Will my block hold up with my build?

[Heimedw]

Guys building a 512 from a 400. The block is a 76. I'm hoping for around 600hp and was wondering if going with studs with stock caps in enough? Or should I consider billet caps? I'm not going to run a girdle. Thanks for any input

 

[NOSTRT980]

billet caps, my 2 cents

 

[wyrmrider]

if you are going to aftermarket caps and studs you can run the short girdle with the same amount of machine work
detonation will break anything combustion chamber/ piston compatibility and tight quench work

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Keep the tune detonation-free, meaning, watch your total timing / octane / engine operating temperatures / static & dynamic CR and you'll be fine. Investing in a wideband 02 sensor (better yet, EFI) is essential. Lots of blame placed on poor-quality parts rather than a poor tune.

 

[IQ52]

If you set it up correctly you should be fine. Our pump gas 451 used various configurations of cams and cylinder heads and went from 621 HP to 654 HP to 670 HP and then jumped to 787 HP, back to 694 HP. Now at 580 HP it's in the shop truck. All on studs and stock main caps.

 

[moper]

A customers 383/496 is fine with simple main studs and high quality machine work. It's making 580+ based on weight and mph, has 20K on it.

 

[Heimedw]

Sounds like I won't have any problems and if I get billet caps it will just be a added insurance.

 

[biomedtechguy]

If you set it up correctly you should be fine. Our pump gas 451 used various configurations of cams and cylinder heads and went from 621 HP to 654 HP to 670 HP and then jumped to 787 HP, back to 694 HP. Now at 580 HP it's in the shop truck. All on studs and stock main caps.

Another IQ52 build....

 

[andyf]

Billet caps add a bunch of hassle to the build. Check with your machine shop to see if they are willing to do that work. It isn't any fun getting them fitted and line bored. I did one engine with billet caps a long time ago and then decided it was a waste of time. All of my race engines since then have been stock caps with ARP studs. I've busted a few blocks but never the caps. The blocks tend to break between the mains and the cam. I don't think billet caps or a girdle are necessary on a BB Mopar but that is just my opinion. If you're breaking stock blocks then get an aftermarket block.

 

[moper]

^^
What he said. Girdles are a means to satisfy a panic - not a recurring problem. Every high-powered big block will eventually split between the upper main saddles and the cam bore. It's not an "if", but a "when". If you feel you need caps or a girdle, you need a better block. Spend on great machine work, maybe run aluminum rods if there's enough reason, and you will do far more than any caps or girdle or a combination of the two.

 

[Heimedw]

Great advice guys thanks. I got the 400 block just for that reason. If I crack it I'm out $350 and didn't destroy my original 383 block.

 

[wyrmrider]

light rods and pistons
center counterweights BF girdle
I've blown out blocks with and without full girdles- the kind that go down and catch the pan rails-not worth it, tried cross bolting
now supply of better blocks is tough and making power is much easier with today's heads- those with relocated plugs like the 361-413 truck heads work best- Chrysler new how to do it - why did they not?
in addition to combustion chamber what sweet said about the tune with proper combustion chamber you should not have to run nearly as much advance
also watch your overlap- later exhaust open and earlier close works no matter what duration for your rpm range you are running
cuts down on exhaust heat which is also a sign of impending detonation