Makes for an easier installation.

 

[65-440]

No leaks here either... steel pan, windage tray and 2 gaskets ... I brush on aviation form a gasket onto the rail on the block, oil pan rail then stick the gaskets to both the block and one to the pan. Then brush on that stuff to both gasket surfaces that will be facing the windage tray and put the pan up ..... all dry ! Bolts tightened good-n-tight !

 

[moparedtn]

I wonder what the factory used, out of curiosity - and did these things leak often new?

 

[747mopar]

I'm using the one piece plastic tray with built in rubber gaskets from Summit (likely same manufacture as yours) and trust me they have their own problems. Most pans have dimples stamped in them right where the rubber is supposed to seal so you either need a pan with a flat sealing surface or fill the dimples flush. Second problem is the rear main seal area isn't always 100% perfect so you add a little RTV to ensure a good seal which results in the RTV ripping the rubber seal out of the tray next time you remove it. I can't tell you how to 100% fix it because mine after a couple tries has developed another small leak lol. The #1 thing I'd suggest is thourouly cleaning it all up then inspect often to find out exactly where it's coming from so your sure it's the gasket and not the rear main seal block as I suspect mine is. When using cork gaskets I like using contact cement type sealants, cork likes to squish so the cement will keep it in place. I've always had great luck using Permetex #2 as well but so far I'm still trying to fix mine...

 

[Darter6]

Confucius Say = "IT AIN'T A MOPAR IF IT DON'T LEAK."

 

[ksurfer2]

How well does the glow in the dark additive work when trying to located a leak in your oil pan? Has any one had any success with it?

 

[451Mopar]

The '69 Coronet Convertible has the Jegs plastic type windage tray / gasket and the Mopar 6-Quart "Hemi" oil pan. It sealed up good, very dry under the engine. I do use blue loctite on the pan bolts so they don't come loose.
I have to fix the oil pan leak on the '71 Charger. The rear oil pan rail is messed up, looks like I wedged a wrench on it when installing the torque converter bolts? I just don't recall when, the oil pan is 25 years old and been on and off the engine several times.

 

[Bill Monk]

I use these gaskets, no leaks
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1834/overview/make/plymouth

 

[Billccm]

I'm watching, too.
Are you sure the timing chain cover is not seeping?
That's where my oil leaks, yet it looks like a pan leak.
I like the felpro blue gasket.

 

[6t4polara]

Found a spreader kit on line and seems to have done the job.

 

[65-440]

How well does the glow in the dark additive work when trying to located a leak in your oil pan? Has any one had any success with it?

If you're referring the UV leak detection dye, it works great if you have the proper light o go with it. That' how I found my rear main seal leak a while back. Thought it was my oil pan, but gasket change didn't fix it. Never had any oil inside the trans bellhousing, like you would think. In went the UV dye, took a lenghty drive, pulled the inspection cover and looked with the light and could see drips on the rear of the crank just outside of the oil seal..... new seal went it and all is good now.

 

[Ranger16]

When I replaced my cam, the right side valve cover simply would not seal. The only thing that sealed it was a light bead of RTV on both sides of the gasket. I see no reason that would not work on the pan as well.

 

[65wgn440]

Standard type windage tray with Ultra Copper sealant correctly applied to both sides of both gaskets, along with carefully prepared oil pan rail (I use a small ball peen hammer placed directly on the bolt holes and tap it with another hammer to take down high spots from over tightening), has worked well for me.

 

[66383]

The next time you have your pan off, turn off all the lights and close the garage door-doors, Inspect the pan with a hi-intensity LED flashlight or the like. I did this and found a rust hole no bigger than the point of a needle, bought new pan...problems over.